engine cleaning
#31
Drifting
I've had no problems with (consumer) Simple Green and a light spray from a garden hose.
I do however cover the air intake (Stock airbox) and distributors with Saran wrap (Cling films) prior, and start it right up afterwards until it dries off.
I do however cover the air intake (Stock airbox) and distributors with Saran wrap (Cling films) prior, and start it right up afterwards until it dries off.
#32
Drifting
I used brake cleaner (cheap Wal-Mart stuff) this weekend to clean up one of my shock perches and it softened up the paint into a gooey mess. Clean two others with Gunk engine foam… worked great, but ran out. Cleaned the last one with Simply Green and was happy. Then I tried this cheap Rubbermaid degreaser from Menards on the drop link and was surprised at the results. I have to admit I was using a wire scrub brush and was very pleased with the results. I think just about any degreaser will do:
In the end the first one with brake cleaner ended up being the worst (second in from the left). I probably should have sprayed it on a rag, then wiped. Doesn’t matter I plan on stripping these, grinding off the rust, and respraying with epoxy based paint. Just saying be careful with some of the cleaners (carb, brake, and even some wheel cleaners) that contain solvents... they can take paint right off.
To answer the OP question it really depends on how dirty your engine is. If it’s like Chuck Z or Marine Blue engine bay, then compressed air and a damp lint free cloth will do. If it’s been 30K miles and full of gunk, I’m thinking engine foam and high-pressure wash.
The under hood environment is designed to be able to withstand an occasional splash, but not a complete submersion. Keep that in mind when picking your targets and don’t fill the ‘vee’ with water. Stay away from intake and everything underneath and avoid the distributors and electrical connectors.
Also, a slightly warm engine is okay, but not a smoking hot one.
In the end the first one with brake cleaner ended up being the worst (second in from the left). I probably should have sprayed it on a rag, then wiped. Doesn’t matter I plan on stripping these, grinding off the rust, and respraying with epoxy based paint. Just saying be careful with some of the cleaners (carb, brake, and even some wheel cleaners) that contain solvents... they can take paint right off.
To answer the OP question it really depends on how dirty your engine is. If it’s like Chuck Z or Marine Blue engine bay, then compressed air and a damp lint free cloth will do. If it’s been 30K miles and full of gunk, I’m thinking engine foam and high-pressure wash.
The under hood environment is designed to be able to withstand an occasional splash, but not a complete submersion. Keep that in mind when picking your targets and don’t fill the ‘vee’ with water. Stay away from intake and everything underneath and avoid the distributors and electrical connectors.
Also, a slightly warm engine is okay, but not a smoking hot one.
#34
Team Owner
VANSTER, and the name is????
#35
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I've 'tested' the Costco stuff and was not impressed. It may work well on fresh dirt and slime, but cosmoline and the baked on crusts under the car didn't budge.