USA 1982 l-jet auto
AFC air flow controlled fuel injection

After my ball joint fiasco I went a little overboard and replaced the gas lines, vac lines, had the injectors serviced; basic intake refresh. I followed Chewy8000's thread a few weeks ago and I've been searching, got some new parts but still can't get her to stay running.

The car will crank and start no problem, engine rises to 2,000 rpm and then dies -sounds like it should for these brief seconds

Unplug the AFM electrical connector - car will start and keep running but it runs horrible and very rich with black soot coverning that side of my garage.---while running like that I've jiggled ,wiggled everything vac or electrical I can get my hands on -no change, though I did find and fix a injector vac leak with a small propane tank

So cold starts gets the car running with the AFM plugged in but doesn't tell the ignition brain to take over

I've Y jumpered ignition relay, and jumpered fuel pump relay (pump alwas runs) -always the same results. AFM plugged in, brief start to 2,000 rpm and then die -AFM unplugged crappy rich soot but it runs

Green wire is very green , 14 pin plug taken apart and cleaned, hot jump taken apart and cleaned.
I would immediatley think green wire but when I unplug AFM the car runs --can't be running like that on just the cold start?

New coil
New plug wires magnecore kv85
New plugs bosch wr8dc copper
New battery duralast 49-dl

New engine and injector gas lines
Injectors serviced and cleaned, new o rings large and small
New vacuum lines -all -removed one at a time, cut new length then on to the next
New intake gaskets
Removed air pump plumbing from orange hose back, wasn't hooked into the exhaust anyway,capped vac line

No 02 sensor

New ignition relay
New temp II sensor
Used AFM
New 2/0 battery ground cable
New 4/0 engine ground cable -passenger side
New AFM o ring -black one in the U
New rotor

Removed CE, inspected backside, lightly crimped a few loose spade terminals
Tested continuity of the fuses
Cleaned the CE grounds
Cleaned injection grounds 3x
Cleaned pod grounds
Cleaned front and right grounds by radiator

Battery is on a maintainer and I have 2 gallons new gas in it.

It feels like its something so simple and I'm missing it
Anyone?

 

I don't see any mention of fuel pump or fuel filter.

 

Hey Maleficio,
Used to live in Great Bridge - miss the hush puppies.

Fuel filter new about 2 years ago via PO (my bro)
Fuel pump runs -I know I get fuel because I had a few leaks
at metal front left and back left fuel rail

Banjo gas line and check valve w/ new orings new 9/09
1st time I ever filled the tank -lol leaking everywhere

 

Ok so I should have kept it short but I posted a long one

Anyway here are some ohm readings from the 2 AFM's I have-
1st # original AFM
2nd replacement

Pin 6 & 7 -132, 100
Pin 6 & 8 -438, 362
Pin 6 & 9 -679, 561
Pin 7 & 8 -373, 302
Pin 8 & 9 -245, 201

I haven't found the range for the 82 AFM in the WSM yet - so my replacement might be burnt also --

Anybody have a page # or the range?

 

I have all the pubs....but I'm slamming a few right now.

your fuel delivery is sound, right? So look at ignition. No joy, look at vacuum.

 

Try opening the AFM and bending the arm to ride on a different path.

 

Well as I have 2 afm's with kinda similar readings, I'm not sure a different position on the wiper track will make a differnce
I will open up one and do it but i need to find the #'s 1st...as in which is more out of spec

I'm leaning towards problems in the harness and how to defintely rule each pin out.

I had several mid 80's 740&760 Volvo harnesses go and the solution was point to point or buy 1,000 $
harness

 

The most likely source of the problem is at the connector. So peel back the boot and inspect the wires there.

However have you tried unplugging the temp sensor for the L-jet? Just incase there is a problem there too.

 

You mean the temp ii sensor?
My original crumbled on me and per MK's suggestion,
I used resistor in it's place-worked
then I got a new one - no change

car will not start without temp ii plugged in

I'm gonna razor knife my way into that afm connector and see what happens tomorrow

 

This is so much like working on F/A-18's it's ridiculous.

 

If you work on f/18, this should be a piece of cake

Maleficio- make sure your ball joints are steel, the aluminum ones will fail-- and change out your gas lines...28 years is way over due
I posted pics on my balljoint failure and flatbed ride home -you don't want that to happen to your nice looking car

 

Does the rotor look right for tdc?
Thanks

 

bump

 

No, 180 degrees off or so. It should point toward you.
Rotate the crank again.
Lift that thin plastic cover and you should see a tiny mark on the edge of the distributor that indicates TDC.

 

our cars are being mean because we both live in rhode island.... i hate this state