Refoam tweeters
#1
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Hi.
I know there were many topics about speaker replacement but still I'm not sure about one thing... Today I'm gonna remove the rear woofer speakers from my '90 S4 to do a refoam.
My mid and high range are OK (I think) but the woofers sound terrible.
Is there a need to refoam the tweeters also or do tweeters never need a refoam because they don't "move" as much as woofers ?
Thanks, Paul
I know there were many topics about speaker replacement but still I'm not sure about one thing... Today I'm gonna remove the rear woofer speakers from my '90 S4 to do a refoam.
My mid and high range are OK (I think) but the woofers sound terrible.
Is there a need to refoam the tweeters also or do tweeters never need a refoam because they don't "move" as much as woofers ?
Thanks, Paul
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I removed both woofers without any problems.
Each is connected through 2 connectors. 1 out of 4 is so far tucked away behind the board I think my next project is to remove this board partially to get to the connector in order to reconnect the woofer when I'm done.
I noticed the foam after 20 years of (heavy ?) duty was very fragile. The one woofer who worked "well" disintegrated when I touched the foam with very light pressure!
Also I found the glue on the speaker itself very tough to remove. I used a paint remover heater (not sure how you call it, a strong hairdryer ?) to warm it up and found it easyer to remove. Also tried some sticker remover to finish it up but I wouldn't suggest others to do that. Just use a small knive to scrape all glue off the speaker.
I found a company here in Holland who sells almost every size of rings so I mailed them the data and hope they respond soon with the correct rings to order.
Price indication: $ 3,- each !
Keep you informed.
Each is connected through 2 connectors. 1 out of 4 is so far tucked away behind the board I think my next project is to remove this board partially to get to the connector in order to reconnect the woofer when I'm done.
I noticed the foam after 20 years of (heavy ?) duty was very fragile. The one woofer who worked "well" disintegrated when I touched the foam with very light pressure!
Also I found the glue on the speaker itself very tough to remove. I used a paint remover heater (not sure how you call it, a strong hairdryer ?) to warm it up and found it easyer to remove. Also tried some sticker remover to finish it up but I wouldn't suggest others to do that. Just use a small knive to scrape all glue off the speaker.
I found a company here in Holland who sells almost every size of rings so I mailed them the data and hope they respond soon with the correct rings to order.
Price indication: $ 3,- each !
Keep you informed.
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I just did this.
I re-foamed the mids and woofers, but the tweeters are made with cloth and do not rot as quickly.
Like Danglerb said, your tweeters are likely fine
Tim
I re-foamed the mids and woofers, but the tweeters are made with cloth and do not rot as quickly.
Like Danglerb said, your tweeters are likely fine
Tim
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I believe the tweeters have a polycarbonate-based dome, which should include the curl at the edge. In any case, I've never seen true tweeters that used a foam surround nor a surround replacement kit for tweeters. In general, if anything is available to repair a tweeter, it's the "butterfly", which is the whole voice coil and diaphragm in one assembly.
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>>Each is connected through 2 connectors. 1 out of 4 is so far tucked away behind the board I think my next project is to remove this board partially to get to the connector in order to reconnect the woofer when I'm done<<
Hi, I did the same job about six weeks ago and had the problem with one of the four connectors being hidden - what I found was that the pressure on the connector from the trim panel was greater than the pressure needed to re-connect the plug.
It was a bit tricky to re-connect but with a bit of perseverance it should not be necessary to take the trim panel out.
To me it made no sense why the 'hidden' connector didn't just have an extra 10cm of cable...
Hi, I did the same job about six weeks ago and had the problem with one of the four connectors being hidden - what I found was that the pressure on the connector from the trim panel was greater than the pressure needed to re-connect the plug.
It was a bit tricky to re-connect but with a bit of perseverance it should not be necessary to take the trim panel out.
To me it made no sense why the 'hidden' connector didn't just have an extra 10cm of cable...
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>>Each is connected through 2 connectors. 1 out of 4 is so far tucked away behind the board I think my next project is to remove this board partially to get to the connector in order to reconnect the woofer when I'm done<<
Hi, I did the same job about six weeks ago and had the problem with one of the four connectors being hidden - what I found was that the pressure on the connector from the trim panel was greater than the pressure needed to re-connect the plug.
It was a bit tricky to re-connect but with a bit of perseverance it should not be necessary to take the trim panel out.
To me it made no sense why the 'hidden' connector didn't just have an extra 10cm of cable...
Hi, I did the same job about six weeks ago and had the problem with one of the four connectors being hidden - what I found was that the pressure on the connector from the trim panel was greater than the pressure needed to re-connect the plug.
It was a bit tricky to re-connect but with a bit of perseverance it should not be necessary to take the trim panel out.
To me it made no sense why the 'hidden' connector didn't just have an extra 10cm of cable...
I removed the nearby mid speaker to find out the connector was right behind it.
So I don't have to remove the panel. Foam rings come today by mail so my project can continue!
Thanks, Paul