dcrasta

Ok a little ranting ..

I just want to do my brakes and anti-seize my lugs .
So far I have done the rears. Each rear wheel had 1 broken lug. 1 hole saw each.
Front right (passenger side) wheel 3 broken lugs. I have drilled and drilled with 2 holesaws, and the little cone has spun out, but I cannot get the wheel to release.

My great idea, putting 2 lugs on the car (about 1/2 turn loose) and driving it forward and back 5-10 feet until I can get some movement.

Im not sure this is the best tactic, any one have any ideas to suggest?

As soon as this is done I'm doing the TB/WP (parts are here) and installing my Porkentensioner and dropping the air-pump.

HALP! (Oh and prayers for Dunkel)

robot808

Please don't hate my silly question, but you are using PB blaster or something, right?
Have you tried heating any of the parts?

Rob Edwards

The loose lugnut trick and driving back and forth is fine.

I hope you mean broken 'lugnut' and not the stud. If the studs are FUBAR in the rear you're going to be pulling the hub to replace the studs, which means you'll be R&R'ing the rear wheel bearings too.


For getting these off before you totally round them off, spray with Kroil beforehand, then get a set of the Sears lug extractor sockets (you only need the 19mm one, but not sure they sell them individually...)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G11


Voila:

Imo000

Harbor Freight has lug removers too.

AO

Karma?

robot808

Coffee yet Andrew?

Randy V

Who is Dunkel and why is he a problem?

Rick Carter

Are you saying after removing the lug nuts the wheel is stuck and won't come off?

If so, this is what happened with my car this spring when I was changing from winter wheels/tires to summer wheels/tires. I jacked up the car and put a block (sledgehammer head) under the inside edge of the tire and let the car back down, this broke the wheel loose.

76FJ55

Are you using a deepwell socket when trying to remove the lugs? I have heard of lugs breaking off leavin just the cone section installed holdin ght erime on. This seems to be more common when NOT using a good deepwell socket.

Rob Edwards

This is a great question and the cause of why I needed to go buy the extractor socket.

Shallow impact socket+ impact wrench + overtightened aluminum lugnut = FAIL.

dcrasta

OK.. some history..
I purchased this car after it sat for 10 years. Tires were dry -rotted..
I took it [dropped it off] to a tire place for new tires. I asked them not to use air (and removed the lugs myself). Asked them to hand tighten the lugs when they reinstalled them. Went for a coffee.

Came back my car was being attacked by 2 of their guys with air guns.
Two weeks later I'm attempting to do the brakes. I have good deep well sockets, however the lugs are sheering at the base of the hex portion leaving the cone.

I am using Kroil and PBlaster on the hole saw to carve the lug off.

I was successful on the rears (one lug broke on each wheel), however the front has 3 lugs broken.

I will try the block trick and lowering the car. There are metal shavings around the wheel studs. ON the rear I used a pick tool after the wheel was off to clear the threads. I think one of the lugs left a large amount of aluminum material on the stud and this may be holding the wheel on.

For the Driver side front wheel I plan on heating the lugs slightly before trying to remove them.

Hopefully once the wheel studs are anti-seized this wont happen again.

Oh, as far as Karma not sure, I think its because my German is not too good, and my car must be afraid. My good friend says I have to cover the head lights so I don't spook the car.

[Dunkel is my pet name for my car..'dunkelblau']

Rick Carter

Did you get your wheels off?

JHowell37

On nuts and bolts that are frozen, many times the safer option is to actually use an impact gun to loosen them. Impact guns work not because they generate large amounts of torque(they don't generate much torque to be honest), but because they repeatedly hammer on the nut or bolt. If the engine in your avatar is the one in your car, then I'd imagine the finish on the wheels is comparable, so it's not like you risk damaging anything.

I would bet that more bolts break or get damaged due to cross threading then just about anything. else. Did they screw up on bolts that you already loosened, or did this happen after the new tires went on?

dcrasta

Yes sir.. Success. Although I have seriously scarred one hole where the lug goes. Oh well not like its a super rare set of wheels. I just need to get them all off and anti-seized properly.

JHowell> when i picked up the car the tires were dry-rotted beyond trust. I went directly to a 'used' tire place for a set of non-dryrotted skins (temporary-inspection passers).. When the shop torqued the wheels back on they hammered them with air tools. Its been a nightmare taking them back off. And im sure they went way past the recommended torque values. 3 Down 1 to go. I think I will apply some gentle heat to the lugs nuts and do a few heat/cool cycles before I put the wrench to it.

yes the car in the avatar is the car im working on. Im trying to carefully and systematically fix everything.


Thanks everyone for your help!