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Locking cam gears in place

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Old 05-28-2010, 08:47 PM
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Default Locking cam gears in place

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I am replacing my brothers water pump everything else is new. Since I set up the cams the last time with a correct tool I don't want to disturb the settings. I heard you can use a longer bolt using the thread holes that connects the rotors. This way I can remove the belt pull the pump and put it back together, any feedback on this?
Old 05-28-2010, 08:52 PM
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docmirror
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I just use a sharp scribe on the cam wheel and two of the bolt heads to mark before removal. Put it back on, line up the scribe marks, job done.
Old 05-28-2010, 08:56 PM
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But, you won't disturb the settings unless you loosen the connection between gear and cam, right?

The belt itself will determine the relative indexing of one gear to the other. Same belt, same teeth spacing, you should have no problem.

Am real interested in what you find on this changeover, and am hoping you get the results you expect!
Old 05-28-2010, 09:08 PM
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I am wondering if I should set it at 45 Degrees when I loosen the belt. If I can lock the cam so it won't jump once the belt tension is removed I can leave it on o degrees.
Anyone just done a pump only any shortcuts.
Old 05-28-2010, 09:13 PM
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Oh. I see what you mean now.
I've done it by accident at 0 degrees with no issues, but not by choice.
Probably best to take the extra 15 minutes to add/remove the flywheel lock a couple times.
Old 05-28-2010, 09:34 PM
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I do it at Zero all the time. Just don't turn the crank until the cams and belts are back on. Double check your work before rolling it around two times by hand.
Old 05-28-2010, 09:43 PM
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0 or 45 will work. Know anyone locally with a 32v'r? That would help you time your cams to spec. I saw someone shoot a bit of spray paint on each of the sprocket bolts to get the exact position scribed.
Old 05-28-2010, 09:56 PM
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set the crank at 45 degrees mark the cams to the heads
remove the rotors use a few short screws into the cams to hold them in position remove the belt .
RnR the waterpump refit the belt use the 30mm nutwashers on the cams to turn them if they need to be aligned,
once this is done turn the engine to TDC and check the alignment.

the reason for turning the engine to 45 degrees is that the cams can spin once the belt is off,
it would suck to have this happen and have a valve snap into one of the pistons and possibly bend it
Old 05-29-2010, 11:19 AM
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Look what I found
Seems it was lodged in the impeller not sure what it belongs to but maybe the thermostat.
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:39 AM
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That's the inner sealing ring that sits behind the thermostat. What about thee missing piece of the impeller (10 o clock on the impeller, first pic)??
Old 05-29-2010, 11:42 AM
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Looks like a rebuild with a plastic impeller or a factory new of rebuild.
The seal is the rear thermostat seal.
It does not look like the impeller moved on the shaft, however did the shaft move?
Is it plastic?
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:44 AM
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The seal has a metal ring in it maybe that chipped the impeller
Old 05-29-2010, 12:38 PM
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I'm sure it jammed it and destroyed the plastic impeller.
Good thing it was plastic, remind me to not have my brother help me work on his car. Seems like it was dropped in and migrated down to the WP.
Old 05-29-2010, 12:39 PM
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The shaft looks like it is tight the shaft is metal.
Old 05-29-2010, 03:06 PM
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Is the mail pulley bolt torqued to 225?


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