Mrmerlin

read this link it should answer some of your questions and give you an idea of what you have to do to fit these new mounts....

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pictures.html

Andy E.

Jim, I appreciate your response just the same. The reason I was asking was that I just picked up an OEM set from Vertex and naturally, as anyone else would do, I shook the damn thing expecting to hear Niagara Falls.

After studying the cutaway mount that you so graciously sacrificed and posted for us , I realize that air space within a given cavity that's been designed for hydraulic liquid can't be a good thing. If the non-OEM (Anchor or Volvo) units slosh (according to numerous posts), technically that would mean that an air space is present downstream of the membrane and perforated valve disk which would ultimately result in the engine settling briefly onto the mount until the air space is gone.
Does this make sense or do I sound like Bill Nye?

BTW, the OEM units do not slosh when shaken. Vodka martini anyone?

seagul extra

On a 86.5 how much clearance should there be between the oil pan and the crossbrace?

Mrmerlin

what you want is the oil pan to be flush with the bottom of the cross member,
see post 31 and follow the link it has pictures of the flush oil pan with the Volvo mounts installed on an early 86

risc

I been reading all this post with pic and without pic and i can't get this thing to work unless i force the MM brace the brace should go in without any pushing or forcing all should be need it is to suspend the eng up so will not put any load press and you can tide the MM and brace support then lower the engine back down in place now if We try to used a similar MM no design for this car that is why every one have to figth with this ...My question is are this MM made for or by Porsche or what we getting here are Volve/Ford or what ever other brand...I don't have a problem using After market but if this been design/manufacture with send spec.

jeff spahn

The Volvo motor mounts you got from Roger work just fine. You can't "just put them in". You really, I MEAN REALLY, need to understand what this job entails. We did mine in a couple hours while I was down at the DFW crew's place. Would have been under an hour if we had all the nuts (but someone left them at the office didn't they and had to drive back and get them).

This job will take you 4 hours at home maybe 5 if you and a friend are doing it and you don't stop for lunch.

READ THE WRITE UPS EVERYONE HAS SUGGESTED. The mounts work, they fit well, a couple mm higher than stock so you don't need washers as shims. We had to push up a bit on the mount bracket to get them bolt on if I recall. I can tell you, they are better than the stock mounts I had and better than the Ford mounts I had in for a couple months.

Mrmerlin

risc you need to get with someone thats familiar with the 928 MM installation, also please reread my link it will detail the installation process .
if your only lifting the engine and expecting to install the mounts then that will not work the lower crossmember has to come off

Don Carter

risc and tmpusfugit,

PM me if you would like to be added to the Houston 928 Google email list. We have had a few gatherings but participation has been pretty low lately.

Wish I could help you out with the MM (8-10 hour job, not 5) but I'm swamped this weekend getting ready to go out of town. Does sound like you are not lifting the engine high enough. Should be about an inch.

risc

Ok i will give it one more try today, Don i lift the engine so high that i starting to lift no only the eng by the hole car..The original washer should be remove and only use the locking washer from the new MM??? lMrmerlin the brake is out by the way.

SeanR

How are you lifting the engine? From below or are you using an actual engine brace?

Landseer

A couple of pictures would help.

The mounts go up with the carrier hardware.
The cross brace gets raised into place.
The lifting of the motor is minor point, and it doesn't need to go very high.

The outside edges of the crossbrace need to align with the through-bolt carriers by each wheel.
Are you lining those up?

Pictures please. Otherwise, don't see how anybody can help much further.

Mrmerlin

from your postings it seems as though your trying to lift the engine without the lower crossmember removed if so then you need to remove the lower control arm bolts then drop the lower crossmember.
Dont lift the engine more than 2 inches otherwise you will damage the torque tube run and any other parts that are connected to it like a shifter linkage or the foam pad or the hydraulic lines

jeff spahn

MM job should not take you 8-10 hours with a helper. With several very experienced helpers on a lift, it is doable in 2-2.5 hours. We all felt we could have done it in an hour if we had all the parts that day. We had 5 or 6 working on it. The wait for the nuts made the job take longer thus the 2.5 hour time. Keep in mind we had a lift, multiple air tools running at a time and didn't have to bag and tag everything. It was zip, zip zip, drop the bolts in a tray. Take the parts out, have someone clean them while others were doing other things. Helpers handing tools and parts as requested. Very much like an operating room. We also didn't wait for the car to cool. That one afternoon in the shop IIRC we did two motor mount jobs, changed out all my springs and shocks, put in steering rack bushings for someone and recharged and AC system. We started around lunchtime and were done by dinner.

I did my first ever motor mount and oil pan gasket with a helper and a lunch break in 9 hours. I had never done either before and we had to clean everything as we went. This was on our backs with jack stands.

The DFW group is very experienced and their team work makes their jobs go so much faster than anyone I have seen this side of a pit crew.

5 hours should be easily doable with an experienced helper and your parts come off as they should.

SeanR

By yourself, it will take you 7-10 hours. We've done dozens of them and know what each other is doing. The last time I had a 'helper' it took longer.

ROG100

These are not Porsche mounts they are aftermarket MM's.
I agree with Mr.Merlin that it sounds like you have not removed the cross member.
Can you confirm that??
I am in the office today if you need to talk to me.
Roger