Freeze 12
06-21-2010, 02:05 AM
#1
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Freeze 12
I bought my 1987 928 S4 a few days ago (see below) with AC blowing "lukewarm" There's a sticker under the hood indicating that Freeze 12 system was put in 2004. Should I attempt to recharge system with Freeze 12 again or is there a better way to go? The car sat in a garage for the last few months, and maybe for the last 2-3 years with few miles put on. Thanks!
06-21-2010, 09:54 AM
#2
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First, do some research here on the system, including going to our web site, go to the tips and links, then Wally's World, then HVAC and reading the paper there.
Make sure that the heater valve isn't the problem.
Lots of opinions on refrigerants.
My suggestion is to convert to R-134a or go back to R-12.
R-12:
- That is what the car was designed for.
- The proper oil is probably in the system.
- Pretty expensive, requires certification to buy (easy to get certified).
R-134a:
- Works fine if properly converted.
- Cheapest refrigerant - $5 at Big Lots, $7 at Walmart.
- Standard and legal. You can get a R-134a system serviced anywhere.
- You will need to change the oil or at least add POE oil.
Freeze-12:
- Composite, so you don't know exactly what is in the system.
- Expensive.
- Not standard, very few commercial shops will touch the car.
You can go the easy way and add Freeze-12 when the system stops cooling. Or, you can go to some trouble and have a better system. This would include:
- Change as many O-rings as you can get to.
- Change the oil (if you convert to R-134a).
- Change the receiver dryer (best practice, but you might can get away without doing it - but if there is moisture in the system you are screwed).
- Clean between the condenser and radiator.
- Pump the system down and add the proper quantity of refrigerant.
- Test the vacuum system and repair leaks.
- Check the heater valve.
Make sure that the heater valve isn't the problem.
Lots of opinions on refrigerants.
My suggestion is to convert to R-134a or go back to R-12.
R-12:
- That is what the car was designed for.
- The proper oil is probably in the system.
- Pretty expensive, requires certification to buy (easy to get certified).
R-134a:
- Works fine if properly converted.
- Cheapest refrigerant - $5 at Big Lots, $7 at Walmart.
- Standard and legal. You can get a R-134a system serviced anywhere.
- You will need to change the oil or at least add POE oil.
Freeze-12:
- Composite, so you don't know exactly what is in the system.
- Expensive.
- Not standard, very few commercial shops will touch the car.
You can go the easy way and add Freeze-12 when the system stops cooling. Or, you can go to some trouble and have a better system. This would include:
- Change as many O-rings as you can get to.
- Change the oil (if you convert to R-134a).
- Change the receiver dryer (best practice, but you might can get away without doing it - but if there is moisture in the system you are screwed).
- Clean between the condenser and radiator.
- Pump the system down and add the proper quantity of refrigerant.
- Test the vacuum system and repair leaks.
- Check the heater valve.
06-21-2010, 10:11 AM
#3
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I have used a lot of freeze12 over the years, IMHO better than R134A in the hot south, the pressures on the high side are not near as high when it is 95 outside.
I guess I am the only one here who hates 134, but if I had the choice I would convert back to R-12.
I agree with Wally, most likely a heater valve or some other problem, check your lines at the expansion block to see if one is hot and one is cold, that will tell you if the gas side is working.
I guess I am the only one here who hates 134, but if I had the choice I would convert back to R-12.
I agree with Wally, most likely a heater valve or some other problem, check your lines at the expansion block to see if one is hot and one is cold, that will tell you if the gas side is working.
First, do some research here on the system, including going to our web site, go to the tips and links, then Wally's World, then HVAC and reading the paper there.
Make sure that the heater valve isn't the problem.
Lots of opinions on refrigerants.
My suggestion is to convert to R-134a or go back to R-12.
R-12:
- That is what the car was designed for.
- The proper oil is probably in the system.
- Pretty expensive, requires certification to buy (easy to get certified).
R-134a:
- Works fine if properly converted.
- Cheapest refrigerant - $5 at Big Lots, $7 at Walmart.
- Standard and legal. You can get a R-134a system serviced anywhere.
- You will need to change the oil or at least add POE oil.
Freeze-12:
- Composite, so you don't know exactly what is in the system.
- Expensive.
- Not standard, very few commercial shops will touch the car.
You can go the easy way and add Freeze-12 when the system stops cooling. Or, you can go to some trouble and have a better system. This would include:
- Change as many O-rings as you can get to.
- Change the oil (if you convert to R-134a).
- Change the receiver dryer (best practice, but you might can get away without doing it - but if there is moisture in the system you are screwed).
- Clean between the condenser and radiator.
- Pump the system down and add the proper quantity of refrigerant.
- Test the vacuum system and repair leaks.
- Check the heater valve.
Make sure that the heater valve isn't the problem.
Lots of opinions on refrigerants.
My suggestion is to convert to R-134a or go back to R-12.
R-12:
- That is what the car was designed for.
- The proper oil is probably in the system.
- Pretty expensive, requires certification to buy (easy to get certified).
R-134a:
- Works fine if properly converted.
- Cheapest refrigerant - $5 at Big Lots, $7 at Walmart.
- Standard and legal. You can get a R-134a system serviced anywhere.
- You will need to change the oil or at least add POE oil.
Freeze-12:
- Composite, so you don't know exactly what is in the system.
- Expensive.
- Not standard, very few commercial shops will touch the car.
You can go the easy way and add Freeze-12 when the system stops cooling. Or, you can go to some trouble and have a better system. This would include:
- Change as many O-rings as you can get to.
- Change the oil (if you convert to R-134a).
- Change the receiver dryer (best practice, but you might can get away without doing it - but if there is moisture in the system you are screwed).
- Clean between the condenser and radiator.
- Pump the system down and add the proper quantity of refrigerant.
- Test the vacuum system and repair leaks.
- Check the heater valve.
06-21-2010, 12:54 PM
#6
Racer
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there is another r 12 replacement called hotshot.not sure if its is the same as freeze 12 .not sure if you can even get r 12 anymore. i'm down to my last 30 lb can.i advise any of my commecial refrig customers to convert to 134.cheapest especially if you don't get the leak and have to charge it every year.
