Locking cam gears in place
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Locking cam gears in place
86.5
I am replacing my brothers water pump everything else is new. Since I set up the cams the last time with a correct tool I don't want to disturb the settings. I heard you can use a longer bolt using the thread holes that connects the rotors. This way I can remove the belt pull the pump and put it back together, any feedback on this?
I am replacing my brothers water pump everything else is new. Since I set up the cams the last time with a correct tool I don't want to disturb the settings. I heard you can use a longer bolt using the thread holes that connects the rotors. This way I can remove the belt pull the pump and put it back together, any feedback on this?
#2
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I just use a sharp scribe on the cam wheel and two of the bolt heads to mark before removal. Put it back on, line up the scribe marks, job done.
#3
Rennlist Member
But, you won't disturb the settings unless you loosen the connection between gear and cam, right?
The belt itself will determine the relative indexing of one gear to the other. Same belt, same teeth spacing, you should have no problem.
Am real interested in what you find on this changeover, and am hoping you get the results you expect!
The belt itself will determine the relative indexing of one gear to the other. Same belt, same teeth spacing, you should have no problem.
Am real interested in what you find on this changeover, and am hoping you get the results you expect!
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
I am wondering if I should set it at 45 Degrees when I loosen the belt. If I can lock the cam so it won't jump once the belt tension is removed I can leave it on o degrees.
Anyone just done a pump only any shortcuts.
Anyone just done a pump only any shortcuts.
#5
Rennlist Member
Oh. I see what you mean now.
I've done it by accident at 0 degrees with no issues, but not by choice.
Probably best to take the extra 15 minutes to add/remove the flywheel lock a couple times.
I've done it by accident at 0 degrees with no issues, but not by choice.
Probably best to take the extra 15 minutes to add/remove the flywheel lock a couple times.
#6
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I do it at Zero all the time. Just don't turn the crank until the cams and belts are back on. Double check your work before rolling it around two times by hand.
#7
Three Wheelin'
0 or 45 will work. Know anyone locally with a 32v'r? That would help you time your cams to spec. I saw someone shoot a bit of spray paint on each of the sprocket bolts to get the exact position scribed.
Trending Topics
#8
Team Owner
set the crank at 45 degrees mark the cams to the heads
remove the rotors use a few short screws into the cams to hold them in position remove the belt .
RnR the waterpump refit the belt use the 30mm nutwashers on the cams to turn them if they need to be aligned,
once this is done turn the engine to TDC and check the alignment.
the reason for turning the engine to 45 degrees is that the cams can spin once the belt is off,
it would suck to have this happen and have a valve snap into one of the pistons and possibly bend it
remove the rotors use a few short screws into the cams to hold them in position remove the belt .
RnR the waterpump refit the belt use the 30mm nutwashers on the cams to turn them if they need to be aligned,
once this is done turn the engine to TDC and check the alignment.
the reason for turning the engine to 45 degrees is that the cams can spin once the belt is off,
it would suck to have this happen and have a valve snap into one of the pistons and possibly bend it
#11
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Looks like a rebuild with a plastic impeller or a factory new of rebuild.
The seal is the rear thermostat seal.
It does not look like the impeller moved on the shaft, however did the shaft move?
Is it plastic?
The seal is the rear thermostat seal.
It does not look like the impeller moved on the shaft, however did the shaft move?
Is it plastic?
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter
I'm sure it jammed it and destroyed the plastic impeller.
Good thing it was plastic, remind me to not have my brother help me work on his car. Seems like it was dropped in and migrated down to the WP.
Good thing it was plastic, remind me to not have my brother help me work on his car. Seems like it was dropped in and migrated down to the WP.