I was finishing up installing my TB (Gates Racing ), WP (a new Laso modified by Ed) and a Pksn'r (the only way to fly IMHO) and once I had the belt on and rotated the whole shebang to check the timing marks, both cams were retarded by one tooth. I know the cams did not rotate while the old belt was off (I marked the edge of each gear with a dot of White-out opposite the cam timing mark to make sure I got everything right at 45 BTDC.) or while installing the new belt. When I pulled the old WP off, I noticed that the pointer was installed 180deg out of correct position. This moved the pointer about 1" clockwise from the correct position relative to the crank. I suspect that when the last person did the TB/WP job they set the relationship of the cams and crank off by one tooth without even knowing it, due to the pointer being incorrectly positioned. Now I am just hoping that they did not reset the position of the cam gears on the cam shafts to get the car to run as well as it seemed to run since I bought it. i have to replace the fuel lines and change the water bridge gaskets tomorrow before I can start her up and see how it runs. Feel free to chime in with any info or bets that a) the cam timing will have to be reset now that I have all the base timing correct or b) that I will gain a whole new level of grins from having the correct cam timing, or c) there will be no change as the relationship of the timing marks has not changed.

Thoughts?

 

you can double check your work by using the timing cover pointer to verify crank position and then check the cams with the covers off

 

My thoughts are you should always check the cam timing and TDC (to insure the harmonic ballancer has not moved) on a 928 with a dial indicator or one of kens tools when doing a Timing belt.

 

I have the timing marks correct now. At TDC both cam gear index marks line up perfectly with the reference marks on the backing plates and the new Laso WP has the pointer in the correct orientation.

Have not invested in Ken's timing tool yet but it is on my list. I was just hoping to get back on the road this weekend so I can get some run time before making a road trip the end of the month. I have to travel for work next week so if the cams need re-timed I will not get to it until next weekend.

Will the LH/EZK compensate ignition timing enough at 1 tooth off to get decent performance?

 

You'll notice a welcome improvement in performance with things
corrected!

 

I worked some on James M's '85 Euro looking for lost performance. Discovered one side retarded a tooth, the other side off by two teeth. Needless to say there's a significant improvement with the cams correct.

To your questions: No, the EZK and LH will do nothing to compensate for incorrect cam timing. The EZK will retard ignition timing if it sees detonation via the knock sensors, that's about it. The EZK "sees" cam movement enough to decide what cylinders to retard on knock. Beg/borrow/buy one of Ken's excellent 32V'r tools to confirm the cam timing. The only other option starts off with Greg's recommendation in the dial indicator and a degree wheel, to confirm TDC, then pull the cam covers off to re-index the cams on both sides with the dial indicator and a few handy attachment tools. Trust me, the 32V'r is MUCH faster/easier/cheaper than manually re-indexing the cams and gears.

 

I have yet to see a set of cams set up to the factory specs and the marks on the back of the timing covers line up, usually they are a 1/2 a tooth of or so.

So you still need to set them up is my guess.

 

Thanks for the info and advice Greg and Dr. Bob. I got everything back together today, including re-sealing the water bridge (had to move the intake to get the bolts out), new oil filler neck o-ring, new fuel lines, and cleaning up some more little defects from past mechanics. Unfortunately I failed to realize I only had about 1.5 gallons of 50/50 coolant on hand and the only place in town that carries Zerex G-05 is closed today. I'll get some tomorrow and get the old gal fired up after work. I'll get a 32V'r and get the cams set up correctly before my road trip along with an annual flex plate check/release and re-booting the right axle.

Mike

 

It does take a lot of time and parts to do the cams/crank with a dial indicator, no doubt it would be quicker to do them with kens setup.

Seems every one that comes into the shop needs cam cover gaskets so i just use the dial indicator, simple once you get the cam covers off.

 

Well I got the coolant filled and started the car up. It ran, but not well due to a sizable vacuum leak I created when I lifted the intake. The fuel vapor return/crankcase vent combination line that connects to the left side of the bottom of the manifold was held on WITH A CABLE TIE!!! When I lifted and re-set the manifold the hose pulled MOSTLY loose. A quick three hours later I had the manifold pulled up again, diagnosed the problem and secured the hose with a proper clamp, and got everything back together enough to start it up. Runs really nice and winds quickly up the rev counter. I will get it out for a road test next weekend and see if there is any improvement in performance.

Mike

 

That is great.

 

I don't know where in NW AR you're at. I'm in Tulsa and have a 32V'r, let me know if you're interested in using/borrowing it.

 

Thanks very much for the offer Simon. I am in Springdale. I'll send a PM and we can work out the details.

Mike

 

I am back in business!!!! Many thanks to Simon for the loan of a 32V'r. Checked cam timing today and found 5-8 spot on but 1-4 were sitting at +3 deg. After doing and redoing a couple of times I got 1-4 set at just between -1 and -2 deg. Everything is back together and waiting for a road test tomorrow. Have a prior commitment this evening with the extended family that requires postponing the road test. I did start it up and warm the coolant to normal operating temp so that hopefully tomorrow morning I can put the last of the coolant in. It idles nice and smooth and has great throttle response. With the combination of the Pksn'r , Gates belt, and Ed's superb water pump mod along with new crank seal, crank gear, and a re-seal of the oil pump I should be good to go for quite a while. I still plan to pull the covers once a year and do a good inspect of the cam gears, tensioner extension, etc.

Thanks also to Greg and Dr. Bob for the encouragement and sage advice. Already making plans for the 3rd Coast event in November. Hope I get to meet everyone there.

Mike