half shaft removal addendum
#1
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Hi-
I replaced my CV boots (all 4) and rebuilt the inner joints this weekend. I used Dwayne's writeup as a starting point but thought there might be an easier way to get the allen bolts off than trying to lie under the car with a ratchet. There is.
A helper makes this much easier to run the emergency brake.
This method makes is easier to seat the allen key socket into the bolt as well.
What differs in my method is using a 20" extension and and going in from the wheel well. Combine that with an air ratchet and it is super fast and easy.
Here's a movie about it too: http://gallery.me.com/jspahn#100307
I replaced my CV boots (all 4) and rebuilt the inner joints this weekend. I used Dwayne's writeup as a starting point but thought there might be an easier way to get the allen bolts off than trying to lie under the car with a ratchet. There is.
A helper makes this much easier to run the emergency brake.
This method makes is easier to seat the allen key socket into the bolt as well.
What differs in my method is using a 20" extension and and going in from the wheel well. Combine that with an air ratchet and it is super fast and easy.
Here's a movie about it too: http://gallery.me.com/jspahn#100307
#3
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also if you dont have a helper,
using a thicker sized screwdriver in the vents of the rotor will lock the rotor in any position you need.
the caliper support will hold the screwdriver in place
using a thicker sized screwdriver in the vents of the rotor will lock the rotor in any position you need.
the caliper support will hold the screwdriver in place
#5
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All you're missing is a grossly overqualified helper!
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Axle%20bolt%20torquing%2032%20inch%20extemsopms.jpg)
#6
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Its the hat , its the florescent green hat I tell yaa.....
Oh your talking about your helper, that would be the most honorable Dr Bob
Oh your talking about your helper, that would be the most honorable Dr Bob
#7
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Man it sure it nice having a car from California where there is no snow, salt or rain. Everything is like new under there.
With the money I saved doing this myself, I convinced my wife that a parts washer was what we really needed in the garage. I wonder what that will cost me when she gets back from shopping.
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#8
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Most houses already have a parts cleaner. Just use the Potscrubber cycle. Works great! ![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Seriously, a 3 gallon parts washer is $60 and takes up 2 sq ft of space. Dunno how you'd get accurate torque values on filthy bolts without a decent cleaner, and brakekleen on a paper towel gets old pretty quick. You getting that size, or a big 'un?
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Seriously, a 3 gallon parts washer is $60 and takes up 2 sq ft of space. Dunno how you'd get accurate torque values on filthy bolts without a decent cleaner, and brakekleen on a paper towel gets old pretty quick. You getting that size, or a big 'un?
#9
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Most houses already have a parts cleaner. Just use the Potscrubber cycle. Works great! ![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Seriously, a 3 gallon parts washer is $60 and takes up 2 sq ft of space. Dunno how you'd get accurate torque values on filthy bolts without a decent cleaner, and brakekleen on a paper towel gets old pretty quick. You getting that size, or a big 'un?
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Seriously, a 3 gallon parts washer is $60 and takes up 2 sq ft of space. Dunno how you'd get accurate torque values on filthy bolts without a decent cleaner, and brakekleen on a paper towel gets old pretty quick. You getting that size, or a big 'un?
#10
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The same parts washer is sold with a thousand different brand names on it. Somewhere in Southeast China there's a really big parts washer factory where half the factory is dedicated to printing decals.
Here's the one I bought (have had good luck with fast and reasonable shipping from them), you can probably get it at HF for less. It'll run fine on 1 gallon of odorless mineral spirits, but make a note of the sound the pump makes with fresh fluid. When the tone changes, change it.
http://www.tooltopia.com/atd-tools-8524.aspx
If you have the acreage for it, for incrementally more you could get this, as it would be big enough to do eveything short of the engine block and rear crossmember:
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gall...ump-94702.html
Not sure what minimum volume of fluid you'd need to keep the pickup submerged.
Here's the one I bought (have had good luck with fast and reasonable shipping from them), you can probably get it at HF for less. It'll run fine on 1 gallon of odorless mineral spirits, but make a note of the sound the pump makes with fresh fluid. When the tone changes, change it.
http://www.tooltopia.com/atd-tools-8524.aspx
If you have the acreage for it, for incrementally more you could get this, as it would be big enough to do eveything short of the engine block and rear crossmember:
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gall...ump-94702.html
Not sure what minimum volume of fluid you'd need to keep the pickup submerged.
#11
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So it appears in the pics above that the exhuast is still in place. I have a 1979 with the dual bolted end on the drivers side (passengers side has the welded end style). Can I get the drivers side out without dropping the exhuast (procedure sited in a couple of write ups)?
Thanks
Thanks