corroded brake line fittings - bubble versus double flare
08-08-2010, 02:21 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
corroded brake line fittings - bubble versus double flare
My first go around with the original rigid brake lines I managed to screw up both rigid lines while replacing the flex lines at the well wells.
Thanks to advise from folks here I got the flex lines off at the rear without twisting the rigid lines but the fittings are frozen to the rigid lines. I have sprayed with PB blaster several times and no movement.
My 1979 has bubble fittings versus the double flair that are later cars. Not sure if the two can be mixed, gut would say no. I don't want to replace the whole lenght of rigid line!
Options as I see it are;
1. Attach the new flex line to the frozen rigid fitting while the caliper end is free and then attach the line to the caliper while before installing on the brake disc and hope I dont have to much twist on the line.
2. Find a tool to do bubble flares and replace the frozen fitting and a small lenght of the line.
3. Replace the whole lenght of the rigid brake line
Any suggestions, other options or silver bullets would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks to advise from folks here I got the flex lines off at the rear without twisting the rigid lines but the fittings are frozen to the rigid lines. I have sprayed with PB blaster several times and no movement.
My 1979 has bubble fittings versus the double flair that are later cars. Not sure if the two can be mixed, gut would say no. I don't want to replace the whole lenght of rigid line!
Options as I see it are;
1. Attach the new flex line to the frozen rigid fitting while the caliper end is free and then attach the line to the caliper while before installing on the brake disc and hope I dont have to much twist on the line.
2. Find a tool to do bubble flares and replace the frozen fitting and a small lenght of the line.
3. Replace the whole lenght of the rigid brake line
Any suggestions, other options or silver bullets would be greatly appreciated!!
08-08-2010, 02:54 PM
#2
Team Owner
I would do 1
08-09-2010, 05:41 PM
#3
Instructor
Option 4:
First, heat the flare nut red-hot with a torch. This will break the corrosion, and probably give you a tiny amount of movement. Next, soak the end in some sort of rust dissolver. I used HCL (muriatic) pool acid. Gently rotate the nut back and forth while it's soaking in the acid. After a few minutes of doing this, the corrosion will eventually dissolve, and the nut will turn freely. Afterward, be sure to thoroughly rinse and neutralize the pieces that contacted the acid (baking soda, for example), and flush out the brake line with fresh brake fluid from the master cylinder side. You will need to apply anti-seize to the annular space between the nut and tube, or it will eventually seize up again from rust.
First, heat the flare nut red-hot with a torch. This will break the corrosion, and probably give you a tiny amount of movement. Next, soak the end in some sort of rust dissolver. I used HCL (muriatic) pool acid. Gently rotate the nut back and forth while it's soaking in the acid. After a few minutes of doing this, the corrosion will eventually dissolve, and the nut will turn freely. Afterward, be sure to thoroughly rinse and neutralize the pieces that contacted the acid (baking soda, for example), and flush out the brake line with fresh brake fluid from the master cylinder side. You will need to apply anti-seize to the annular space between the nut and tube, or it will eventually seize up again from rust.
08-10-2010, 09:04 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. The line is still installed and thus not in a good place to soak with acid.
I was concerned that option 1 might be a bit too shade tree but if Merlin see's it as a viable option
I am certainly impressed that I came up with it at all
I was concerned that option 1 might be a bit too shade tree but if Merlin see's it as a viable option
I am certainly impressed that I came up with it at all
