Torque Tube and Input Shaft are Toast - What would you do?
#31
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Hack or no hack.....Considering the two parts are toast anyways, I think this is and EXCELLENT idea. You have nothing to loose by doing this either. $hit, it problby will hold up for years to come.
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ah, it's only an excellent idea until I have to do the next repair. then I will be smacking my head against the closest brick wall until unconscious.
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hit a little snag getting the rear axle cross member removed. everything's loose, the trans is hanging from some chain, all i need to do is loosen the lower control arm bolts. but...
the lower control arm bolts seem frozen. i've been soaking them with PB blaster and they are not budging with a 12" and 18" breaker bar. I'm wondering if the rubber is seized to the bolts. i'm a little concerned that getting too aggressive could pull the car off a jackstand. any suggestions would be appreciated.
the lower control arm bolts seem frozen. i've been soaking them with PB blaster and they are not budging with a 12" and 18" breaker bar. I'm wondering if the rubber is seized to the bolts. i'm a little concerned that getting too aggressive could pull the car off a jackstand. any suggestions would be appreciated.
#34
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Can you show a picture?
I never take lower control arms off, instead, remove cross-member and hubs and shocks/springs as a single unit. What is preventing that? Insufficient body height?
I never take lower control arms off, instead, remove cross-member and hubs and shocks/springs as a single unit. What is preventing that? Insufficient body height?
#35
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#36
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hit a little snag getting the rear axle cross member removed. everything's loose, the trans is hanging from some chain, all i need to do is loosen the lower control arm bolts. but...
the lower control arm bolts seem frozen. i've been soaking them with PB blaster and they are not budging with a 12" and 18" breaker bar. I'm wondering if the rubber is seized to the bolts. i'm a little concerned that getting too aggressive could pull the car off a jackstand. any suggestions would be appreciated.
the lower control arm bolts seem frozen. i've been soaking them with PB blaster and they are not budging with a 12" and 18" breaker bar. I'm wondering if the rubber is seized to the bolts. i'm a little concerned that getting too aggressive could pull the car off a jackstand. any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Chris,
Here's one of the bolts I am referring to, 19mm. I thought this was called the lower control arm, it's certainly possible I'm calling it something incorrect, but they are attached to the rear axle cross member. In Section 42, (rear wheel suspension, axle shaft), volume 4 of the WSM, calls them the toe eccentric bolts.
Here's one of the bolts I am referring to, 19mm. I thought this was called the lower control arm, it's certainly possible I'm calling it something incorrect, but they are attached to the rear axle cross member. In Section 42, (rear wheel suspension, axle shaft), volume 4 of the WSM, calls them the toe eccentric bolts.
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OK. Are they torqued that high? or is it just that they get froze in place against the rubber?
Anyways, thanks for the advice, I'll give that a try.
Anyways, thanks for the advice, I'll give that a try.
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Keith,
You won't be able to budge that eccentric, but you should be able to get the nut on the back of it loose. The front is just for counterholding.
Looks like it slid some, it should be marked and replaced in the same place it was before. You may have to get an alignment when you're done if it's moved any. Same with the upper crossmember bolts at the top of the wheel arches. It says to mark the location but mine only went back in one position so that may not be as critical (or I may just be lucky, but that's not likely).
You won't be able to budge that eccentric, but you should be able to get the nut on the back of it loose. The front is just for counterholding.
Looks like it slid some, it should be marked and replaced in the same place it was before. You may have to get an alignment when you're done if it's moved any. Same with the upper crossmember bolts at the top of the wheel arches. It says to mark the location but mine only went back in one position so that may not be as critical (or I may just be lucky, but that's not likely).
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Thanks Mike.
Yep, it slid attempting to loosen. It looked like I had more room to work from the bolt side rather than the nut side, so that's why I did what I did. I did mark, but agree that an alignment is likely required after the repair.
Yep, it slid attempting to loosen. It looked like I had more room to work from the bolt side rather than the nut side, so that's why I did what I did. I did mark, but agree that an alignment is likely required after the repair.
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If you decide to keep the car, you can file a non-op certificate on it ($18.00 in CA, YMMV). With the car legally registered as non-op, no insurance is required and neither is yearly registration (other than the yearly non-op renewal). Just a thought...