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Old 08-01-2010, 06:07 PM
  #16  
byrdman454
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That is what is so frustrating. This is basically the same system I have had in this car for many years. The only thing I swapped out was the head unit and the RCA cables. Everything else is the same. I had to remove the system to put in sound deadening and new carpet. I am going to try and stop by a stereo place this week if no one else has anymore suggestions.
Old 08-01-2010, 06:17 PM
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Maleficio
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Put the old head unit back in and see what happens.
Old 08-01-2010, 07:01 PM
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Alan
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Originally Posted by danglerb
Noise isolators are cheap transformers and filters, I wouldn't put one in my audio chain, except as a very last resort when time didn't permit a better solution.

Seems to me you need to have somebody that knows auto electrics to go over your install and fix whatever is screwed up.
You likely already have one stock unless you removed it... They are not particularly cheap...

Mike -They look like transformers but with only 2 terminals (though the Porsche ones sometimes have a third terminal for a diode spike supressor) - you likely have one under the radio on the drivers side of the console near the ash tray/clock area - stock its connected in series with the ignition switched supply.

Alan
Old 08-01-2010, 07:12 PM
  #19  
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Does anyone have a part number or picture of this part? I do not remember seeing this part.
Old 08-01-2010, 10:31 PM
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danglerb
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Originally Posted by Alan
You likely already have one stock unless you removed it... They are not particularly cheap...

Mike -They look like transformers but with only 2 terminals (though the Porsche ones sometimes have a third terminal for a diode spike supressor) - you likely have one under the radio on the drivers side of the console near the ash tray/clock area - stock its connected in series with the ignition switched supply.

Alan
Different thing, Noise filter is typically a choke (two terminal transformer looking thing, a big inductor) and capacitor in a very low pass LC filter circuit. They block all higher frequencies, which includes most noise and transients, and pass cleaned up DC power.

The Radio Shack noise isolators look like a D size battery, have a dinky transformer inside, and some other filter components and the cables usually have RCA connections on the ends. They remove the ground path so the signal is only AC coupled to the amp (high pass the opposite of the noise filter) and this removes most bad ground issues by allowing the signal source and the amp to have different ground reference points. They are made for cars, but also used to fix cable TV hum problems from miss matched ground references. Not a good option IMHO.
Old 08-01-2010, 10:37 PM
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danglerb
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From DC auto

999.619.138.00 (-90) $50.62

Interference-suppr. choke for radio booster

****************************************

Any car stereo shop should have a cheaper equivalent part.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120601141497
Old 08-01-2010, 10:56 PM
  #22  
auzivision
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Poke around here and or post your questions:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/
Probably the best online forum related to car audio systems and your problems are not unique to 928's or Porsche's.

Please never waste money on Monster Cables again... entirely overpriced and sometimes junk... great alternative sources:
http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm
http://www.monoprice.com/home/index.asp
Old 08-02-2010, 03:44 AM
  #23  
Alan
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Originally Posted by danglerb
Different thing, Noise filter is typically a choke (two terminal transformer looking thing, a big inductor) and capacitor in a very low pass LC filter circuit. They block all higher frequencies, which includes most noise and transients, and pass cleaned up DC power.
Yes that's what I said and already recommended.

Alan
Old 08-03-2010, 07:55 AM
  #24  
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Found the problem after some researching on the internet. Turns out all car head units have an internal fuse soldered on their board for RCA shielding. The Pioneer head units are notorious for these fuses blowing, either from insufficient grounding or hot swapping RCAs. The normal cost for Pioneer to fix is about $200. Mine is still under warranty, so it should be free.

A way to test is to check continuity between the RCA jack and the head unit chassis. There was no continuity with the Pioneer. I did check one of my old head units to verify and it does have continuity.

There are work arounds like soldering a ground wire directly to the RCA cables. I would have probably done this (and saved $200) if my warranty was void.

Thanks for all your guy's suggestions.
Old 08-03-2010, 10:05 AM
  #25  
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Sounds like an excellent plan for a continued Panasonic revenue stream...



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