jpmurphy99

I had the same issue with some Konis that I purchased in February. It took me some time to figure out what was going on and I'm only now getting around to correct the issue because the adjustment tool wouldn't work (as you suggested) after forcing the dust covers on. The rears didn't have this issue. I'm actually getting the Konis replaced as well b/c they won't adjust even off the car. I'm sure the shocks will be fine when I finally get a pair that will adjust and get them installed correctly, but I'm not terribly thrilled with my Koni experience. If I had to do it again, I'd buy the Boge. It's hard to beat OEM if you want to avoid issues like these.

Hilton

Interesting that you had the same problem. Good to know my thread turned up in a search about it too, it means I managed to include the right keywords

If you still have the koni's around before sending them back, can you measure the rod thickness below the stepped shoulder? I'm guessing it'll be the same 15.1mm as mine, and that Koni are using a beefier shock rod on their 928 shocks now.

My modification to the plastic dust cover hasn't resulted in any suspension noise, cracking of the plastic dust cover etc.

I've yet to try adjusting the suspension on the car; I've been pretty happy with how it feels compared to the old stock Boges, and have been too busy with my other car to do much other than the odd drive in my '89 - but I'm sure that the rods will have no trouble coming up through the plastic cover, based on how easy it was to assemble once I'd bored the porsche cover out slightly to fit the larger Koni rod. I did adjust the suspension both ways on each shock and test against its brethren, so my adjusters work.

Based on how the car feels, I'm pretty happy with the Koni/Eibach combination. I do have some Bilsteins to fit to one of my 87's, so I'll get a direct comparison later this year.

finally!

I would suggest if possible to use a hole saw instead of a drill bit, wont walk the hole or bind...

jpmurphy99

I'll measure them but I'm sure you're right. I do find it odd that the rears don't have the same issue. I'm guessing the change in thickness is somehow saving Koni a few pennies.

Vilhuer

I had same problem while back. Those used Koni's were in so bad condition that adjustment would have been useless anyway. New ones are going in and issue can be fixed at same time.

fraggle

I still love my externally adjustable set. Once you've got the option of adjustments and take advantage of it, you won't go back!

michaelathome

Just went thru this on my 89. 5/8in worked like a charm. My dust covers were stock.

Michael

Hilton

Seeing this bumped reminds me.

As a follow-up, I've adjusted the internal adjusters on my shocks and had *no* trouble with the shock rod coming back up through the slightly modified dust covers.

Landseer

Thanks for this thread. It saved me a lot of time.

Just ran into the exact same issue trying to install a set of red Koni shocks bought during Roger's special last spring.

The plastic dust cover had be drilled-out just like yours in order to fit over the Koni rod.

I had the added issue of Koni shock body being significantly smaller in dia than the Boge it was replacing.
That means the adjuster sleeve from the Boge won't bite into the shock--- so lets hope my guessed preadjustment is good enough.

So, Koni rod has excessive dia. for the plastic dust cover.

And Koni shock body is too small dia. for the inner adjuster sleeve.

PITA. But thank goodness I found this thread to help clarify the situation.

BTW, these are adjustable shocks. To adjust them you must put the rod in a vice, compress the shock fully, and turn the shock body counterclockwise (left) until it stops. That is the loose setting. Repeating, turning right, increases the dampening. (there are no buttons to push, no allen screw to turn on this version of the shock)

Jadz928

Landseer, I can send you my koni adjustment tool.

Landseer

How does it work?

(I think these are a totally different version of the shock that doesn't require the tool -- the compressed rod itself is the tool.)

Jadz928

^^^ my tool is for internal adjustment. Long tool w/hex key at end. Drive down inside shock tube, engage and turn.

Landseer

Must be for a different version of the shock.

Thanks for offering!

Hilton

Chris, the adjustment type you're talking about sounds like the internal adjustment I have. Compressing the shock rod down engages the adjustment gear inside the shock body, and with it compressed, you can adjust the shock compression.

The tool Jim is talking about is basically an allen key head on a really long shaft. To adjust the shocks on the car, you undo the top nut on the shock rod, and push the shaft all the way down through the spring/perches until the shock is completely compressed.

I'll go find a pic of the tool.

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/shocktool.php

My internally-adjustable Koni's have a small hex-key-shaped hole about 5mm deep on the very top of the shock rod.

Landseer

I thought the shaft hex was just for holding the rod stationary when tightening the upper mount nut.

It all makes sense now! Thank you!

I've set the fronts (installed only one so far) at "1 turn towards firm" using the vice method.


Jim, may want to borrow the tool in the future, after the TB/WP job. Laurel put 40K miles on this red 86 car since 2008, time for a new belt.