Whiskey Tango Fuel Level Sender?
#31
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They were straight when I got the car, I pulled the suspension during the rebuild, put it all back together, didn't change a thing height-wise, got the car re-aligned, did a bunch of WOT tuning, and the next time I look under the car, both sides' rear Ott links are bent. Dunno what happened.
Next job is to pull the Koni/Eibachs and swap in Bilstein/factory springs, and then put the ride height up a bit. Hopefully I won't bend the replacements....
EDIT- That's not strictly true- I added Carl's Adjustable sway bar mounting brackets. Now that I look at the pics on his website, I noticed a little something- One pic shows the stock droplinks bolts to the innermost mounting point. I connected mine to the 'adjustable' mounting points, without adjusting the length of the Ott links. That might just be why I bent them as soon as I put the car on the ground..... What a maroon I am!
Carl's pic showing the proper setup with stock drop links: http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ount/RSBM3.jpg
Mine before the car touched the ground again:
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
EDIT- That's not strictly true- I added Carl's Adjustable sway bar mounting brackets. Now that I look at the pics on his website, I noticed a little something- One pic shows the stock droplinks bolts to the innermost mounting point. I connected mine to the 'adjustable' mounting points, without adjusting the length of the Ott links. That might just be why I bent them as soon as I put the car on the ground..... What a maroon I am!
Carl's pic showing the proper setup with stock drop links: http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ount/RSBM3.jpg
Mine before the car touched the ground again:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/GTS%20rear%20susp%20and%20tranny%20LR%201-24-10.jpg)
Last edited by Rob Edwards; 07-19-2010 at 12:54 PM.
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They were straight when I got the car, I pulled the suspension during the rebuild, put it all back together, didn't change a thing height-wise, got the car re-aligned, did a bunch of WOT tuning, and the next time I look under the car, both sides' rear Ott links are bent. Dunno what happened.
Next job is to pull the Koni/Eibachs and swap in Bilstein/factory springs, and then put the ride height up a bit. Hopefully I won't bend the replacements....
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#34
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Ahh this car was on a Dyno???
that explains the bent rods some knucklehead used the swaybar links to tie down the car prolly side to side.
At OCIC in TX. I saw them trying to tie down Louie Otts car by using the blade portion of the rear cross memebers and the swaybar links on the front.
I got it straightened out .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7xYhCrmtCU
that explains the bent rods some knucklehead used the swaybar links to tie down the car prolly side to side.
At OCIC in TX. I saw them trying to tie down Louie Otts car by using the blade portion of the rear cross memebers and the swaybar links on the front.
I got it straightened out .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7xYhCrmtCU
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 07-19-2010 at 01:04 PM.
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Sorry, edited my last post with additional pics and my idiocy. The whole point of adding Carl's rear swaybar mounts was to have the tie-down hooks for dynoing (and flatbedding, it's a 928 after all... ) purposes. The flatbed operator that took the finished car to Greg's used the tie-downs, and we used the brackets at Greg's shop multiple times without problems. I just re-installed the droplinks to the wrong position, without re-adjusting their length.
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Rob, did you ever discover what caused your gas tank to implode? mine has done the same in the same location as yours. I also used compressed air to push it back into shape.
Thanks, Joe
Thanks, Joe
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Joe-
'Fraid the car hasn't moved off the jackstands since I put it all back together, I was out of town the last 10 days. I really don't think I magically cured anything, but I blew through every vent line and went thru the charcoal canister system and all was clear.
I've gotta have the car mobile by next Tuesday in order to take it up to Greg's for a little noodling, so I'll drive it around this weekend and report back.
'Fraid the car hasn't moved off the jackstands since I put it all back together, I was out of town the last 10 days. I really don't think I magically cured anything, but I blew through every vent line and went thru the charcoal canister system and all was clear.
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#39
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Thanks Rob, I'm in the same boat. If I find anything I'll post it too.
Thanks, Joe
Thanks, Joe
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Was looking for something else and came across this in the '87 service info. It describes the operation of the diaphragm valve and the solenoid valve for metering fuel vapor back to the intake. If I'm reading it correctly, it seems to me that if the solenoid valve doesn't receive power, it opens. I wonder then if it fails in the open position (and the diaphragm valve is open any time there's intake vacuum), would the entire fuel tank vent system be directly connected to intake vacuum anytime the engine's running? And if so, might that not collapse the tank while, say, hooning around with one's new stroker motor?
Guess I could hook up my spanner and see if the solenoid is good...
Guess I could hook up my spanner and see if the solenoid is good...
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Tan%20vent%20schematic%2087%20service%20info%209-3-10.jpg)
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Wouldn't it just be pulling outside through the vent pipe at the rear of the car, through the carbon cannister?
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You are clearly better at recognizing the completely obvious than I am ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So much for that theory! I think I'll just have to go out and drive around a lot this weekend and see whether I fixed it.....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So much for that theory! I think I'll just have to go out and drive around a lot this weekend and see whether I fixed it.....
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FWIW Rob, My car was fine as long as I was driving around town, and local freeway driving. My tank got sucked in while I was on my road trip. Thats when the sender started giving erratic readings. When the car sat the gauge would go to what ever level the fuel was in the tank, till I got on the road and drove at a sustained speed for an hour or more then the gauge would slowly move up to the full mark. I'm waiting on some parts and havn't gotten a chance to pull my right front fender liner and start blowing out the lines. I'll post my findings over this weekend.
As a side note Greg Nettles has a customers car thats is doing the same as ours. He said that he would post whatever he finds out as well.
As a side note Greg Nettles has a customers car thats is doing the same as ours. He said that he would post whatever he finds out as well.
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Here's what I found. I pulled the right front fender liner to get to the carbon cannister. When I got the cannister down where I could look at it, I found that the PO, or someone he paid to fix the "Y" at the cannister, used soft plastic tubing instead of reinforced fuel line. This cheap crap collapsed, and caused my gas tank to collapse, cause there was no way to vent the system. I took my compresior and blew out the vent line while everything was apart. It was clear.
I put in a new sender in the tank and replaced all the soft rubber lines while I was looking for the problem. I'm lucky I have small hands, I reached down into the gas tank and put the cover ring back on the baffel. The lip on the bung for the tank is sharp as a razor, ask me how I know. My car doesn't have the inside tank pump only the screen. Put 12 gallons of fuel in, and the gauge is working, it registered almost a half tank of fuel. Not sure if it's accurate. Better than full all the time.
I put in a new sender in the tank and replaced all the soft rubber lines while I was looking for the problem. I'm lucky I have small hands, I reached down into the gas tank and put the cover ring back on the baffel. The lip on the bung for the tank is sharp as a razor, ask me how I know. My car doesn't have the inside tank pump only the screen. Put 12 gallons of fuel in, and the gauge is working, it registered almost a half tank of fuel. Not sure if it's accurate. Better than full all the time.
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On Tuesday I drove the 15 miles or so to Greg's shop and by the time I got there, the damn tank had re-collapsed a little (should have just unscrewed the gas cap....) Anyway, I threw in the towel and asked Greg to fix it. He re-reinflated the tank, and found that the tank vent solenoid valve was open all the time, regardless of 12V to it or not. So he put in a good one and after we drove around a good bit today the tank did not collapse. Why this fixed it I do not know, but as long as it stays fixed, I'm happy.....