jpitman2

To avoid spinning the threaded insert moulded into the tank, soak some kroil or other penetrating stuff onto the rubber gasket area where the intank fitting is screwed in. Use as litle force as possible to try to loosen it, or the tank is toast as I have remarked before. You will need the car jacked up pretty high to make extraction of the cradle easy. The filler neck is retained by a short M8 cap screw up at the filler flap....watch out that this doesnt get over stressed. There is also a breather hose that goes through the body frame to the vapour tank to the rear of the filler flap, in case you try to remove the whole thing - if you look inside through the top access the crud in the bottom may incline you to clean it - mine did, but it had spent 10 years in Arabia.
I would seriously suggest you go for a stock external pump (or equivalent), and replace the intank with a pick up filter - as long as your thread version is available - ask Roger to check based on VIN. My wrench recommended tightening anything into the tank threads barely more than hand tight, and with antisieze on the threads - basically JUST tight enough to prevent a leak.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

jwillman

Thanks for the input. I don't intend on dropping the tank at this point. Plan is to support the tank in place and drop the rear end of the craddle to allow better access to the in-tank pump.

Has anyone tried this before?

jwillman

Any bench checks for these pumps?

PO has in in-tank pump in the parts box that came with the car. Just don't know if it one intended to replace the on ein the car and where it was sourced.

vze2jshn

I recently encounterd a somewhat similar problem. I foound a loose wire connecting the 0.4 and 0.6 resistors in the ignition circuit. These are located on the fender of the drivers side below and forward of the ignition coil. You may want to check condition of the wires and maybe test resistors.

jwillman

So I would love some confirmation of how I read this wiring diagram before I end up blowing the car in place (accidentially of course)

As I read it the under tank pump and the in-tank pump are wired off the same power source and gnd. I have removed the under tank pump so in order to check voltage at the intank I would need to connect the under tank pump power wire to the ground in order to get power to the in-tank pump, correct?

jwillman

New update. I discovered an in tank pump in the parts box that came with the car. When I apply 12V to it it spins up nicely so appears to work.

I also decided to try the same with the under tank pump that I broke the positive post off trying to remove assuming it was bad as it was surging. With 12V on a bench it spun up nicely and pushed out the remaining fuel with good pressure, no surging as apparent as when installed.

So apparently my problem lies up stream of the under tank pump.

I have been draining the fuel from the tank assuming I only had a couple of gallons as the gas guage is on the list of things that need fixing. I have now drained nearly 5 gallons and it is still flowing a bit. I am draing from the supply line to the under tank pump and it has been flowing slower than I would have thought. Not sure if this is indicative of a clogged in-tank pump or normal for a system with an in- tank pump. Any input?

I also don't see any kind of a seal between the in tank pump and the tank in the PET. Surely there is a gasket or seal?