Leaking manual gearbox! Help needed......
09-03-2010, 03:46 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Leaking manual gearbox! Help needed......
Hi!
My gearbox is leaking oil and in one week I´m supposed to drive at Nurburgring!!
The leakage is in the front of the gearbox. Its when I´m on the track, during braking and shifting down that a big cloud of oil comes out at the back of the car. Not to popular among the other racers!
Its messy under the car and mostly on the drivers side. So what to do now?? Cancel the trip or try to solve the problem. To me it seems to be somewhere on the top of the box cause it doesnt leak at all in normal driving or standing still. Anyone now if there is a frequent problem with leaking gearboxes and if so where does it leak?
I can get all the gaskets and sealings by expressfreight from Germany on wednesday or thursday.
How many working hours will it be to take out and putting the gearbox in again?
Thankful for any help!
My gearbox is leaking oil and in one week I´m supposed to drive at Nurburgring!!
The leakage is in the front of the gearbox. Its when I´m on the track, during braking and shifting down that a big cloud of oil comes out at the back of the car. Not to popular among the other racers!
Its messy under the car and mostly on the drivers side. So what to do now?? Cancel the trip or try to solve the problem. To me it seems to be somewhere on the top of the box cause it doesnt leak at all in normal driving or standing still. Anyone now if there is a frequent problem with leaking gearboxes and if so where does it leak?
I can get all the gaskets and sealings by expressfreight from Germany on wednesday or thursday.
How many working hours will it be to take out and putting the gearbox in again?
Thankful for any help!
09-03-2010, 05:04 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
How did you get the car matte black?
09-03-2010, 06:41 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
09-03-2010, 06:53 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Yes, I've worked on 2 this month and both leaked significantly from the top.
Mine are 1984s, they are probably different than your 1990. Repair tme depends on your skills and tools and support. . Maybe you can lower the cross member just enough with transmission attached to reach critical points on the box. I don't know. Others familiar with S4/GT arrangement and clutch should suggest the sequence.
There may be reverse switch that is broken and leaking, also, take a hard look. Also front seal where shifter rod enters box. Good pictures will help the other good mechanics here give you ideas.
Mine are 1984s, they are probably different than your 1990. Repair tme depends on your skills and tools and support. . Maybe you can lower the cross member just enough with transmission attached to reach critical points on the box. I don't know. Others familiar with S4/GT arrangement and clutch should suggest the sequence.
There may be reverse switch that is broken and leaking, also, take a hard look. Also front seal where shifter rod enters box. Good pictures will help the other good mechanics here give you ideas.
09-03-2010, 07:14 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
09-03-2010, 07:40 PM
#12
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I sure wouldn't put anything in the tranny except gear oil. Can't imagine what any sort of stop leak would do to the friction plates in the PSD.
I haven't thought this all the way thru, but how about this:
If you can put the car high up on jackstands or a 2 post lift, you might be able to:
1. Undo the top of the rear shocks, and the swaybar links.
1a. Drop the exhaust from the cat back, and remove the resonator heat shields
2. Remove the 6 bolts holding the front mounts of the rear control arms,
3. Remove the inner rear crossmember to body bolts (M12 x 45
4. Remove the air cleaner box
5. Get a pair of M10 x 130 bolts from a hardware store.
6. Replace two (1 on each side...) of the outer rear crossmember bolts (M10x75) with the M10x130 bolts, thread them in part way.
7. Support the whole rear crossmember/tranny with a floor jack
8. Remove the other 2 outer rear crossmember bolts
9. You ought to be able to lower the whole thing nearly 2 inches until it's resting on the longer M10 bolts. Might have to undo the PSD line, the e-brake brackets, etc. But this would give you better access to tighten the cover and/or reseal the top and replace the breather. Make sure the breather's pointing in the right direction (forward and 45o to the right (?))
I haven't thought this all the way thru, but how about this:
If you can put the car high up on jackstands or a 2 post lift, you might be able to:
1. Undo the top of the rear shocks, and the swaybar links.
1a. Drop the exhaust from the cat back, and remove the resonator heat shields
2. Remove the 6 bolts holding the front mounts of the rear control arms,
3. Remove the inner rear crossmember to body bolts (M12 x 45
4. Remove the air cleaner box
5. Get a pair of M10 x 130 bolts from a hardware store.
6. Replace two (1 on each side...) of the outer rear crossmember bolts (M10x75) with the M10x130 bolts, thread them in part way.
7. Support the whole rear crossmember/tranny with a floor jack
8. Remove the other 2 outer rear crossmember bolts
9. You ought to be able to lower the whole thing nearly 2 inches until it's resting on the longer M10 bolts. Might have to undo the PSD line, the e-brake brackets, etc. But this would give you better access to tighten the cover and/or reseal the top and replace the breather. Make sure the breather's pointing in the right direction (forward and 45o to the right (?))
09-03-2010, 07:47 PM
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yes, I've worked on 2 this month and both leaked significantly from the top.
Mine are 1984s, they are probably different than your 1990. Repair tme depends on your skills and tools and support. . Maybe you can lower the cross member just enough with transmission attached to reach critical points on the box. I don't know. Others familiar with S4/GT arrangement and clutch should suggest the sequence.
There may be reverse switch that is broken and leaking, also, take a hard look. Also front seal where shifter rod enters box. Good pictures will help the other good mechanics here give you ideas.
Mine are 1984s, they are probably different than your 1990. Repair tme depends on your skills and tools and support. . Maybe you can lower the cross member just enough with transmission attached to reach critical points on the box. I don't know. Others familiar with S4/GT arrangement and clutch should suggest the sequence.
There may be reverse switch that is broken and leaking, also, take a hard look. Also front seal where shifter rod enters box. Good pictures will help the other good mechanics here give you ideas.
The front seal is also a candidate. Another theory is that its coming trough the bleeder on the top due to the top gasket beeing broken under the bleeder. Thought on that anyone?
I really appriciate your help!
09-03-2010, 08:01 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
I sure wouldn't put anything in the tranny except gear oil. Can't imagine what any sort of stop leak would do to the friction plates in the PSD.
I haven't thought this all the way thru, but how about this:
If you can put the car high up on jackstands or a 2 post lift, you might be able to:
1. Undo the top of the rear shocks, and the swaybar links.
1a. Drop the exhaust from the cat back, and remove the resonator heat shields
2. Remove the 6 bolts holding the front mounts of the rear control arms,
3. Remove the inner rear crossmember to body bolts (M12 x 45
4. Remove the air cleaner box
5. Get a pair of M10 x 130 bolts from a hardware store.
6. Replace two (1 on each side...) of the outer rear crossmember bolts (M10x75) with the M10x130 bolts, thread them in part way.
7. Support the whole rear crossmember/tranny with a floor jack
8. Remove the other 2 outer rear crossmember bolts
9. You ought to be able to lower the whole thing nearly 2 inches until it's resting on the longer M10 bolts. Might have to undo the PSD line, the e-brake brackets, etc. But this would give you better access to tighten the cover and/or reseal the top and replace the breather. Make sure the breather's pointing in the right direction (forward and 45o to the right (?))
I haven't thought this all the way thru, but how about this:
If you can put the car high up on jackstands or a 2 post lift, you might be able to:
1. Undo the top of the rear shocks, and the swaybar links.
1a. Drop the exhaust from the cat back, and remove the resonator heat shields
2. Remove the 6 bolts holding the front mounts of the rear control arms,
3. Remove the inner rear crossmember to body bolts (M12 x 45
4. Remove the air cleaner box
5. Get a pair of M10 x 130 bolts from a hardware store.
6. Replace two (1 on each side...) of the outer rear crossmember bolts (M10x75) with the M10x130 bolts, thread them in part way.
7. Support the whole rear crossmember/tranny with a floor jack
8. Remove the other 2 outer rear crossmember bolts
9. You ought to be able to lower the whole thing nearly 2 inches until it's resting on the longer M10 bolts. Might have to undo the PSD line, the e-brake brackets, etc. But this would give you better access to tighten the cover and/or reseal the top and replace the breather. Make sure the breather's pointing in the right direction (forward and 45o to the right (?))
1. Ok
1a.Ok
2. rear control arms?
3.ok
4. Is there an air cleaner box?
5. Ok
6. Ok
7. Ok
8. Ok
9. e-brake brackets?
Can the breather/bleeder leak oil if the gasket is ok?
Thanks!
