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alignment specs lowered '83

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Old 05-11-2010, 09:48 AM
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shmark
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Default alignment specs lowered '83

I've got an appointment for an alignment this afternoon and after using the search function, found several different posts. Factory spec on a later car should be something like this I think. Does this also hold true for an early car?

Front
Caster: 3° 30' +30' (3° 30' to 4°)
Camber: -30' ±10' (-40' to -20')
Toe: 7.5' +2.5' (7.5' to 10')

Rear
Camber: -40' ±10' (-50' to -30')
Toe: 10' ± 5' (-5' to -15')

Now the difference. I have the factory swaybars, Bilstein/Eibach suspension, and it's about 1" lower than stock which I like. I've read that a little extra toe and camber will reward aggressive street driving (mountain drives, occasional autocross), but with my lowered car what's a good starting point? I'm taking it to Gran Turismo which is a high end shop that will do it right, but I'd like to give them a starting point.
Old 05-11-2010, 10:30 AM
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GlenL
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Go with the stock specs.

More camber is good at the track but will wear the tires less evenly on the street.
Old 05-11-2010, 05:54 PM
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IcemanG17
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for street cars, stay with stock specs......for track driven cars, things get different....

The estate is pretty low...typically the "fender" height (not super accurate) is 24" in the rear and 24-25 in front (ground straight across centerline of rim to fender).....the front suspension works better at 25" vs 24" & I'm running 245/45-16 tires or 24.7" tires

Alignment is max camber 2.5' or so all around with max caster (don't know) toe is set to neutral in front with 1/8" in in rear...... I found this combo handles EXCELLENT....it does understeer the the limit but its easily controlled.....
Old 05-11-2010, 10:37 PM
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shmark
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Well crap, got it on the alignment machine only to discover a bad inner tie rod joint on the passenger side, creating 1/8" change in toe. No alignment for me today. So it looks like I'm replacing tie rods this weekend, then tee it up again.



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