How loud do you listen to the stereo in your 928? Please contribute for development
#32
Race Car
And, yup, that's the right type of microphone!
#33
Rennlist Member
Eleven. That's because mine goes to 11.
"Why dont you just make 10 louder?"
"Well, it goes to 11 !"
Hans, please turn it up to 11...
Thank you and see you on Friday!
B
"Why dont you just make 10 louder?"
"Well, it goes to 11 !"
Hans, please turn it up to 11...
Thank you and see you on Friday!
B
#34
Drifting
The Alpine system in my car has digital signal processing (called imprint) for fine tuning.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXAH...r.html?tp=116\
It's kind of cool… you set microphones in different locations and it plays/measures various frequency responses in the cabin and basically builds a custom filter for it.
Ironically, Hans is the one that turned me onto this product and I’m guessing he will figure out a way to make something like this for his setup.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXAH...r.html?tp=116\
It's kind of cool… you set microphones in different locations and it plays/measures various frequency responses in the cabin and basically builds a custom filter for it.
Ironically, Hans is the one that turned me onto this product and I’m guessing he will figure out a way to make something like this for his setup.
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rob -
You can do exactly as you describe. You can close-mic your listening postion, and create an inverse fitler to apply to all audio output to make a "perfect" preamp signal. There is lots of software out there to do this. What really gets complicated is when you go beyond adjusting frequency, but enter the time domain. Now you need to have lots of output devices as each driver needs its own filter.
Its a bit overkill for what most people what, but if you go the carputer route, I can work with customer to provide any level of insanity that they want.
Sterling -
As far as voltage output, we can do anything you want with an external device. Using the on-board sound (budget) option, expect upto 1.5v or so. However, you can use pro quality USB2, Firewire, or even PCI(E) sound cards. I personally am testing with my "reference" EMU 1820M soundcard and and also a Maudio Firwire 410, both of which test great, and have HIGH voltage outputs, forget 5v, we are talking 18v if you want it, and fully balanced too.
I do have a clever plan that I am working on though, but doing some research first.
Looks like most people here realistically dont listen any louder than 110db, and that would be pushing it. To put it in context, THX (optimal theatrical listening levels) is centered around an 85db floor, with 20db headroom - 105db at the loudest. The rule of power vs volume, is that doubling the power will raise the volume by 3db. Working back from that, and starting with an 85db efficient speaker, we see that we would like a 20db increase, which would be roughly 7 "doublings" or (1x2x2x2x2x2x2x2)=128w So 128w applied to an 85db efficient speaker will yeild an output level of 105db in an open "anechoic" space. Thankfully, we have something called cabin gain, which increases the perceived volume because of the enclosed space - this effect is diminished with windows open. This also effects bass frequencies more drastically, as the waves are much longer. At any rate, the full 128w is not necessary because of this cabin-gain. It is likely we could achieve this volume with only 64w of power. And realistically, most would be happy not listening at the ear-bleending level of a reference cinema, so if we back off by 3db, we are down into the 32w area which is both inexpensive and easy to "hide" in the limited space offered by the 928, in as such as this power is clean and non-clipping.
So, for those of you thinking of upgrading the stereo, there will be an "output" product line to mate up with the carputer (or any other) source.
Thanks
Hans
You can do exactly as you describe. You can close-mic your listening postion, and create an inverse fitler to apply to all audio output to make a "perfect" preamp signal. There is lots of software out there to do this. What really gets complicated is when you go beyond adjusting frequency, but enter the time domain. Now you need to have lots of output devices as each driver needs its own filter.
Its a bit overkill for what most people what, but if you go the carputer route, I can work with customer to provide any level of insanity that they want.
Sterling -
As far as voltage output, we can do anything you want with an external device. Using the on-board sound (budget) option, expect upto 1.5v or so. However, you can use pro quality USB2, Firewire, or even PCI(E) sound cards. I personally am testing with my "reference" EMU 1820M soundcard and and also a Maudio Firwire 410, both of which test great, and have HIGH voltage outputs, forget 5v, we are talking 18v if you want it, and fully balanced too.
I do have a clever plan that I am working on though, but doing some research first.
Looks like most people here realistically dont listen any louder than 110db, and that would be pushing it. To put it in context, THX (optimal theatrical listening levels) is centered around an 85db floor, with 20db headroom - 105db at the loudest. The rule of power vs volume, is that doubling the power will raise the volume by 3db. Working back from that, and starting with an 85db efficient speaker, we see that we would like a 20db increase, which would be roughly 7 "doublings" or (1x2x2x2x2x2x2x2)=128w So 128w applied to an 85db efficient speaker will yeild an output level of 105db in an open "anechoic" space. Thankfully, we have something called cabin gain, which increases the perceived volume because of the enclosed space - this effect is diminished with windows open. This also effects bass frequencies more drastically, as the waves are much longer. At any rate, the full 128w is not necessary because of this cabin-gain. It is likely we could achieve this volume with only 64w of power. And realistically, most would be happy not listening at the ear-bleending level of a reference cinema, so if we back off by 3db, we are down into the 32w area which is both inexpensive and easy to "hide" in the limited space offered by the 928, in as such as this power is clean and non-clipping.
So, for those of you thinking of upgrading the stereo, there will be an "output" product line to mate up with the carputer (or any other) source.
Thanks
Hans
#36
Rennlist Member
Wife has the responsibility to blow up SATA's system if she can and believe me she tries - old skool power300 Fosgate driving stock speakers, with 250w bridged to a 10" cadence. Amazed the ITT's still haven't croaked, but they sound really good after 24yrs!
#37
Rennlist Member
#38
Rennlist Member
Had a great sound system in my 90 GT. It was 50 watts per channel with infinity Kappa 1x4 components and two 6 in JL bass in the rear 6 in locations. Drove it with a Nak head and ran everything thru a Rockfordge Fosgate surround sound processor. It sounded GREAT and got way plenty loud and had more than enough bass thump. I used to have CD called Bass Alert that was nothing but subwoofer music...Bass, some people got it, some people dont...thump thump thump.
The really interesting thing is that I could be listening pretty loud and talking to someone next to my drivers door with the window down, and they couldn't hear the music.
The really interesting thing is that I could be listening pretty loud and talking to someone next to my drivers door with the window down, and they couldn't hear the music.
#39
Rennlist Member
I made one of those when I was in HS and hooked it up to to different light strings on our Christmas Tree. Had it hooked thru a mic and amp so it would flash to any sounds in the room, Chirstmas music and conversation. It was way cool for the 70's!
#40
Rennlist Member
Seriously, I've always been somewhat of an audiophile when selecting systems for my cars... even when in high school in Tampa Bay.
I listen to most types from Classical to Thrash Metal (exceptions being Rap & most Country) and have been pleased with most Alpine offerings to span that range of genres.
Currently I have a 10+1 system (interior out of a '91) that consists of:
CD head unit
6.5" type R's in B-pillar
5.25" type S's in quarter window with
4" type S's as component pair including crossovers
12" type R subwoofer
5.25" shallow in doors with
3.5" as component pair including crossovers (doors are AudioBahn -appropriate brand given the 928's heritage, no?)
400Wx1 @ 4 ohm amplifier for sub
70Wx4 @ 4 ohm amplifier for front/rear component pairs
50Wx2 @ 4 ohm amplifier for full range B-pillar pair
My present configuration:
Last edited by White Lightnin'; 08-03-2010 at 07:35 PM.
#42
Rennlist Member
OMG, where the hell did you mount all of that gear?!? Or do you not have any rear seats or cargo space?
I have a board in the spare tire well with one 4 ch amp and the three rear 3-way x-overs, plus the 2-way x-overs for the front tucked away under the dash wherever I could find room, and I have no room left for anything else! I've been thinking (already) about how I could get a little baby 8" subwoofer in there but don't like the solutions which incorporate the gear that I just installed. I would have to get the smallest worthy amp I could find and mount it inside the sub box.
I have a board in the spare tire well with one 4 ch amp and the three rear 3-way x-overs, plus the 2-way x-overs for the front tucked away under the dash wherever I could find room, and I have no room left for anything else! I've been thinking (already) about how I could get a little baby 8" subwoofer in there but don't like the solutions which incorporate the gear that I just installed. I would have to get the smallest worthy amp I could find and mount it inside the sub box.
#43
Rennlist Member
-the 2 main amps are mounted to the rear seat backs;
-the ported sub box takes up the entire spare area & raises the cargo deck to where the cover lays;
-the other half of cargo area has a false floor about 1/2 as high as the sub box with the remaining gear underneath (in the basic configuration as the diagram);
-the door crossovers are in the doors;
-the rear seats are functional, but left in the 'up' position at all times.
The cargo area in a 928 has always been somewhat of a misnomer anyway, so the rear seats do just fine for a couple of small duffle bags for trips.
#44
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodstock Ga.
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wish I had a system like that monster but............ When I bought my car it had a CD-2 porsche head unit in it and it was broken, I thought. Just needed the code. Once I figured out the code there was no sound. I was on a budget and my exhaust is LOUD so I needed some noise to battle the exhaust and wind noise at 80mph...no a/c.
I put in a 2 channel amp, 520 watts and some 6x9 Alpines in boxes behind the rear seat so the point toward the rear bumper or if the seats are down the are right behind my ears.
It is loud to say the least and if Zepplin is playing I will turn it to 3/4 volume!
I put in a 2 channel amp, 520 watts and some 6x9 Alpines in boxes behind the rear seat so the point toward the rear bumper or if the seats are down the are right behind my ears.
It is loud to say the least and if Zepplin is playing I will turn it to 3/4 volume!
#45
Rennlist Member
Sound meter says 75-80 db