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Thermistor value

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Old 06-14-2011, 10:08 PM
  #16  
St3mpy
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I've got it, but it doesn't cover the early 944 climate system in depth like it does for the later models. I've been looking for a late 924 manual but haven't come across anything. So is the Climate Book part of the 928 Work Shop manual?

I was able to source the part I needed, so all is well. I'll head back to "my side" of the forums now.
Old 01-12-2018, 01:53 AM
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Dmhager
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The Newark link was not working for me so I researched several thermistors that approximate the factory sensor specs. The one I purchased from digikey and tested is listed as an NTC 470 ohm, 5% thermistor. That means Negative Temperature Coefficient (i.e., lower resistance at higher temps), 470 ohm at 25C, 5% error. There are others, but I liked the one with this small encapsulated bead and long leads. I soldered the thermistor to leads to the harness connector, potted it with polyurethane, encapsulated it in shrink tubing and placed in the alternator duct. Sensor cost was under $2.

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...cTlmZVpuIn0%3D
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Old 01-12-2018, 07:36 PM
  #18  
dr bob
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Default In case the Digikey Link Dies...

Here's a screenshot of the datasheet referenced above:

Old 11-17-2018, 04:35 PM
  #19  
Speedtoys
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Related:

Chasing down why I cant dial in a warm temp with the AC on..its always quite cold..but as I ask for 70, 75, 80d, nothing much happens.

If I crank it up, it does get warm.

If the AC is off, I can dial in temps just fine.

I get 650ohm at the outside sender here in the shop today, thats normal.

At the mixer motor (https://www.928gt.com/T-WallyHVAC.aspx) tween pins 4 and 12, I get 4100ohm at full cold (ac off) and about 5000ohm at full hot. Its a $12 meter, so..close enough??
Old 11-17-2018, 05:07 PM
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.....just pulled to check the flap motor seems to work fine, didn't need much cleaning either.
Old 11-17-2018, 06:37 PM
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Are you trying to get hot air from the top of the center vents? Mine offers warm on the bottom half with heat, cold ac or cold fresh from the top half. The thumb switch diverter in the vent will block the top half if needed.
Old 11-17-2018, 09:11 PM
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Ya. In fact I am.

I do feel wisps if hot air trying to come out the center..

Air flow our the door vents is weeeeak.
Old 11-18-2018, 12:22 AM
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The Forgotten On
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Have you adjusted the mixer flaps?

You can do this by taking out the glove box, loosening the single bolt holding the two arms together and pulling them apart from each other. Then tighten the nut.
Old 11-18-2018, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by The Forgotten On
Have you adjusted the mixer flaps?

You can do this by taking out the glove box, loosening the single bolt holding the two arms together and pulling them apart from each other. Then tighten the nut.
I have not.ill look or a writeup on this.
Old 08-08-2021, 02:39 PM
  #25  
Koenig-Specials 928
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Originally Posted by Dmhager
The Newark link was not working for me so I researched several thermistors that approximate the factory sensor specs. The one I purchased from digikey and tested is listed as an NTC 470 ohm, 5% thermistor. That means Negative Temperature Coefficient (i.e., lower resistance at higher temps), 470 ohm at 25C, 5% error. There are others, but I liked the one with this small encapsulated bead and long leads. I soldered the thermistor to leads to the harness connector, potted it with polyurethane, encapsulated it in shrink tubing and placed in the alternator duct. Sensor cost was under $2. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...cTlmZVpuIn0%3D ..........


I found my alternator cooling hose missing and the Thermistor. Don't know how or why.
Do I just solder these to the existing wires left hanging?

Please and thanks




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