IT"S ALIVE! My 1979 starts. New pics - what is missing?
05-11-2010, 10:11 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
IT"S ALIVE! My 1979 starts. New pics - what is missing?
Well I had the car im my driveway a week and have not been able to fiddle assuming it would not start on her own as the PO had poured fuel into the inlet to start her before I bought the car. Today I thought I would check the battery and put it on a charger in preparation for troubleshooting this weekend.
When I checked the battery voltage it read 12.4V so I thought what the heck and connected it and gave it a try. It turned over strong but no sign of ignition. Second try I got a cough. Third try she started! It is idling at 1600 RPM and does not respond well to the throttle but will continue to run.
Alternator is putting out 13.5 at that RPM and the headlights came to life when the switch was turned. All the window and seat swirches are out of the car and with the clutch line blown there is no driving her but there are a bunch of things I need to check first, fluid levels, fuses, fuel lines etc.
So here is where I ask for help. Where should she idle cold? Any ideas why she is idling so fast? Recommendations on where should start to get the engine to respond to the throttle?
So looking today and found a lot of stuff loose and missing in the drivers side firewall. Looks like something is missing, Clutch master slave? Can anbyone confirm what should be connected here? Also found a nasty battery ground.
Thanks all!
Jim
When I checked the battery voltage it read 12.4V so I thought what the heck and connected it and gave it a try. It turned over strong but no sign of ignition. Second try I got a cough. Third try she started! It is idling at 1600 RPM and does not respond well to the throttle but will continue to run.
Alternator is putting out 13.5 at that RPM and the headlights came to life when the switch was turned. All the window and seat swirches are out of the car and with the clutch line blown there is no driving her but there are a bunch of things I need to check first, fluid levels, fuses, fuel lines etc.
So here is where I ask for help. Where should she idle cold? Any ideas why she is idling so fast? Recommendations on where should start to get the engine to respond to the throttle?
So looking today and found a lot of stuff loose and missing in the drivers side firewall. Looks like something is missing, Clutch master slave? Can anbyone confirm what should be connected here? Also found a nasty battery ground.
Thanks all!
Jim
Last edited by jwillman; 05-12-2010 at 09:37 PM.
05-11-2010, 10:48 PM
#2
There are several things on the car that could cause the issues you've got. Plugged up fuel distributer, pressure control valve with a bad seal, warm up regulator not working right, cold start injector, vac leaks, timing off etc. 
Cold idle will start high and as it warms up it should level off around 700+/-.
Cold idle will start high and as it warms up it should level off around 700+/-.
05-11-2010, 11:53 PM
#4
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Shoulda bought mine, you'd be driving! hehehehe.
If it starts and stays running you've got compression and spark(obviously). Most of these issue come down to too much air getting and the fuel metering being way off cause someone has goofed with it to keep it running. I would say a complete refresh of every hose is in order, and then look at the idle air bypass, cold start injector stuck, and the WUR being out of calibration. The WUR is the most likely as it does the job of a 'choke' allowing more fuel in when the engine is warming up. If you have another WUR around, you could try swapping that.
If it starts and stays running you've got compression and spark(obviously). Most of these issue come down to too much air getting and the fuel metering being way off cause someone has goofed with it to keep it running. I would say a complete refresh of every hose is in order, and then look at the idle air bypass, cold start injector stuck, and the WUR being out of calibration. The WUR is the most likely as it does the job of a 'choke' allowing more fuel in when the engine is warming up. If you have another WUR around, you could try swapping that.
05-12-2010, 12:08 PM
#5
If the 928 has been sitting a long time, the no acceleration is probably due to a stuck piston in the fuel distributor. You can check this by depressing the air sensor plate. It should move with a minimum of resistance. If it doesn't move, try spraying cleaner into the center port at the top of the fuel distributor. It wouldn't hurt to spray cleaner in all of the ports on the distributor and WUR.
Dennis
Dennis
Trending Topics
05-12-2010, 12:47 PM
#8
Dump some cans of Techron in the gas tank and go drive it.
05-12-2010, 01:46 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
I met the guy with the White Euro in Circle C, I forget his name but he says that Mark R. pops in at his work sometimes and is supposed to do some front end work for him. I told him about the Austin GTG and he said Mark has invited him and he may try to make it sometime soon. Who knows.
Only you and I are actually in Austin, James and some of the others are from the Waco area!
05-12-2010, 01:47 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Congrats Jim!
05-12-2010, 02:38 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
South Waco, but yea! LOL!
What about Tim and Rose and Jim? Jim is out ya'lls way. In fact he is FURTHER out than you guys! Tim and Rose might be more west than south...
What about Tim and Rose and Jim? Jim is out ya'lls way. In fact he is FURTHER out than you guys! Tim and Rose might be more west than south...
05-12-2010, 09:40 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Shoulda bought mine, you'd be driving! hehehehe.
If it starts and stays running you've got compression and spark(obviously). Most of these issue come down to too much air getting and the fuel metering being way off cause someone has goofed with it to keep it running. I would say a complete refresh of every hose is in order, and then look at the idle air bypass, cold start injector stuck, and the WUR being out of calibration. The WUR is the most likely as it does the job of a 'choke' allowing more fuel in when the engine is warming up. If you have another WUR around, you could try swapping that.
If it starts and stays running you've got compression and spark(obviously). Most of these issue come down to too much air getting and the fuel metering being way off cause someone has goofed with it to keep it running. I would say a complete refresh of every hose is in order, and then look at the idle air bypass, cold start injector stuck, and the WUR being out of calibration. The WUR is the most likely as it does the job of a 'choke' allowing more fuel in when the engine is warming up. If you have another WUR around, you could try swapping that.
I maybe saying the same thing to my self sometime in the future but for now I am still having fun saving this one. Of course the more I dig the more I find!
05-13-2010, 12:32 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Good work !!
Looks like brake master cyl missing off the booser. The white plugs with 3 connectors are for the brake lights. Some CIS owners whose cars have sat for long periods load up the gas tank with Berrymans(and gas), and bridge the pump relay (ign off) to circulate fuel around the lines and slowly dissolve crud, and it gets dumped into the filter,so try that. Next you will need a CIS gauge set to see where your pressures are - the most important thing you need know about CIS. You should also test delivery rate - open the return line to the tank (over RHS cam cover), run a hose into a container, bridge the pump relay - you should get ~1300ml in 30 seconds. If not, check pump hoses, filter etc.
Looks like brake master cyl missing off the booser. The white plugs with 3 connectors are for the brake lights. Some CIS owners whose cars have sat for long periods load up the gas tank with Berrymans(and gas), and bridge the pump relay (ign off) to circulate fuel around the lines and slowly dissolve crud, and it gets dumped into the filter,so try that. Next you will need a CIS gauge set to see where your pressures are - the most important thing you need know about CIS. You should also test delivery rate - open the return line to the tank (over RHS cam cover), run a hose into a container, bridge the pump relay - you should get ~1300ml in 30 seconds. If not, check pump hoses, filter etc.