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half shaft removal addendum

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Old 07-25-2010, 07:13 PM
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jeff spahn
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Default half shaft removal addendum

Hi-
I replaced my CV boots (all 4) and rebuilt the inner joints this weekend. I used Dwayne's writeup as a starting point but thought there might be an easier way to get the allen bolts off than trying to lie under the car with a ratchet. There is.

A helper makes this much easier to run the emergency brake.

This method makes is easier to seat the allen key socket into the bolt as well.

What differs in my method is using a 20" extension and and going in from the wheel well. Combine that with an air ratchet and it is super fast and easy.

Here's a movie about it too: http://gallery.me.com/jspahn#100307
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:22 PM
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I did that from under the car to get the ones on the hub side. works like a champ!
Old 07-25-2010, 07:27 PM
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Mrmerlin
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also if you dont have a helper,
using a thicker sized screwdriver in the vents of the rotor will lock the rotor in any position you need.
the caliper support will hold the screwdriver in place
Old 07-25-2010, 08:11 PM
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soontobered84
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Wow Jeff,
Where'd you get those good looking springs and shocks installed?(JK)
Coming back for Third Coast?
Beers,
Old 07-25-2010, 08:23 PM
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Rob Edwards
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All you're missing is a grossly overqualified helper!

Old 07-25-2010, 09:08 PM
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Mrmerlin
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Its the hat , its the florescent green hat I tell yaa.....

Oh your talking about your helper, that would be the most honorable Dr Bob
Old 07-25-2010, 10:03 PM
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jeff spahn
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
also if you dont have a helper,
using a thicker sized screwdriver in the vents of the rotor will lock the rotor in any position you need.
the caliper support will hold the screwdriver in place
Damn, never thought of the screwdriver. What a great idea. Well, I'll do it in 20 more years when the boots go bad again. Actually probably gonna need new cv joints in 5 years or so anyway.

Man it sure it nice having a car from California where there is no snow, salt or rain. Everything is like new under there.

With the money I saved doing this myself, I convinced my wife that a parts washer was what we really needed in the garage. I wonder what that will cost me when she gets back from shopping.
Old 07-25-2010, 10:16 PM
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Rob Edwards
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Most houses already have a parts cleaner. Just use the Potscrubber cycle. Works great!

Seriously, a 3 gallon parts washer is $60 and takes up 2 sq ft of space. Dunno how you'd get accurate torque values on filthy bolts without a decent cleaner, and brakekleen on a paper towel gets old pretty quick. You getting that size, or a big 'un?
Old 07-26-2010, 01:51 AM
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redpathtribe
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
Most houses already have a parts cleaner. Just use the Potscrubber cycle. Works great!

Seriously, a 3 gallon parts washer is $60 and takes up 2 sq ft of space. Dunno how you'd get accurate torque values on filthy bolts without a decent cleaner, and brakekleen on a paper towel gets old pretty quick. You getting that size, or a big 'un?
Rob, where's the best place to find a 3 gallon parts washer for $60. Working on another one of our cars, and a parts cleaner would sure be nice.
Old 07-26-2010, 02:04 AM
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Rob Edwards
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The same parts washer is sold with a thousand different brand names on it. Somewhere in Southeast China there's a really big parts washer factory where half the factory is dedicated to printing decals.

Here's the one I bought (have had good luck with fast and reasonable shipping from them), you can probably get it at HF for less. It'll run fine on 1 gallon of odorless mineral spirits, but make a note of the sound the pump makes with fresh fluid. When the tone changes, change it.

http://www.tooltopia.com/atd-tools-8524.aspx

If you have the acreage for it, for incrementally more you could get this, as it would be big enough to do eveything short of the engine block and rear crossmember:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gall...ump-94702.html

Not sure what minimum volume of fluid you'd need to keep the pickup submerged.
Old 07-26-2010, 09:19 AM
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So it appears in the pics above that the exhuast is still in place. I have a 1979 with the dual bolted end on the drivers side (passengers side has the welded end style). Can I get the drivers side out without dropping the exhuast (procedure sited in a couple of write ups)?

Thanks



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