ptuomov

The first attempt that I made on this score was based on a light-dimmer controller that cost about $25 and could handle I recall maybe 10a (but could be wrong, can't remember) with the transistor and the heat sink in it. Then we switched to Arduino since there's no need for the amps and it's programmable in C. For what it's worth.

hans14914

I have an arduino mega here to test with as well (actually seeduino, but thats splitting hairs). I would be interested in looking at your sketch though. I assume you are using a Fuelab pump for your project... that is what I will be using on mine.

Aloysius

Dang, Hans, this pump and the center console? Do you ever sleep? Very nice work on both accounts, i can barely keep up with the technical controls around the water pump you're developing (probably simple for you - but i'm so excited you're working on this!). It's great to have both your soluciton and the olther mechanical improvements from Obehave - both are serving specific needs. I'm super tempted to try this unit you're developing just for reducing mechanical friction (maybe negligable, though) and increasing general durability. Great work - keep on truckin'!

hans14914

I finally had a chance to get some test miles on the setup today. You may have seen some of my other recent threads recounting all sorts of strange complications from the tbelt job. Anyhow, got the car running well this evening, so put around 2.5 hours on the electric pump with mixed city and highway driving.

Under normal city driving, temp registers just a bit beyond the first warm hash mark. Normal highway driving edged this up a bit to just shy of halfway between the first and second warm marks. Then I gave it a real workout. I drove over 12 miles with the car in third gear (around 3500rpm constantly) to heatsoak the cooling system. Under this stress, temp rose to just under the second warm hash mark, but never touched or crossed over the mark. It also rapidly cooled down when put back in 4th gear and driven normally.

It is still early to definitely call it effective, but it sure seems effective from todays testing.

AO

As cool as that all is, your engine is filthy! Yuk!

OBehave

Any pics of the pump idler install and how that works with your system?I'm not sure what this pic is of. Ed

AO

That's a pic of the actual water pump. It's inline with the lower radiator hose.

Don Ashe

Well, he could spend more time cleaning his engine and less time developing...

-don

Lizard928

Is this with a controller to maintain temps?

auzivision

It's not that dirty:



We'll actually it really is, but in his defense he will be pulling it shortly to work up a real cool forced induction system... then it will be cleaned.

Congratulations on your maiden voyage!

I take it that's pump plan B, did the purple one not work out?

hans14914

Purple pump is installed. I just clocked it so the nice control unit is on-top, and between that and the hoses, it hides most of the "bling."

The unit shown in the picture is the on-board circuitry for the EMP pump. It performs the duty of power supply, and nothing more. Currently I have a modified thermostat installed to close the "by-pass" port, as this was a test-run. I will run the pump for a week or so in its current configuration to confirm that the flow is satisfactory for our cars before moving on to the next portion of the project - waterbridge delete.

The engine is hopelessly dirty. I have a PS reservoir leak, which wont drip on the pavement, but really gunks up the engine bay. I recently ordered a steam cleaner, and between that and pressure washing should solve the problem. Kurt is correct though, engine is coming out soon, so will have time and access to clean everything properly, and fix any related leaks.

Thanks
Hans

Fogey1

This is a Great Idea.

That's an excellent question. The Tech Spec books are silent on the issue.

My solution to determine it would be to park the car next to full stock tank or bathtub or kiddie pool and extend the radiator hoses into it. Start the car and measure the output at various RPM.

For instance, a 55GPM rate would fill a 5 gallon bucket in a bit more than five seconds and a 30GPM rate in ten seconds.

What's the current draw on the 55GPM pump at various outputs?

Hans, you wrote; [QUOTE] ... Stewart prototyped an electronic thermostat like that several years ago. Unfortunately, it was only made commercially available in a 1.25" size. You can still find them online in various places, and they are truely a great option.... if you application requires a small diameter cooling hose. ... [QUOTE]

It's flow that matters, not hose diameter, right? If so, with adequate flow there's no reason the system couldn't neck down and back up at the thermostat.

hans14914

I agree, the 1.25" unit would work, but it would require all sorts of hose adapters, new hoses, or some other solution. It is also very expensive. Summit has them listed for over $400. Great product, just never made it to production level pricing.

As far as measuring stock pump output, just measure the amount of fluid in the chamber, remove the amount of water displaced by the pump, and multiply by the RPM to get flow rate. I will try and get this data together at some time, but so far, the 55GPM pump is keeping up.

Thanks
Hans

hans14914

After having a full week on the new pump it seems to be working well. Temps max out right at the 6:00 position during normal driving. I have noticed that one of my Spal fans is on the way out, so temps may drop after I replace my fans. I will post every couple weeks, especially as we get into the warm months for those who are interested in conversion to an EWP - although it is rather obsolete in most applications by the recent developments with the stock pumps. I may even swap back to the new pumps when they are available.

Tony

you neeed to install a proper numeric temp guage or wire in a T-couple to the system and measure it remotely. That would give you a really good idea of any temp changes...not referencing a needle and a couple of hash marks on the stock system.

Great work!