a/c question
05-25-2010, 01:56 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Well you have to have some kind of plus in a Prius. Might as well be cold, it sure doesn't go. Sorry, couldn't resist.
05-25-2010, 08:28 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
My AC has always cycled as well, similar to what you describe. It will cool to low 40's in the center vent for a minute or two, then up to low 50's for 15-30 seconds, then back down to 40's. It stays in the 40's much longer than it stays in the 50's, so not really a problem. Still don't understand why it cycles when everyone says it shouldn't. The freeze switch is the only think that makes sense I guess.
05-25-2010, 10:40 PM
#18
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Don, you can eliminate the freeze switch from your list by connecting the two wires together, and see if you still have the cycling. If the cycling goes away with the wires jumpered, time to either get into the efreeze switch and do some tweaking, or just buy a new one that gives you better/lower temps. My memory of Houston in the summer includes plenty of humidity, so driving with that switch jumpered is not a long-term option.
One day I'll get onto a universal AC clutch relay, one thatkeys off the factory relay but without the load it sees now, looks at th efreeze switch too so that's unloaded. Most importantly, it would effectively bypass th efreeze switch for the first ten minutes or so of AC operation so it would un-soak the cabin at max capacity before reverting to 'normal' operation with icing protection. A little weatherproof cube that could sit by the freeze switch, and just need a power feed from the CE panel.
One day I'll get onto a universal AC clutch relay, one thatkeys off the factory relay but without the load it sees now, looks at th efreeze switch too so that's unloaded. Most importantly, it would effectively bypass th efreeze switch for the first ten minutes or so of AC operation so it would un-soak the cabin at max capacity before reverting to 'normal' operation with icing protection. A little weatherproof cube that could sit by the freeze switch, and just need a power feed from the CE panel.
05-26-2010, 01:32 AM
#20
Electron Wrangler
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My R134a system is too cold to leave on full in Phoenix even at 110F. It takes a while to cool the car if its been heat soaked but with a cold engine from the shade its very cold almost immediately.
Hot restarts blast some hot air and take longer to cool the heater core down.
At anything over 115F the system struggles rather to keep me cool enough... if heat soaked its takes quite a while to cool into an acceptable range....
I never have issues with the freeze switch or freezing up its hot & dry here which helps a lot...
Still I think you have an non-optimal issue with the system somewhere... most likely low freon -> pressure switch off.
Alan
Hot restarts blast some hot air and take longer to cool the heater core down.
At anything over 115F the system struggles rather to keep me cool enough... if heat soaked its takes quite a while to cool into an acceptable range....
I never have issues with the freeze switch or freezing up its hot & dry here which helps a lot...
Still I think you have an non-optimal issue with the system somewhere... most likely low freon -> pressure switch off.
Alan
