blandis

Buttoned up the TB/WP, valve covers, and Intake refresh about a half hour ago.

Everything seemed to go well. Started it and runs like it has a few plug wires swapped. I triple checked the order, they are good. I did not replace the ends, just the wires from Roger. Put the ends on the meter and they seem to be fine. No doubt getting fuel....smells rich.

I have a wire tester, type you just hold on the wire while its running and it flashes red each time it fires. Number 7 seems to pulse and not fire regularly like the others. I swapped and old wire for 7 but did not help. Just thought that seemed weird.

Its 10 PM and time to quit for the evening, but will start trying to figure it all out in the morning. Any advice as to something I could have missed or something I should check?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Mrmerlin

start the engine in the dark and look for fireflies on the plug wires.
pay attention to the coil wires,
and the caps and coil tops .
also inspect the wires and how they run along the cam covers

AO

Double check that your dist caps are on tight. Quadruple check the wires - it is easy to mix a couple up.

Imo000

Also check the wires againt the numbering on the timing belt cover.

blandis

Just started it, only plug wire that was arching (against the valve cover) was the old one I used for 7. Pulled it up out of the way and it quit.

Will rework all the wires first thing in the morning. Plug #7 was pretty black when I pulled it earlier today compared to the others. Will pull them all tomorrow and see what they look like. Only have about 5 minutes run time on them.

AO

Here's what how the wires should connect. Look at the lower left corner where it shows the distributors. Also make sure the wires are fully seated both in the distributor as well as the spark plug.

blandis

Thanks Andrew.

I took all of them apart and made sure the ends were screwed in correctly. It acted like I did not get one or two connected.

I will start with plugs, wires, and caps/rotors first thing in the morning. Probably something obvious that I missed.

Tails

Brad,

Did you actually checked the resistance of the the plug connectors with a multimeter and compared the their resistance values as shown within the WSM?

Have you checked the connectors, plug end and the wire connectors for corrosion?

Have you checked the earth of the T 2 sensor, seeing that you have refreshed the inlet manifold?

Have you checked the earths and connectors to the coils for cleaniness and corrosion?

Have you checked the distributor caps for cracks and arcing and have you cleaned up the the rotor ends and the distributer brass pieces for arcing residue?

Have you checked the spark plug wiring for arcing. Best done at night in a dark garage with engine running.

Have you checked the clearance of spark plug electrode end and the body of the spark plugs?

Have you cleaned the spark plugs of any carbon residue?

This is not a definative list.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

blandis

Headed out to start working on it. Plugs are new. Wires, cap, rotor, every sensor ect.

I did check ends, had one that tested 2.88 rest were 3 or just over. Cap ends were all right at 1.

Will report back later after some more troubleshooting and see what I can eliminate. Ran ok before tearing into it so I have something crossed, not hooked up etc.

blandis

New plugs, checked all wires. Pulled caps rotors seem fine.

Here is the old plugs I pulled out that have maybe 5 minutes run time. 2,3,4, 6, 7 are black (got lots of fuel).

I did use an old set of wires and swapped out 1-4 and did not help then did 5-8 and no change.

Pulling new ones right now.

the flyin' scotsman

Are the injectors wired correctly?

#1 and #5 dont look like theyre coloured at all.

928 at last

Don't know if your refresh included injectors, but when I put mine back together, I had one bad injector in the set and a 'noid light made the diagnosis much easier.
I thought I had an ignition problem at first too.
If the niod light indicates the injector is getting a signal, (in this case 1 & 5), a light tap on the injector can free up a slightly stuck one. (Please also note that this is not a recommended procedure !) Bench testing the suspect units is better, and allows for chemical remediation techniques which are prefereable to the brute force and ignorance approach. (Mind you, both work.....) But the latter can get expensive.
There's threads here that can help, but to cut it down, use a mechanic's stethescope to determine if each injector is indeed firing. The click is obvious. If one isn't sounding as loud as the other known good ones, there may be a problem. (sound migration can make this a little tricky, so be sure to contact the base of the injector with the stethescope, not the rail or other parts). The stethescopes can be had on the cheap. You don't need a pro one for this job. Pull the suspect units and apply voltage to the terminals with a good 9 volt battery. (The one from the smoke detector works nicely, but put a fresh one back in the detector). Again, the click when the injector actuates is obvious.

If you've got a problem unit, you can try flushing with carb/ injector cleaner to get the gum out and free it up. I understand brake cleaner works well too.

Remember, it's all flammable, govern yourself accordingly. Good luck!

blandis

Worked my way backwards to injectors. Did put 19# fords in it. Got orings from Roger. Am going to bench test them today and see if they are working correctly.

AO

You didn't tell us this.

Just went through this with someone else this past spring. Two of his new injectors would not fire. You'll see fuel stuck in the top of the injectors. I believe you can use a 9v battery to energize the injector to get it to "click" We tried this on the two bad ones. They clicked, but still would not pass fuel.

soontobered84

Brad,
If the injectors WERE rebuilt/refurbished as the PO claimed, it could be that they are just gummed up or something. I use Berryman's and a mityvac to draw a vacuum backwards through the injector as I power the injector. I rigged an old injector harness and a switch so I can power it on and off. I have had goo results from this getting injectors un-gummed,