I have a 85 5sp that will not crank. All lights, windows, gauges work and battery is three months old and at 12.26 v. I had been working on a window wiring issue and had to unbolt fuss panel as well as change window switches in console.
Would any on this caused a start or ignition issue?

Thanks, Ken

 

Does it not crank at all??

I would suggest to start measuring at the iginition switch, measure at the starter and go from there.

I dont know if a 5speed also has a switch linked to brake or clutch pedal (like auto which has a switch to prevent start in any other gear than P or N).

cheers.

 

Thanks, the starter will not engage. Based on owners manual, no prevent on 5sp for starter. I have also used jumper on relay with same result.

 

Go back to the fuse panel. You did something that's causing all this. Have you tried jumping the starter from the battery?

 

Verify that none of the plugs came undone.

If you have jumpered the starter relay and the car didnt crank the problem is not the ign switch it is wiring or starter.

 

look along the bottom of the CE panel for one or more of the individual wire connectors being pushed out of the connector housings.
this happens when the connector isnt put on at an angle and the male pins on the CE panel get behind the individual connector and bend the locking tab that holds them into the connector, then they slide out enough to not make contact

 

Thanks for the help. I have looked at the panel and the connectors. The wiring diagram points to the "A" & "W" plugs, but I could see nothing wrong there. I pulled each one out and everything looked OK. Any idea what wire could cause the issue?

 

Do these checks in the order given.

Check for power on the yellow wire in Q13 when you turn the key to the START position.

Plug Q
Terminals are arranged:
15 25
14 24
13 23
12 22
11 21

If there is power here in START, the problem is probably:
- The yellow wire in the fourteen-pin connector near the jump start terminal on the right fender.
- The starter solenoid.
- The starter brushes - if the solenoid goes CLACK, the brushes are likely to be the problem.
- The yellow wire somewhere between Q13 and the starter.

If there is no power on Q13 in START, repeat the test on the yellow wire in A23.

If there is power on A23 in START, the problem is likely to be a faulty connection in the Start Relay socket - Relay XIV.

If there is no power on A23 in START, the problem is likely to be in the ignition switch. Reach up under and make sure the electrical switch is firmly on the lock. It is possible for the link between the lock and the electrical switch to wear enough so that the switch is not turned enough to make the start contact.

 

You need to make a jumper (I use a momentary toggle switch , some wire, 2 female and 2 male spade connectors.).


Pull relay XIV (or the jumper that is there), plug the jumper switch
between terminals 30 and 87. Turn the ignition switch on, get the car ready
to crank (in neutral) and use the switch on the jumper to activate the starter.

This will work if the starter is not functioning when you turn the ignition switch to start (Failing switch).

 

12.25v is too low for the battery at rest - this means its significantly discharged....

Explain more.. what happens when you turn the key? nothing? do all the dash lights dim?, does the starter relay click?

Saying only that it doesn't crank isn't really that helpful...

Taking the CE panel out shouldn't cause problems - but what did you do to it...presumably you did something? did you reconnect the grounds... swap any relays... anything...?

Alan

 

Got it running - Thanks for all your help. Wally got it right where the yellow wire in the fourteen pin connector in the front fender had popped up slightly. I appreciate all the responses and help!