Landseer

I've found that I can remove my TPS more easily and want to share.

Basically, I remove the passenger & drivers organ pipe plenums.
Then, the center pipe.
Then, separate the throttle body. Four 10 mm bolts w/washers. Use your 1/4 drive extension + your magnet-on-a-stick to remove them.

Be advised, there is a big O-ring under this piece of throttle body, but its in a groove and may stay-put.
Mine is fresh, it came loose, but on reassembly I was able to almost certainly (though blindly) fit it into the groove.


No need to pull off intake runners and/or injector bank. But not for the faint of heart, either.

Voila. Access!

svp928

Nice! good for us 85-86'rs...Thanks

Landseer

We early 32 valvers, led perhaps by Porken and Mike Frye, gotta stick together.

My mission today, besides compression check, was WOT contact adjustment.

The idle contacts worked well. The WOT contacts did not engage until 99%-ish of throttle.

The solder joints, prone to fail, had not.

So I bent the contacts differently. It should engage much earlier. If so, I'll duplicate it on my wife's car. If not, try again.

mj1pate

OK...Thanks. This inspired me to check my TPS and indeed, WOT signal didn't work. Getting to the throttle body mount bolts with the air guide still mounted looked like an inefficient job involving swivel sockets and such. I dismounted the air guide after disconnecting a few hoses (a fair amount of effort) and then the air guide slid forward with the throttle body. Disconnecting the throttle body was easy at that point. Testing the TPS off the car verified WOT wasn't working properly. BTW: I wouldn't try "fixing" the TPS WOT in an old module, without careful study. Metal fatigue seems to be the problem and a remedy besides replacement would require serious investigation.

linderpat

okay, so how do you get that center plenum pipe (the "T") back in without ripping everything apart? I am on a project with an 85 where we got hopelessly stuck - cannot for the life of us get that center T pipe back in to the rubber boot on top of the throttle body, with the two hoses that go into it attached. If we pull the breather hoses off the fittings (which go to the lower side of the T pipe), we can work the plenum in and get the hoses on, but then there is no access to screw the clamps on the hoses.
Any thoughts?

Landseer

Jeez, its been 4 years since that; let me go look at one in garage.

linderpat

Thanks Chris.

Avar928

The hose that connects to the center T also connects to a three-way splitter. Clamp on the hose to the T but let it be free from it's connection to the splitter (you will clamp this down later when you have the T seated, it's way more accessible that the hose fitting on the T itself).

Coat the edge and rim of the T with WD-40, also coat the rim and inner edge of the boot. This will help slide the T on better. I had to do this job after my previous mechanic on an intake refresh installed a way shorter T hose that caused all sorts of stupid problems (which then led me down the path to doing everything myself).

Landseer

Looking at one now, intake on, T-part off.
Other tips that might help:
Very thin smear of silicon dielectric grease inside small hoses.
Looks possible to mount the base, then the T, then push on hoses, or have hoses on first.
Access to all hose clamps from firewall side, using long 1/4 extn, requiring clocking the clamps
Magnet on stick to place the four bolts and washers that tighten to manifold.
Easier if boot that mounts to bottom of T is newer.
Again, clock its clamp toward rear of car.
Little bit of grease inside boot...
I think it should be doable for you.
Call me on cell if you want to collaborate on it further.
I've got one open to experiment with.
Have done it a couple times, but its been a while ago.

PorKen

I recall using a very long, thin, flat blade screwdriver to work around the hose here and there where I could reach it, like a shoehorn, until the T popped in.

dpower$

what is "TPS"

Landseer

Throttle Position sensor, mounted to passenger side of butterfly valve on intake.
Its called-out by the arrows on the picture above.

Getting T pipe back into rubber boot is a heck of a lot easier if the boot is new.

KLVA

Wow…just bout everyone is working on S3's……!!!!!

Remember….Hershey SWAP MEET is April 19th this year

You know where……! Cheers

WyattsRide

This question from Ed, was for my car. With everyone's help, I was able to get my center plenum T back on the throttle body WITH the two hoses clamped down tight! Wow, this shouldn't have been this hard?!

Here's everything I did, so I don't know for sure what helped or didn't.
1a. Stopped swearing and calmed down.
1. Loosened both rubber boot clamps.
2. I rotated both clamp screws on the rubber boot so they faced the passenger side of the car.
3. A little di-electric grease around the top of the rubber boot and the bottom of the T.
4. Disconnected the smaller hose at the T connection in the front.
5. Connected both hoses to the Center T and tightened them down.
6. Working from the passenger side, I worked the Center T into the rubber boot and then used a small flat head screw driver to get the boot over the flange.
7. Tightened both boot clamps from the passenger side.



Thanks for all the suggestions!

I was about to call you Chris. (Ed gave me your #) I'm Glad I didn't have to bother you.

linderpat

WooHoo - it wouldn't be a 928 if it didn't try to beat us at every step, and we wouldn't be us if we let it
Great job Rick. The best advice was probably the stop swearing part - we were like sailors!