Mongo

I'm going to be playing around with an air fuel ratio gauge soon and a car with an ROW coding plug causing the O2 sensor to become useless. With that being said, I want to install the gauge in the ashtray using the O2 bung for AFR readings. I'm looking at gauges by Autometer that are 2 1/16."

I have seen some installs where people have drilled a 2" hole into the ashtray lid and mounted gauges that way as well as removing the cigarette lighter. However, I wish to retain my cigarette lighter (even though I don't smoke.) Since the fuse for the lighter has an Add-A-Circuit for my radar detector, I want to install a switch between the gauge and the lighter, so when I need to charge my phone, I can turn the gauge off and turn the lighter on. My question is: if this may have any negative effect on the electrics between the two, or cause fuse failures more often?

For the install, I'm going to drill the ashtray lid slightly larger than the 2 1/16," and mount the gauge in the ashtray area with a piece of thin, flat plexiglass or hobby plastic between the gauge. I will also install the switch next to the gauge. The larger diameter hole in the ashtray lid is for clearance when flipping it closed to hide the cigarette lighter and switch. The gauge will be visible still of course due to that hole. I'll post pics when I get the gauge and do the install.

Ducman82

cant wait to see what you end up doing. why dont you just tap in to the cig lighter power and call it good? i have done that on all sorts of cars and truck with autometer gauges to no ill effects

Mongo

I am tapping into it, but it will be switched between powering the gauge and cigarette lighter, but not both at the same time. This is because I have the radar detector operating off the same spot on the fuse panel. All in all there would be 3 circuits functioning off that specific fuse block. Only 2 will be active at the same time though.

Jim M.

Andy,

When you cut the panel for the ash tray you will destroy the mount for the cig lighter. When I did my 3 gauge panel (see avatar) I moved the lighter to the package shelf back wall. Just a short extension of the wiring. Also the radar detector and the cell phone charger (and most likly the A/F gauge) use very small amperage. They could all be moved to a smaller circuit with no problems. You do need the lighter to operate the small air compressor in the event of a flat tire, which is why I kept mine.

chewy8000

I went with an innovate motorsports AFR gauge on my 81' it popped In the clock hole nice and snug.

Mongo

Got my gauge today. I'll be working on it tomorrow after helping out a customer with an auto detail. It's a Sunpro CP7011 for $20. Just searched the model number on Google Shopping and it popped up from some online tools store!

Mike Frye

Andy,

I had the same idea. Make sure you have clearance, I think you'll be surprised when you start working with it how little room there is to work in there under the lid. When it slides open and closed it's VERY close to the top, like rubbing (which is why the stock lighter is recessed).

On the bright side, the entire lighter assembly just lifts out and can be replaced if you don't like it or want to go back to stock.

I'm putting the whole thing on hold now that Champagne is going to be selling a custom carputer with console insert. Not sure if I'll go for the whole thing right away, but I gotta think the insert will be easier to work with/customize than the stock setup with all those holes in it already.

Mongo

I was thinking of drilling a 2 1/8" hole in the lid for clearance so the gauge will show whenever opening or closing it.

Mongo

A small update. I have changed my concept of installing the AFR gauge. I don't want to chop up my ashtray, but rather I am thinking of installing it on the parcel shelf just below the dash and pod on the driver side. I have some balsa wood I can cut and form a box. I will either carpet it or spray paint it black and clear coat it to make it somewhat 'original'

Who here has done a gauge install in this location? I saw pics of Tony's install on his silver '87 and it was a magnificent job! I only saw one pic though, but that surely had a thousand words.

AO

You need it in a place where you can read it quickly. If it's too far away or in a place where it takes time to refocus your eyes, it won't be useful. A-pilar, center vent stack (like mine), or ash tray seem to be preferred/best locations. Personally, I tried the ash-tray location and found it too low (couldn't use periferal vision to look ahead), and I didn't want an A-pilar mount becasue of my classic grey interior (black would have clashed), so I went with the center HCAV stack. Just my $0.02.

Mongo

I saw this picture a while back. I really like your setup. Sadly, mine is one of those circular ones.

danglerb

I think I bought that same Sunpro off amazon in some late night bargain hunt. Its not a wideband, so I am wondering just how well it works in terms of accuracy etc. I suggest trying it out before cutting holes etc. to be sure it does what you want.

Mongo

For $20, I couldn't say no to this narrowband. I would like to get Carl's A-pillar kit eventually. This will suffice for now with my NB O2 sensor.

Alan

On the electrical front I have no idea why you are thinking of installing a switch... if you don't use your cigarette lighter for anything but powering accessories the current draw is small enough that you needn't worry. However your guages need ignition switched power not permanent power (so does you radar detector unless you like draining the battery...).

If you are going to do it - do it right and connect both via fused feeds from an ignition supply. You can use the radio switched supply for this - its actually not ignition switched - its accessory switched - but its close enough, handy, not fused and plenty big enough for this usage.

Alan

Mongo

I am not going to do a switch anymore. I was thinking of using the radio this weekend to power it as it is switched.