If your old ignition key worked on the hatch, you can easily pull the hatch lock and play around to see which tumblers are not falling into place and tweak the key (maybe). If you had a separate key for your hatch, this will not work.

 

The previous key worked the hatch and ignition. I just spent a good hour on the key, in and out and turning tryingto get some improvements. I was able to get the locks to turn a little right and left. At first there was no movement. So some progress. The key does open and lock the glovebox.

Andrew how would I get the hatch lock out and try to fix this? I also have no clue how to try to fix the key by looking at the tumblers? Any idea? Thanks guy's

 

Do you have an electric hatch release that works? If so, the top portion of the lock mechanism is held in by two SHCS ( allen head bolts )

 

Well, the information on how to dig into these and fix them is here via search.

My advice to you is not jimmy the key around in any more locks.

It doesn't work and it won't if it hasn't by now. You are going to damage the tumblers, trust me, and then they will at minimum need to be disassembled and cleaned-up with fine black sandpaper to work again.

Let me give you a couple pictures to help you understand what's going on inside the ignition lock.

#1 This shows the tumblers extended because key is removed. If the lock were in its shroud, the tumblers would be in channels that prevent rotational movement.

#2 I mentioned rotational barriers. You can see the channels a bit down through this picture, but also, for the ignition lock only, there is a withdraw barrier.

#3 This is for spacial reference. The ignition lock cylinder is held into the steering column assy. by a single pin that Roger has spoken about prying out. I had to drill mine, here I am threading a new retaining screw for the entire lock.

#4 shows the little pin that retains the tumbler set inside the shroud.

#5 Shows YOUR situation. Key is in, but its a key that is close, but wrong. So, some/all of the little tumblers have not fully retracted. They hang-up on the rotational barrier channels. Some movement, generating some wear if you are aggressive, both in the channels and below the surface as the steel key can put burrs on inner edges of the little tumblers.




The lock itself has its own little retaining pin, also, to keep the tumbler section well trapped inside the shroud. (door locks are different, no tumbler barrier)

 

Awesome pic's. I have ordered a ignition and key from Roger! Looks like I am at a stand still.

Fabio, no electric release. Thanks though.

 

Replacement of the ign. lock is best not done at the store if you can help it. You will need to remove your steering wheel and instrument pod so that you can easily access the lock mechanism. You will need to gring off part of the boss that surrounds the pin that holds the lock in place. Then grab the pin and pull it out with some needle nose pliers. There are some good write ups here if you search. I am working now so I can't do it. If I get time later I'll try to find one for you.

 

...and I thought I was the only one to lose my key...

 

I would suggest that you cal 928INTL and buy a used set of matching locks for the car,
it will be quicker and less expensive in the long run to just swap them out and have a set of keys that all match.

In the meantime you need to figure out if you have an alarm key or not,
if the key is shorter then you dont have the alarm version this will be less expensive to replace as well as the gas cap the gas caps were made with either a short or longer barrel so you need the correct cap as well

 

When I ordered a new key from Porsche several years ago, the cut was so foo-barred that a monkey could have done a better job. It was very obvious that there was no way this key was fitting anything.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

 

I have two keys from Porsche hanging on my bulletin board. They look good but don't work anything. They (Porsche... not the keys) gave me some line of BS and I bit... hook line and sinker. I went away (as I suspect they wanted). I now have second thoughts after reading these posts. Anyway, they more or less blamed the locks as being worn or changed, or the stars weren't lined up, or yada yada yada..., but it was impossible that it was they, Porsche, that cut the keys wrong. Maybe once, but certainly not twice.

The good guys at Balport Lock and Key in Newport Beach (CA) fixed me up with a new key for $100.00 in only one day after I dropped off the lock. One for the local locksmith, zero for Porsche on this one.

 

In case anyone looks this up in the future. Stuart at keys4vlassics.com in Australia can cut a key for you from a high quality photo. Don't recall what he charges, but it was reasonable.

 

AO IIRC I looked into this,
it was 45.00 plus shipping possibly close to 60.00 all in for a key sent via airmail the USA

 

That sounds about right. Not bad considering the alternative...

 

Yep.. plenty of reports here on rennlist. Takes about a week from emailing a photo to the key turning up in the USA I believe.

They also carry the original Huf steel blanks (more $) which fit the Porsche key-head with light in it (you can buy new key heads from your favourite porsche part supplier).

 

Never discard locks, whether you have the key or not.

All can be disassembled without the correct key (including ignition lock w/tumbler barrier)

All can be rekeyed, and alarm section removed if desired.

And the parts are interchangeable.