Stuck Torque Converter
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound, TX
Stuck Torque Converter
I searched and didn't see where this had ever come up before, so I thought I'd make a new post. Hopefully someone's run into this before.
I've pulled the transmission, torque tube and all from the car, and after fighting a rounded off overtorqued hex bolt on the front of the thing, I've finally managed to get the torque converter cover off. The problem is, I can't get the torque converter off. I've removed the 6 bolts holding the torque converter to the triangular flex plate thing, but it seems to be retained in the center somehow. I've tried some fairly vigorous prying, and a couple of good raps with a rubber mallet, but I can't make the stupid thing let go.
The service manual shows all the bolts I've removed, but it even shows the torque converter being retained on the splined shaft, not stuck vigorously to the flexplate. My thoughts would be that this thing SHOULD just fall right off with the bolts out, but it seems to be retained somehow in the center.
Anyone run into this and have any ideas? I've actually even contemplated explosives at this point.
I've pulled the transmission, torque tube and all from the car, and after fighting a rounded off overtorqued hex bolt on the front of the thing, I've finally managed to get the torque converter cover off. The problem is, I can't get the torque converter off. I've removed the 6 bolts holding the torque converter to the triangular flex plate thing, but it seems to be retained in the center somehow. I've tried some fairly vigorous prying, and a couple of good raps with a rubber mallet, but I can't make the stupid thing let go.
The service manual shows all the bolts I've removed, but it even shows the torque converter being retained on the splined shaft, not stuck vigorously to the flexplate. My thoughts would be that this thing SHOULD just fall right off with the bolts out, but it seems to be retained somehow in the center.
Anyone run into this and have any ideas? I've actually even contemplated explosives at this point.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,222
Likes: 4,211
From: Philly PA
yes there is a good chance that the TC is corroded onto the flexplate.
if you can get the TC housing apart try spraying some PB blaster down the rear side of the flex plate, staright down so it will run onto the TC snout,
then you may need a helper to tap on the input shaft while the housing is pried apart be careful that you dont damage the housing.
You may ba able to pry through the 3 holes used for the flex plate install
if you can get the TC housing apart try spraying some PB blaster down the rear side of the flex plate, staright down so it will run onto the TC snout,
then you may need a helper to tap on the input shaft while the housing is pried apart be careful that you dont damage the housing.
You may ba able to pry through the 3 holes used for the flex plate install
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 22,846
Likes: 348
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
I had the smae exact problem 2 months ago and and got the same response to my post. It was just a simple light corrosion that made it stick. It's frustrating as hell as every indication tell you that there must be another bolt holding something in place where there isn't. What worked for me was to spray WD40 or something simmilar onto the converter and slowly sping it. This would get the penetrating oil on the top of the converter and if you let it sit for a few minutes, it will run down to the centre of it. After this, you will have to use a large flathead screwdriver and gently start prying off the converter from the housing. It will go very slowly at fist but in time, it will come out. The part that's stuck to the flex plate is ony about an inch long so if you get it going, just slowly work your way around it, by spinning and prying the converter, and it will come out.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: SB CA
+1 to all the above, they have much more experience and expertise than i. Mine wasn't very corroded but was still stuck and I used the flexplate mounting hoes in the tc and the flexplate itself witha screwdriver to rotate them against each other. This breaks the corrosion on the snout of the tc with rotation rather than prying the pieces apart with a lever that can bind and damage the snout of the tc where it's stuck in the center of the flexplate or damage the housing. This method could benefit from penetrating oil also and generally requires less force than prying. Also, steady pressure rather than a quick turn or pry can minimize damaging stuff and net he same result with less force (think opening a tight lid ona jar). Careful not to damage the tc threads that receive the flexplate bolts. My .02.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound, TX
It was wedged in pretty good, but I got it with three big screwdrivers and a hammer - now the follow up question.
The inside of the bellhousing on the transmission is nice and shiny clean except for the very bottom. I would think that if the torque converter seal were leaking, it would have spin velocity and the inside would just be coated. Am I right in guessing it was probably that big front seal that did it? It doesn't look like damaged or anything, but the bottom parts of it are coated in fluid. I also don't see fluid staining around the seal.
The inside of the bellhousing on the transmission is nice and shiny clean except for the very bottom. I would think that if the torque converter seal were leaking, it would have spin velocity and the inside would just be coated. Am I right in guessing it was probably that big front seal that did it? It doesn't look like damaged or anything, but the bottom parts of it are coated in fluid. I also don't see fluid staining around the seal.
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 22,846
Likes: 348
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
take a pics. It will be easier to see for us.
When yo are putting hte flexplate back in, clean up the end of the torque converter and the indent that is was sitting in with steel whool. It will make the re assebly easy as butter.
When yo are putting hte flexplate back in, clean up the end of the torque converter and the indent that is was sitting in with steel whool. It will make the re assebly easy as butter.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,222
Likes: 4,211
From: Philly PA
your front O oil pump seal is probably leaking this requires front pump removal so replace the radial seal for the TC as well and dont mess with the front pump gaslket just wipe it off and put in the new O ring add some vaseline to the bronze bushing the the rear TC snout runs in so it wont seize
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound, TX
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound, TX
your front O oil pump seal is probably leaking this requires front pump removal so replace the radial seal for the TC as well and dont mess with the front pump gaslket just wipe it off and put in the new O ring add some vaseline to the bronze bushing the the rear TC snout runs in so it wont seize
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound, TX
Here's the pictures I promised.
The front pump piece in the bottom picture had some fluid around the bottom and sides of it. The bellhousing on top had mostly just fluid near where it squares off on each side, and then down to the grate. It was only a couple of paper towel's worth.
The front pump piece in the bottom picture had some fluid around the bottom and sides of it. The bellhousing on top had mostly just fluid near where it squares off on each side, and then down to the grate. It was only a couple of paper towel's worth.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: SB CA
Say Richter - i did a write-up on this procedure and i'm about to to it all again (dropped the rear sub-fram in 3 hours yesterday - faster the 2nd time). Here's my post w/ pictures to clarify, hope it helps; and, i hope you have better luck than i did fixing the leak. The pictures are eerily familiar. . . . cheers.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...converter.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...converter.html
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound, TX
Say Richter - i did a write-up on this procedure and i'm about to to it all again (dropped the rear sub-fram in 3 hours yesterday - faster the 2nd time). Here's my post w/ pictures to clarify, hope it helps; and, i hope you have better luck than i did fixing the leak. The pictures are eerily familiar. . . . cheers.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...converter.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...converter.html
The only trouble I had with the rear end was the stupid e-brake cable, and the fact that once I dropped everything, the car was about 1" too low in the back to get the rear end out, and now I had no convenient place to lift it. Taking the front off of the jack stands lifted the rear just enough to clear.