Should I check rod bearings?
#1
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Should I check rod bearings?
I need a word of wise advice from 928 gurus.
My 928GT currently has oil pan off for OPG and MM job.
The question is: should I take 2/6 rod caps off and take a look at bearings - or is it better to not touch anything and just leave it as it is now?
Engine has 240K Kms on it and runs great, pulls strong and generally seems to be in OK condition. Car was never tracked.
Also, I believe noone ever touched bearings.
So, what should I do?
Thanks in advance for any advices!
My 928GT currently has oil pan off for OPG and MM job.
The question is: should I take 2/6 rod caps off and take a look at bearings - or is it better to not touch anything and just leave it as it is now?
Engine has 240K Kms on it and runs great, pulls strong and generally seems to be in OK condition. Car was never tracked.
Also, I believe noone ever touched bearings.
So, what should I do?
Thanks in advance for any advices!
#3
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+1. Mine were fine at 112K miles, but I changed 'em anyway. Takes about 15 minutes with the pan off (and the engine out.... 55 ft-lbs!!!!!
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Also, is it okay to take them off and then reinstall them back? (ofc they go back only if they are good).
Some engine guy here told me that it's either "do not touch" or "replace with new" - is he wrong?
Some engine guy here told me that it's either "do not touch" or "replace with new" - is he wrong?
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Well, you'd sure better replace the nuts, they're single use only. I put in a quartet of 'yellow' Porsche bearing shells, 0.0591" thick. If you've gone to the trouble of taking them out, why would you put worn ones back in? They're not that expensive ( though looking thru my records it appears I never paid Greg for mine. Oops...)
#6
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I do have 4 spare rod nuts, but I don't have the rod bearings and it will take another month to get them in case I need to replace.
Well, I didn't actually plan on replacing them initially, was only going to check (since I'm pretty sure that they are still within specs). Although, my previous message tells why I'm considering not even checking them now.
Some opinions on the "either replace with new or do not touch" idea?
Well, I didn't actually plan on replacing them initially, was only going to check (since I'm pretty sure that they are still within specs). Although, my previous message tells why I'm considering not even checking them now.
Some opinions on the "either replace with new or do not touch" idea?
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I do have 4 spare rod nuts, but I don't have the rod bearings and it will take another month to get them in case I need to replace.
Well, I didn't actually plan on replacing them initially, was only going to check (since I'm pretty sure that they are still within specs). Although, my previous message tells why I'm considering not even checking them now.
Some opinions on the "either replace with new or do not touch" idea?
Well, I didn't actually plan on replacing them initially, was only going to check (since I'm pretty sure that they are still within specs). Although, my previous message tells why I'm considering not even checking them now.
Some opinions on the "either replace with new or do not touch" idea?
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#9
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Make sure you keep them straight as to where they came from. You don't want to mix them up.
In fact, you should only have to pull either #2 or #6, not both.
One tip someone gave me was to put some hose or rubber tubing on the threaded end of the rod so you don't chance scoring the crank.
Take pics.
In fact, you should only have to pull either #2 or #6, not both.
One tip someone gave me was to put some hose or rubber tubing on the threaded end of the rod so you don't chance scoring the crank.
Take pics.
#11
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Like most other parts, bearings have wear limits, you could measure the clearance with plasti-gage, or you could just visually inspect either way if they look good by all means reuse them. Even piston rings have wear limits, pop the ring off the piston, slip it into the worn section of the bore and measure the gap.
Personally I wouldn't replace the nuts, just a lick of Loctite thread locker and retension, BUT I'm only a mechanic of 25 yrs and it would be my own vehicle.
Cheers Roy
Personally I wouldn't replace the nuts, just a lick of Loctite thread locker and retension, BUT I'm only a mechanic of 25 yrs and it would be my own vehicle.
Cheers Roy
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I replaced mine in an S4 at appx 155k..they were fine but i replaced them anyway. All had good uniform wear to my novice eye. As Andrew says, cover the threads when installing the caps.
Also, get a silicone pan gasket and a stud set for it, you will never have a leak again.
Also, get a silicone pan gasket and a stud set for it, you will never have a leak again.
#14
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I replaced mine in an S4 at appx 155k..they were fine but i replaced them anyway. All had good uniform wear to my novice eye. As Andrew says, cover the threads when installing the caps.
Also, get a silicone pan gasket and a stud set for it, you will never have a leak again.
Also, get a silicone pan gasket and a stud set for it, you will never have a leak again.
Michael