ROG100

My price for the Porsche MM is $259 each

danglerb

Cars without a torque tube apply the engine torque to the motor and I guess the transmission and rear end mounts (force on the rear end equal and opposite to force on motor mounts). 928 MM only needs to manage the engine vibration and torque from speed changes in the internal rotating assembly (TT cancels the driveline/wheel torque).

Which has me wondering how much the transmission moves and what kind of forces are on the transmission mounts?

Jim M.

When the Ford MM were first discovered to work there were the typical doubting Thomas'. People kept trying them because of the huge cost difference. As time went by they proved to be more than adequate. Then the manufacturer was bought by someone else and the quality went to hell. The quantity of rubber was cut in half and they would no longer support our engines.

After getting no support from the manufacturer Roger, to his credit, found a replacement. Also to his credit he warranted the failed mounts with free replacements and in Jeff's case free replacement labor.

The best replacement happened to also be hydraulic. The weight of the original application is very close to the 928 application so they should work fine. They are both hydraulic, they both will most likely fail over a period of years. Just like the first Ford MM's only time will tell if this is a good substitute, but if no one is willing to try we will never know. So it comes down to; Do you want to spend $500.00 for two mounts from Porsche or $92.00 for Roger's mounts.

I intend to save the $408.00 for something else. YMMV

Jim M.

To edit Roger's post above the Volvo mount is on top and the Porsche mount is below.

hans14914

Interesting. Looks like the Volvo unit is a bit taller, but look at the seams, they have much better overlap than the factory part.

I am game to give them a try. Will get a set in the next order, and report my findings. May be a while though, going to try spending some quality time with the AMG next.

928autobahndreamer

Roger, you must have one hell of a good saw. Thats a nice clean cut on those motor mounts.

jwillman

Landseer,

What method do you use to change out the mounts in an afternoon. Is that process already documented on rennlist somewhere?

I am sure my 1979 needs them as every other rubber bushing I have looked at is shot!

Thanks

jeff spahn

just put the car on a lift, get three guys and you can do it in two hours.

docmirror

But, but, I was told that using the Volvo mounts only saved $22. WTF? So, actually the mfg mount is about 5 times higher, and they will likely last just about as long. I think I have a clear understanding now.

docmirror

Wellllllll, you had to carve some cow too.

jeff spahn

Very true doc. You gotta lay out some prime beef and chops or nada getting done. Feed those that help or you will burn for eternity

Shark_Week

for doc's benefit. the difference of $22 was between buying them from roger or going somewhere else to buy them. please follow along

soontobered84

JWillman,
'79 model 928's have a complete different MM (unless you or the PO have changed them out) Yours should be a big square block of rubber mounted in a steel cradle. They DO go bad, but the typical repair (from what I've heard) involves drilling a hole and using a long bolt and nut, and not replacement.

Landseer

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...ine_Mounts.htm

Try this, Sharkskin's pages for the 79. This is his "RND 25".

It is possible, I've read somewhere, to retrofit newer mounts onto older cars. I think you need the crossmember from a later car.

StratfordShark

The locating pin on the Volvo mount looks smaller than on the OEM. It's probably a trivial difference but does this make much difference to install procedure, and are there any issues regarding precise location of the pin (seem to remember with the Anchor mounts pin had to be cut off).

Not changed mounts before but will diy the set due on my car, so forgive naive question!