16v Upgrades?
#16
I'm with hacker on this. I am in the middle of turning my 16V into a monster. I enjoy the lower complexity of my 16V over the 32V and the fact that people are almost giving away 4.5L motors. A plus for someone like me who will tinker and tune it forever. Yes it would be significantly less to just buy a 32V but what fun would that be?
#17
Rennlist Member
To be perfectly clear, I am not really arguing anything. I have a 16V and love it. I am not asking Hacker how much he spent to gauge the value of his car either.
My 16V car is in pieces right now, trying to eek out a couple of HP. It seems that the easiest path to
300+ HP might be trading it in though.
Hackers car I think of as an exception, not the rule. I have been dying to get up and meet those guys. I would love if Tim would build me the next 16V SC, but I doubt he would, and I know I don't have the scratch anyway.
My 16V car is in pieces right now, trying to eek out a couple of HP. It seems that the easiest path to
300+ HP might be trading it in though.
Hackers car I think of as an exception, not the rule. I have been dying to get up and meet those guys. I would love if Tim would build me the next 16V SC, but I doubt he would, and I know I don't have the scratch anyway.
#18
Nordschleife Master
#19
Nordschleife Master
The hole I see in the sell the OB and buy a 32v tale, is that it might be easier to rebuild the OB the way you want than to sell it at a good price and find and buy a nice 32v. Some of us really HATE the process of selling a car.
The lure of more HP is seductive, but its very important that you know what you actually want before taking too big of a leap. All well running 928's are a pleasure to drive. If your not happy, look carefully at the why, so you don't buy a super charger when what you really need are new motor mounts and refreshing hoses (smoothness and good response). Its not just about HP, there is a reason people enjoy the old 4 cylinder cars, and if you look you can tap into that same feeling with a stock old 928.
The lure of more HP is seductive, but its very important that you know what you actually want before taking too big of a leap. All well running 928's are a pleasure to drive. If your not happy, look carefully at the why, so you don't buy a super charger when what you really need are new motor mounts and refreshing hoses (smoothness and good response). Its not just about HP, there is a reason people enjoy the old 4 cylinder cars, and if you look you can tap into that same feeling with a stock old 928.
#20
Thread Starter
for me its not about SUPER POWER. its about getting a little more pep out of the old girl. i dont plan on selling this car for more power. i like this car to much. Making the old motor breath and exhale better is key for me. but if i have to take the heads off for, lets say, fixing my mess (see first post), then is the great "while im there... " question.
#21
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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There are other 16V's making this kind of power and some even more. I'm not sure if anyone has pushed a 4.5 100% US car this far, probably a good reason for that!!
Get on up here!!!
Don't be so sure about that
Get on up here!!!
Don't be so sure about that
#22
The easiest route to 300hp is to drop in a Euro S / S2 motor since they put out 300 and 310 bhp respectively. S is CIS, S2 is L Jet.
Of course those motors already come with the cams, heads etc to make that power and the higher CR. I don't see the point of pulling apart a 4.5 to spice it up when you could just source a Euro S that comes with that power from the factory and use that as a starting point. The S2 motor has a very aggressive cam profile (peak torque @4100rpm).
The next step would be exhaust system. I put an S2 motor into a 1979 car, we used an S intake and kept the CIS. Runs great, makes 295ft/lb but power topped out at 260bhp. I have now had the injectors refreshed and a couple of serious problems with the build addressed and expect about 280bhp, the rest I think will be hiding in the top end thanks to the old 79 single-pipe exhaust.
But I'm going back to the dyno next week so I'll know more then.
Joel
Of course those motors already come with the cams, heads etc to make that power and the higher CR. I don't see the point of pulling apart a 4.5 to spice it up when you could just source a Euro S that comes with that power from the factory and use that as a starting point. The S2 motor has a very aggressive cam profile (peak torque @4100rpm).
The next step would be exhaust system. I put an S2 motor into a 1979 car, we used an S intake and kept the CIS. Runs great, makes 295ft/lb but power topped out at 260bhp. I have now had the injectors refreshed and a couple of serious problems with the build addressed and expect about 280bhp, the rest I think will be hiding in the top end thanks to the old 79 single-pipe exhaust.
But I'm going back to the dyno next week so I'll know more then.
Joel
#23
Rennlist Member
The Euro S heads with bigger valves are just fine on top of a 95mm bore. No clearance issues or issues caused by clearance.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
#24
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The Euro S heads with bigger valves are just fine on top of a 95mm bore. No clearance issues or issues caused by clearance.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
#26
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I have read so many post in regards to 16v's and if you want power you can get it. Look at hacker, look at the fla turbo guy's.
A recent thread showed a dyno of a S4. 255rwhp or in that ball park, maybe lower.
Your 4.5 w/ headers should be where I am. 200rwhp mark. Euro heads and cams should get you to 250rwhp. Thats the same as an S4! You will be lighter, the sound of the 16V is superior in my ears. It would also be a lot cheaper and more fun than selling your car and buying a S4. Thats how I see it.
There was a member Jack Rifle or something like that, all he did was a cam and head change......no intake tb runners etc just heads and cams Dyno'd over 250rwhp and that was w/ a auto! So why would you sell an OB for not a lot these day's to buy a unknown(mechanical problems)S4 for 10k plus and then you will want to mod that! x-pipe, shark tune, all that cost money too!
If you like/love your car, just keep moding it over time and one day she will be exactly what YOU WANT!
For me I looked at the fact that the 928 platform's is safe in under 500rwhp. Safe is relative when you are dealing w/ 500rwhp. If it is for the street, 500rwhp will be almost impossible to use and keep it to the ground. Again if it is a street car 350rwhp to 400rwhp is a better bet and still slip and slid material. So what are your HP goals?
What do you think a forged bottom end 4.5L will do with 17lbs of boost? All I can say is hold on!
A 32v will make more power than a 16v, not hard to figure that out. Can you 16v make power and put a smile on your face, sure it can.
Stephen
A recent thread showed a dyno of a S4. 255rwhp or in that ball park, maybe lower.
Your 4.5 w/ headers should be where I am. 200rwhp mark. Euro heads and cams should get you to 250rwhp. Thats the same as an S4! You will be lighter, the sound of the 16V is superior in my ears. It would also be a lot cheaper and more fun than selling your car and buying a S4. Thats how I see it.
There was a member Jack Rifle or something like that, all he did was a cam and head change......no intake tb runners etc just heads and cams Dyno'd over 250rwhp and that was w/ a auto! So why would you sell an OB for not a lot these day's to buy a unknown(mechanical problems)S4 for 10k plus and then you will want to mod that! x-pipe, shark tune, all that cost money too!
If you like/love your car, just keep moding it over time and one day she will be exactly what YOU WANT!
For me I looked at the fact that the 928 platform's is safe in under 500rwhp. Safe is relative when you are dealing w/ 500rwhp. If it is for the street, 500rwhp will be almost impossible to use and keep it to the ground. Again if it is a street car 350rwhp to 400rwhp is a better bet and still slip and slid material. So what are your HP goals?
What do you think a forged bottom end 4.5L will do with 17lbs of boost? All I can say is hold on!
A 32v will make more power than a 16v, not hard to figure that out. Can you 16v make power and put a smile on your face, sure it can.
Stephen
#27
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm not trying to argue, I just don't want you to base your lione of thought on a sickly S4.
Carry on
#28
Rennlist Member
Dan, get that thing to a dyno man. You really need to think about changing those exhaust manifolds to the 85-86 style of to the MSDS headers. The stock exhaust manifolds on the 16v's are restrictive as it is. With your mods, you are probably leaving a good bit on the table by keepiong the stock exhaust manifolds. And it's an easy swap too.
#29
Nordschleife Master
The Euro S heads with bigger valves are just fine on top of a 95mm bore. No clearance issues or issues caused by clearance.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
#30
Rennlist Member
The Euro S heads with bigger valves are just fine on top of a 95mm bore. No clearance issues or issues caused by clearance.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
The smaller combustion chamber on the euro s head's bumped my compression ratio from 8.5:1 way up to 10:1 with no detonation problems whatsoever. This is a big win overall.
I have the Euro S cams installed too. (I've heard the 78-9 cams are already good.)
Stock intake, stock exhaust manifolds, borla cat-back.
Haven't dyno-d, but enjoying it nevertheless.
cheers,