Motor mount
#31
Team Owner
read this link it should answer some of your questions and give you an idea of what you have to do to fit these new mounts....
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pictures.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pictures.html
#32
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sorry Andy, I don't know the answer to that one. Roger gave me the factory mount to cut in half before the issue of the poor quality Anchor/Ford mounts came up. Never shook it at the time, in fact I never shook the Volvo mount before I cut it in half. All I can attest to is the liquid that came out of both was thin, with an oil type base (slick between your fingers) and smoked and smelled like hell from the heat of my band saw.
After studying the cutaway mount that you so graciously sacrificed and posted for us , I realize that air space within a given cavity that's been designed for hydraulic liquid can't be a good thing. If the non-OEM (Anchor or Volvo) units slosh (according to numerous posts), technically that would mean that an air space is present downstream of the membrane and perforated valve disk which would ultimately result in the engine settling briefly onto the mount until the air space is gone.
Does this make sense or do I sound like Bill Nye?
BTW, the OEM units do not slosh when shaken. Vodka martini anyone?
#34
Team Owner
what you want is the oil pan to be flush with the bottom of the cross member,
see post 31 and follow the link it has pictures of the flush oil pan with the Volvo mounts installed on an early 86
see post 31 and follow the link it has pictures of the flush oil pan with the Volvo mounts installed on an early 86
#35
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I been reading all this post with pic and without pic and i can't get this thing to work unless i force the MM brace the brace should go in without any pushing or forcing all should be need it is to suspend the eng up so will not put any load press and you can tide the MM and brace support then lower the engine back down in place now if We try to used a similar MM no design for this car that is why every one have to figth with this ...My question is are this MM made for or by Porsche or what we getting here are Volve/Ford or what ever other brand...I don't have a problem using After market but if this been design/manufacture with send spec.
#36
Rennlist Member
The Volvo motor mounts you got from Roger work just fine. You can't "just put them in". You really, I MEAN REALLY, need to understand what this job entails. We did mine in a couple hours while I was down at the DFW crew's place. Would have been under an hour if we had all the nuts (but someone left them at the office didn't they and had to drive back and get them).
This job will take you 4 hours at home maybe 5 if you and a friend are doing it and you don't stop for lunch.
READ THE WRITE UPS EVERYONE HAS SUGGESTED. The mounts work, they fit well, a couple mm higher than stock so you don't need washers as shims. We had to push up a bit on the mount bracket to get them bolt on if I recall. I can tell you, they are better than the stock mounts I had and better than the Ford mounts I had in for a couple months.
This job will take you 4 hours at home maybe 5 if you and a friend are doing it and you don't stop for lunch.
READ THE WRITE UPS EVERYONE HAS SUGGESTED. The mounts work, they fit well, a couple mm higher than stock so you don't need washers as shims. We had to push up a bit on the mount bracket to get them bolt on if I recall. I can tell you, they are better than the stock mounts I had and better than the Ford mounts I had in for a couple months.
#37
Team Owner
risc you need to get with someone thats familiar with the 928 MM installation, also please reread my link it will detail the installation process .
if your only lifting the engine and expecting to install the mounts then that will not work the lower crossmember has to come off
if your only lifting the engine and expecting to install the mounts then that will not work the lower crossmember has to come off
#38
Rennlist Member
risc and tmpusfugit,
PM me if you would like to be added to the Houston 928 Google email list. We have had a few gatherings but participation has been pretty low lately.
Wish I could help you out with the MM (8-10 hour job, not 5) but I'm swamped this weekend getting ready to go out of town. Does sound like you are not lifting the engine high enough. Should be about an inch.
PM me if you would like to be added to the Houston 928 Google email list. We have had a few gatherings but participation has been pretty low lately.
Wish I could help you out with the MM (8-10 hour job, not 5) but I'm swamped this weekend getting ready to go out of town. Does sound like you are not lifting the engine high enough. Should be about an inch.
#39
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Ok i will give it one more try today, Don i lift the engine so high that i starting to lift no only the eng by the hole car..The original washer should be remove and only use the locking washer from the new MM??? lMrmerlin the brake is out by the way.
#40
How are you lifting the engine? From below or are you using an actual engine brace?
#41
Rennlist Member
A couple of pictures would help.
The mounts go up with the carrier hardware.
The cross brace gets raised into place.
The lifting of the motor is minor point, and it doesn't need to go very high.
The outside edges of the crossbrace need to align with the through-bolt carriers by each wheel.
Are you lining those up?
Pictures please. Otherwise, don't see how anybody can help much further.
The mounts go up with the carrier hardware.
The cross brace gets raised into place.
The lifting of the motor is minor point, and it doesn't need to go very high.
The outside edges of the crossbrace need to align with the through-bolt carriers by each wheel.
Are you lining those up?
Pictures please. Otherwise, don't see how anybody can help much further.
#42
Team Owner
from your postings it seems as though your trying to lift the engine without the lower crossmember removed if so then you need to remove the lower control arm bolts then drop the lower crossmember.
Dont lift the engine more than 2 inches otherwise you will damage the torque tube run and any other parts that are connected to it like a shifter linkage or the foam pad or the hydraulic lines
Dont lift the engine more than 2 inches otherwise you will damage the torque tube run and any other parts that are connected to it like a shifter linkage or the foam pad or the hydraulic lines
#43
Rennlist Member
MM job should not take you 8-10 hours with a helper. With several very experienced helpers on a lift, it is doable in 2-2.5 hours. We all felt we could have done it in an hour if we had all the parts that day. We had 5 or 6 working on it. The wait for the nuts made the job take longer thus the 2.5 hour time. Keep in mind we had a lift, multiple air tools running at a time and didn't have to bag and tag everything. It was zip, zip zip, drop the bolts in a tray. Take the parts out, have someone clean them while others were doing other things. Helpers handing tools and parts as requested. Very much like an operating room. We also didn't wait for the car to cool. That one afternoon in the shop IIRC we did two motor mount jobs, changed out all my springs and shocks, put in steering rack bushings for someone and recharged and AC system. We started around lunchtime and were done by dinner.
I did my first ever motor mount and oil pan gasket with a helper and a lunch break in 9 hours. I had never done either before and we had to clean everything as we went. This was on our backs with jack stands.
The DFW group is very experienced and their team work makes their jobs go so much faster than anyone I have seen this side of a pit crew.
5 hours should be easily doable with an experienced helper and your parts come off as they should.
I did my first ever motor mount and oil pan gasket with a helper and a lunch break in 9 hours. I had never done either before and we had to clean everything as we went. This was on our backs with jack stands.
The DFW group is very experienced and their team work makes their jobs go so much faster than anyone I have seen this side of a pit crew.
5 hours should be easily doable with an experienced helper and your parts come off as they should.
#44
By yourself, it will take you 7-10 hours. We've done dozens of them and know what each other is doing. The last time I had a 'helper' it took longer.
MM job should not take you 8-10 hours with a helper. With several very experienced helpers on a lift, it is doable in 2-2.5 hours. We all felt we could have done it in an hour if we had all the parts that day. We had 5 or 6 working on it. The wait for the nuts made the job take longer thus the 2.5 hour time. Keep in mind we had a lift, multiple air tools running at a time and didn't have to bag and tag everything. It was zip, zip zip, drop the bolts in a tray. Take the parts out, have someone clean them while others were doing other things. Helpers handing tools and parts as requested. Very much like an operating room. We also didn't wait for the car to cool. That one afternoon in the shop IIRC we did two motor mount jobs, changed out all my springs and shocks, put in steering rack bushings for someone and recharged and AC system. We started around lunchtime and were done by dinner.
I did my first ever motor mount and oil pan gasket with a helper and a lunch break in 9 hours. I had never done either before and we had to clean everything as we went. This was on our backs with jack stands.
The DFW group is very experienced and their team work makes their jobs go so much faster than anyone I have seen this side of a pit crew.
5 hours should be easily doable with an experienced helper and your parts come off as they should.
I did my first ever motor mount and oil pan gasket with a helper and a lunch break in 9 hours. I had never done either before and we had to clean everything as we went. This was on our backs with jack stands.
The DFW group is very experienced and their team work makes their jobs go so much faster than anyone I have seen this side of a pit crew.
5 hours should be easily doable with an experienced helper and your parts come off as they should.
#45
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These are not Porsche mounts they are aftermarket MM's.
I agree with Mr.Merlin that it sounds like you have not removed the cross member.
Can you confirm that??
I am in the office today if you need to talk to me.
Roger
I agree with Mr.Merlin that it sounds like you have not removed the cross member.
Can you confirm that??
I am in the office today if you need to talk to me.
Roger
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."