thal

Thanks for the pic Chris.

As for non-op cert, I'll have to look into whether PA has something like that, should this drag out in a prolonged manner, but I'm hoping not. I appreciate the advice all the same.

thal

well thanks to Landseer and others I was able to loosen the front eccentrics. and get the trans out tonight.

for those as unfamiliar as I with the gory little details that can hang one up, here's some hopefully interesting pics.

first, the parking brake cable has a little o-ring on it and getting it to come out of it's spot was a little difficult. unfortunately I skived off the plastic covering on the cable. not sure if that can be repaired or is a new cable needed.



removed the half shaft from trans and wired them up to the rear axle cross member.

loosened the two bolts on each side holding the trans to the cross member.



also looks like this car's been damaged in some way as the cross member and passenger side front lower arm attest. any way to estimate when it might have happened?





then loosened the front lower eccentric nut on each side using Lanseer's suggestion of a 3lb hammer against a box wrench on the nut. Came off pretty easy actually. Thanks Lanseer! I did not realize the bolt is welded to the eccentric and has a flat machined on the bolt threads.



then used a pry bar to move the lower control arms from their slots that the front eccentrics held them.



then the cross member could be lowered on the jack. but it's a bit wobbly on there, and I learned that I had not lifted the car high enough before i started. this made removal from underneath, shall I say freaking difficult!

anyways, I put it on a pair of wheel dolly's and made moving around easier.



once that was out of the way, I removed the front TT to bellhouse bolts. Corrosion of a couple bolts is a concern. Any thoughts why?



wedged the front TT away from the bellhouse so the nose of the central shaft cleared.



removed the wood and small cross brace that held the TT up, and slowly lowered the trans. my lovely assistant lowered the trans while i guided the TT down.



removed the rear TT and found what appears to be kinda good news. the central shaft spline is toast, as well as the clamp, but it looks like the input shaft spline is ok!



please take a look at these and tell me if you concur.





it looks this nice all the way around. i've got more pics of the spline, but to keep this already long post shorter i did not include them.

so any way to check condition of the spline to confirm it's in good shape? or should i just replace the input shaft and be done with it?

i'll be digging open the top to see what condition the gears are in. the case is a filthy mess. not sure how to clean it at this stage. also figured i'd replace all the seal and gaskets while it's out.

thanks again for all the support and help.

Landseer

Spline looks fine. You are golden on this so far.

Now to find an economical TT replacement.

Would be a beautiful thing if you could put constantine bearings in a salvage one and reinstall it.

(Mine needs to go back together now with marginal bearings, and will get the Black Sea Engineering set at a later date --- it'll be a weekend job or less for the upgrade)

thal

thanks for the assessment. I was thinking the same thing about the TT. gotta start looking.

the case is a freaking mess, i'm thinking multiple seals/gaskets are bad. so my thoughts were a seal/gasket kit. seems 928 intl has one. what do you think?

Landseer

They are the pros on gearbox. Whatever they say!

Silver79

PM sent. Joe

Black Sea RD

This is a great cautionary tale about checking the torque for the fasteners both at the front and rear of the drive shaft connections.

Great job Keith!

Chris, you are owed a round for being the long distance guide on this project!

As for the corroded fasteners, you can clean them up with a brass brush and when re-installing them coat them with anti-seize OR replace with new ones, just make sure they are the correct grade of steel, USA grade 8 at least. The grading is a bit different on European fasteners.

Have fun with the rest of the project!

Cheers,

Mike Frye

Hey Keith, great work!

I'm no expert, but that input shaft looks perfect to me. Great pics too.

thal

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I actually thought it looked too good to be true. That's why I'm asking for second opinions, sorta like shaking my head thinking this must be a dream. I really appreciated your comments early on, kept me from throwing in the towel. I owe you one bud.

Mike Frye

No problem. Maybe you'll be back on the road in time for Sharks at the Beach-III.

Nothing like driving in the nice cool fall air!

Good luck on the rebuild, as catastrophic failures go, I'd take a TT rebuild/swap over a trans any day.

thal

You got that right!

I'm not familiar with Shark at the beach. Sounds like fun. When is it?

With a family wedding, college grad, and then my daughter's wedding in the next six weeks I'll be lucky to get the car fixed and back together before snow. I know they'll be hell to pay if my wife doesn't get her garage space back before she has to scrape frost or snow.

Mike Frye

Sharks At The Beach -III is one of the stickies in the 928 forum. Me and Adam G. have been doing this for a few years. This year looks to be the biggest yet with 3 sponsors for free goodies and lots of people have signed up already.

10/9/2010- Save the date!

thal

well go ahead, light a fire under my *beep*!

it sounds like a great time. about 250 miles one way for me. we'll see how i progress and i'll let you know as the time grows nearer. you'll be seeing how i progress to know if i'm lying or not. Hah!

Mrmerlin

FWIW I would do more checking on the input shaft the worn section goes quite a bit deeper into the input. use a tooth brush and some brake cleaner to flush out any other debris.
I know that your going to get another clamp, you should also get a new set of clamp bolts front and rear.
Good Luck with your project

Landseer

Ouch.