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A couple of things in case you're considering adding a "bee sting" antenna

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Old 08-28-2010, 03:54 PM
  #31  
Mrmerlin
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Nope there is a metal strap that holds the motor secured with on 8mm nut and 2 8mm nuts hold the grear drive the rubber connection between the motor and transmision is a slip fit.

Before removing , see if you can get to the antenna nut without removing either part, some times there is enough room to tighten the nut
Old 08-28-2010, 04:49 PM
  #32  
gbgastowers
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Walmart- $8.00 .Includes cable and requires round hole.All you do is stick it in the hole from above and tighten the nut on top.The lower base locks in place by wedging. Not as elegant looking as yours but looks similar. Gunar

Last edited by gbgastowers; 09-06-2010 at 04:45 PM.
Old 08-28-2010, 07:08 PM
  #33  
Mrmerlin
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Ouch that hurts GB.
You can get a good roof antenna for about 25.00 on Ebay that looks like the original..
Normally the antenna is mounted in the roof not the hatch
Old 08-28-2010, 10:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Ouch that hurts GB.
You can get a good roof antenna for about 25.00 on Ebay that looks like the original..
Normally the antenna is mounted in the roof not the hatch
It looks that bad? The PO had an old silver metal bee sting mounted there so I used that hole. I will upgrade later but I'm
only out $8 for now and the car goes nowhere now anyway. Gunar
Old 08-28-2010, 10:22 PM
  #35  
Mrmerlin
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I had a similar antenna with a metal mast on my 88, it was a nasty rusting piece of junk , it was for the phone, i swapped it out with the 91 antenna
Old 08-28-2010, 10:56 PM
  #36  
dr bob
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For those really interested in rustproofing, conside using somethinglike CRC's "Instant Cold Galvanizing" spray. Does a MIL-quality job on exposed steel. For Paul's antenna hole, I would mask just away from the hole then spray so that all the cut edges of the painted surface top and bottom are covered.

For the ground, an accessory ground from the housing to the sunroof motor bracket would do nicely, maybe a braided ground strap. That would avoid the bare roof metal completely. Keep it short as possible of course. A piece of surplus braided coax shielding works well for this duty.
Old 08-28-2010, 11:29 PM
  #37  
M. Requin
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The major advantage of mounting it on the hatch is that it is easier to replace the hatch than the roof, which is, after all, a more likely eventuality, given other parts of the hatch's design that contribute to corrosion. Also, IMHO, it is a better looking solution. The downside, of course, is that it is marginally more difficult.
Old 08-29-2010, 01:56 AM
  #38  
dr bob
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Challenge with the hatch mount is how to get the cable routed witout allowing leaks, and howto keep the cable from flex-fracturing where it would have to pass from hatch to the rest of the car. In aperfect install it would have a twsit in it that would not inlude any bends, making a lateral at the top edge of the hatch the only goood option.
Old 05-16-2011, 12:12 AM
  #39  
Rod Handsfield
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The rubber insulation on the base of the mast is falling off in chunks. Who sells an OEM or acceptable replacement? BTW this is on a 91 S4. thanks, Rod
Old 05-16-2011, 08:34 AM
  #40  
finally!
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Ive got an extra cable or tow laying around, brand new, if anyone needs them. PM me..
Old 05-16-2011, 10:27 AM
  #41  
Gary Knox
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Rod,

You can buy a new antenna base from any of the 928 suppliers or Porsche (I think). Or, you can get a near duplicate from Enfig Car Stereo (I think it is www.enfig.com) for $9.99. However, the antenna connection there is a bayonet type, so an adapter would be needed for the screw connection OE wiring in the 928 (or replace that wiring with one bayonet male and female ends).

Gary Knox



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