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Old 07-12-2010, 05:40 PM
  #31  
VehiGAZ
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Originally Posted by tylenol
Hey I just wrote a book here dont leave me hangin....I was about 60 miles away after buying the car when it just quit I mean I was going 65 mph outside of minneapolis and boom nothing would turn over but not run. Had it towed to courtny truck service in minneapolis. It took them about a week to discover it was the LH said it was extremly flooded. They put the new Lh in and I had it shipped to Kansas City. The dealer drained the tank because they said the gas smelled like turpintine. Like I said the car has been doing a lot of sitting.
A book?? HAH!! Ty, that was no more than chapter 1, page 1. If you want to see a real book of problems, there are plenty of them on this forum.

It is very helpful to us to get the full chronology of events in a single post instead of spread over multiple posts on multiple pages in multiple time sequences.

You very well may have confounding or concurrent problems going on, which can make these situations real head-scratchers.

Anyway, the flooding can definitely be attributed to a bad LH. And I'm sure the fuel was part turpentine after sitting for god knows how long (worst thing for these cars). Did it run right when it arrived in KC?

If the fuel was really that bad, you may have gummed-up fuel lines/filter/pump, even a collapsing soft fuel line? Ugh - could be a lot of things. Whatever you do though, stay away from your local Porsche dealer.
Old 07-12-2010, 05:49 PM
  #32  
tylenol
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Don't toy with the boy, AO, you KNOW why the dealer did that - to make a bunch of money without knowing what's wrong!!


The owner of the dealership is a close friend...they charged me $150 in labor and I sourced the MAf from Mr. Ott
Old 07-12-2010, 05:56 PM
  #33  
tylenol
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Did it run right when it arrived in KC?

For about a day...then it started the acting like it was cold thing feather the gas and clutch for 2 or 3 minutes and then it would run. This went on for about a week until it finaly would not warm up so to speak. THats when I had it towed to dealership.

Have patience guys very new to this...my last porsche was a cayenne had very little trouble. But I knew what I was getting into always wanted a 928 just trying to find my way. Thanks
Old 07-12-2010, 06:00 PM
  #34  
AO
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I would construct 3 relay jumpers. One for the Fuel pump, one for the LH, and one for the ignition relay. Use search to find how to do this. WallyP has a number of poses on this IIRC.

When the problem rears it's ugly head, jumper said 3 relays. If the problem persists, it's not the relays, and you can look elsewhere. However, my guess is you will find your problem has gone away.

Replace the relays, one-by-one (over time) and see if the problem comes back. When it does, you've found the culprit, hopefully.
Old 07-12-2010, 06:03 PM
  #35  
auzivision
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Fair price on the MAF and a good guess, thought it fixed, but it didn't... sound really, really familiar.

{BTW, AO... I have your MAF off my car, but I’m waiting on the box to ship it in. I used your box to ship my MAF to Infection Labs in Boulder. I thought I'd just bring it to Hell if that's soon enough? If not, I can ship it to you in a different box and just give you box back in hell (your call).}

Okay, back on subject… swap the fuel pump relay with the horn relay. Don’t ask why, just do it. See chart, change year if not appropriate:
https://www.928gt.com/t-8788fuse.aspx
See XX? Don't forget to count any vacant slots. Does that fix it? Y/N

Y = go for drive, but stay close to home in case you need to pull it home.

N = Have your friend (or do it yourself) pull the plastic fuel rail cover off the passenger side (two allen bolts) and look for the shrader valve (same kind you see on your tires), check fuel pressure.

I’d bet a mini Keg of Bell’s Oberon for the Hell meeting it’s either your fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
Old 07-12-2010, 06:11 PM
  #36  
auzivision
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You know... for $5.00, you could just eliminate those thoughts all together.

http://s287999742.e-shop.info/shop/a...51%2520253B%26
Old 07-12-2010, 06:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by auzivision
{BTW, AO... I have your MAF off my car, but I’m waiting on the box to ship it in. I used your box to ship my MAF to Infection Labs in Boulder. I thought I'd just bring it to Hell if that's soon enough? If not, I can ship it to you in a different box and just give you box back in hell (your call).}
No worries. Bring it with you.

Okay, back on subject… swap the fuel pump relay with the horn relay. Don’t ask why, just do it. See chart, change year if not appropriate:
https://www.928gt.com/t-8788fuse.aspx
See XX? Don't forget to count any vacant slots. Does that fix it? Y/N

Y = go for drive, but stay close to home in case you need to pull it home.

N = Have your friend (or do it yourself) pull the plastic fuel rail cover off the passenger side (two allen bolts) and look for the shrader valve (same kind you see on your tires), check fuel pressure.

I’d bet a mini Keg of Bell’s Oberon for the Hell meeting it’s either your fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
I'll take that bet. My guess is ignition relay or an ignition component. Explains the lack of power and the flooded engine (no ignition of the fuel).
Old 07-12-2010, 06:37 PM
  #38  
tylenol
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Thanks for the help...got plenty to do tonight. I will let you all know.
Old 07-12-2010, 06:44 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
I'll take that bet. My guess is ignition relay or an ignition component. Explains the lack of power and the flooded engine (no ignition of the fuel).
Okay, it's a deal... I’ll give you EZK for ignition and I get LH since it’s for fueling.

I'm guessing the flooded engine was a mis-diagnosis…. just like the bad MAF and LH were mis-diagnosed (I’m guessing).

Ignition, maybe… that’s fair. An engine only needs three things to run… fuel, air, and ignition… well yeah, coolant too if you want to run for a while. I guess we all agree it’s getting air.

If it something physically wrong with the ignition, do you think it would come and go? I suppose maybe if it’s a bad /loose connection somewhere. Crack/leaking ignition wires will pretty much act up all the time (more so when wet). It’s been mentioned several time how to test the plug wires and coils. Make sure all the wires are nice and snug. You would presume one of the competent mechanics that diagnosed the MAF and LH would have ruled something as simple as this out first (I don’t care if they did work for a ‘dealership’, that’s not 928 specific).

If it something mentally (I mean electronically) wrong with the ignition, that’s a little harder to pin down, especially since it’s intermittent. Given the LH and MAF are new/rebuilt, it’s fair to rule those out (usually true when replaced). Sure that leaves the EZK, relays and connections.

There is enough info it this thread to troubleshoot to the next level.
Old 07-12-2010, 07:22 PM
  #40  
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I'm thinking at this stage that a spate of relay relay relay, plus some concentrated grounds cleaning, disassemble the jump start terminal and clean the contacts there, and pull the 14 way plug by the jump start terminal and examine/clean the contacts (he did mention that it happened on onccasion just after washing the car) will remove a whole bunch of variables from the equation and is also just good practice anyway.

I'm also thinking pull the coil leads and examine then refit ensuring they are properly seated. Also check the dissy caps and rotor arms - I have come across wierd behaviour from the carbon centre contacts becoming loose and rotor arms starting to come apart.

Another possibility - if the car can be got running "normallY" would be to wiggle the ignition key to see if that has any affect.



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