mj1pate

....please.
But all I need is to know if the ATF cooler lines that plug into the transmission and radiator cooler are standard metric threads. Specifically, I would like to unscrew the transmission cooler lines from both ends and screw plugs into them, without loosing quarts of recent, good fluid. This would allow me to get the lines rebuilt, without loosing most of my fluid in the meantime. Thanks....

linderpat

That should work if you work fast. I don't recall if the conections are flared. But they are metric - all p-car connections are.

M. Requin

Hey Michael - I'm just getting ready to do the exact same job. I'll let you be the pioneer, and I'll appreciate it if you share some tips, insights, whatever! TIA

ammonman

IIRC the connections at the cooler(s) are a ball/socket type connection. Instead of trying to find metric threaded caps, why not use rubber plugs?

Mike

mj1pate

That's what I've been thinking, as well.....but I would need stoppers made of hard rubber, that will not break off any pieces into the transmission or radiator cooler. Not sure where to get something like that.

BTW: so far, this has been an easy job. This most difficult portion being raising the car up. The exhaust system has been carefully lowered in one piece by myself in stages using 3 jack stands. The lines are completely exposed now and are ready to remove, if I can stopper the openings as discussed. This BTW is a great time to replace the vacuum modulator vacuum hoses at each end of the torque tube. The old hoses are much easier to reach at this stage of disassembly.

mj1pate

OK Folks, the answer to plugging the radiator and transmission after removing the lines is to use rubber stoppers. Widgetco sells any variety and size, but I need to know the approximate inner-diameter of the line fittings and the approximate outer diameter of the line fittings. Does anyone have access to lines that they could make rough measurements? Thanks!

Imo000

Go to your local junk yard and ask for a handfull of plastic line caps. They use them all the time to store removed engines and transmissions.
Remvong the passanger side lines will be a PITA. Squeezing them by the MM and the frame rails is a biatch!

mj1pate

Good point....If cleanly cutting the rubber line will help get it out, that's an option. Of course getting the rebuilt lines back in will be a chore.

I just ordered an array of rubber, tapered plugs from widgetco.....I willl have enough sizes to plug between 1.5mm and 13 mm line, transmission and cooler holes.

ammonman

I doubt cutting the rubber line to get the hard lines out through the engine cross member will help. My '90 has the air pump deleted and it was possible to carefully maneuver the lines out with some slight flexing. Be sure you have the correct size metric flare nut wrenches to separate the lines. Mine were together VERY tight and took extensions on the flare nut wrenches to get the line joints cracked loose.

Mike

mj1pate

Excellent point....How is it best to re-tighten the rebuilt lines? Is there a torque spec, or are they just tightened "real tight"?

ammonman

I could not find a torque spec so I used a small brushing of trans fluid on the threads to prevent galling and proceeded to tighten "firmly." No leaks after a year. Be careful to orient the rubber lines to prevent rubbing/chaffing. You don't want to have to do it all over again anytime soon.

Mike

mj1pate

OK....the rubber stopper idea is working great so far. I've completely removed the rear half of the lines, and by stoppering of the disconnected, dangling front lines, I'm not loosing fluid from the transmission cooler, while waiting to finish. I've also stoppered off the transmission ports themselves. Disconnecting a line and quickly stoppering the open port has cost me half a cup of fluid so far. I have to order some what larger stoppers for the transmission cooler ports in the radiator.

Imo000

The lines will come out but it might take a bit time to figure out the "choreography" that it takes to get it out. THe ground cable from the chasis to the engine (at the back of the engine) needs to be disconeected too. You will have to twist it 90 degree one way then pull a little, twist another 45 the other way and so on but, it will come out. Once it't out, putting it back will be much easier. Don't cut the lines as it won't make much difference. I did all this on an S4 with the airpump and AC compressor in place. Good luck!

mj1pate

is it necessary to unbolt the bracket that connects the cross member to the passenger side of the unit body to twist the front lines out ? It seems from comments that the answer is no....

Imo000

No, or at least not on a Japan Spec, LHD, '89 S4 (I think this is also a ROW car too). You might have to slightly bend the line to squeez it out but it will clear.