hans14914

I recently did my timing belt, and went to start up the car, ran for 5seconds or so then died. Gauge registered low on gas, so thought that may be the culrpit, put in a couple gallons, and it wont start.

I havent done the normal full battery of tests yet, but did jumper the full pump, and it runs when jumpered at the relay, so its wiring is good. I went ahead and swapped "53" relays just to be safe. No improvement.

I notice that the tach isnt moving while cranking. I beleive it is supposed to, and that the signal originates from the EZK. Does this mean my EZK decided to quit?

I will try and track everything down tonight, test coils, plugs, wires.... etc But can anyone confirm that I should have tach under crank, and what the likely culprit is in the system?

Thanks
Hans

SeanR

Crank position sensor?

hans14914

CPS is new last year. Also, it ran fine last week before the tbelt job, and I didnt monkey around with the rear harness. I am going to check it tonight, but doubt its the the CPS. Kind of off topic, but the Hall sensor plug broke, anyone know the correct pinnout to put it back together. Running without it now, but that shouldn't effect startup.

jcorenman

Hans,

I think the tach always wiggles when cranking, but I am not 100% sure.

Did it run OK for those 5 seconds, or perhaps only on 4 cyl's? The most likely problem is whatever you most recently touched... Distributors, coil hi-voltage cable, cam timing, etc.-- but not EZK.

The "speed" (tach) signal is generated by the EZK from the CPS, comes out on EZK pin-13 to the LH (pin-1) and also to the tach and diagnostic connector via the CE panel (let me know if you need terminal numbers, my books are in the shop).

If you have fuel pressure and the car didn't start reasonably quickly then it is probably flooded. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank it a bit at WOT to air things out-- if you have spark then it will eventually fire, run for a few seconds and then die from lack of fuel. I spent a whole day trying to diagnose a flooded engine... unless you pull the FP fuse, every time you crank it to check spark, etc just floods it worse...

hans14914

It seemed to run decently for the couple seconds it was going. It was a little noisy as I had just changed the oil, so it was doing a bit of a dry start, but it sure sounded like the timing was alright, and on all 8cyl.

I pulled the fuel pump relay instead, cranked it today, and it popped towards the end. Seems like its getting spark. I have my battery on the charger now, so when I get home, I can start running some better tests.

I am marginally concerned that maybe the Hall sensor lead shorted out or received reverse polarity on the pins. The connector disintegrated when moving the front harness to remove the belt. All three connectors are still held in the correct order, but they were exposed momentarily, so its possible they could have shorted against themselves, back feeding voltage, or in just to the engine bay.

I am going to test for spark first thing tonight, then move along, but I think the tach is telling indicator that something is wrong in the electronics.

Thanks,
Hans

hans14914

Well a day on the charger seemed to fix the problem. The car may have been flooded, battery to low for the ignition amps, or both.

Drove/ran the car around today for over two hours. Fires right up.

Thanks all as always for the input, support, and ideas.

Hans