Looking to buy a 928S Euro
#1
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I have been wanting a 928 for awhile. i now have a chance to buy a 1980 auto Euro model.
It's been sitting four years and it doesn't run. Compression range from 80 psi to 170.
The only thing I can say is that the body is straight. Other wise it seem it will need a complete restoration.
Asking price is $1500.
What do guys think.
I can do all the work myself but not sure what the cost of parts will be or difficulty in obtaining.
Any advise would be appriciated.
It's been sitting four years and it doesn't run. Compression range from 80 psi to 170.
The only thing I can say is that the body is straight. Other wise it seem it will need a complete restoration.
Asking price is $1500.
What do guys think.
I can do all the work myself but not sure what the cost of parts will be or difficulty in obtaining.
Any advise would be appriciated.
#2
Nordschleife Master
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1980 to 1982 two Euro models were offered, both CIS injection, S was 300 hp and non S basically the same as US 78/79 around 220 to 230 depending on how it was federalized.
"Asking price is $1500."
Takes a rich man to buy a cheap Porsche, are you?
If its a Euro S it has some parts value, but as described I would not be offering close to $1500. If its not a Euro S, just a Euro, not much in useful parts and lots of work removing them.
"Asking price is $1500."
Takes a rich man to buy a cheap Porsche, are you?
If its a Euro S it has some parts value, but as described I would not be offering close to $1500. If its not a Euro S, just a Euro, not much in useful parts and lots of work removing them.
#3
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where are you located............. folks here may have some suggestions for you.
#4
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I'm in North Florida.
Engine code is M28/12
is there a way to check it?
It's a complete car that has been sitting.
I spoke with the owner a few minutes ago and he said all the cylinders are low.
Engine does turn over but I know that only means it's not locked up.
What would be a fair offer?
Engine code is M28/12
is there a way to check it?
It's a complete car that has been sitting.
I spoke with the owner a few minutes ago and he said all the cylinders are low.
Engine does turn over but I know that only means it's not locked up.
What would be a fair offer?
#6
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M28/12 is '80-83 300hp 4.7L S automatic engine.
http://members.rennlist.com/vilhuer/928EngineSpecs.gif
http://members.rennlist.com/vilhuer/928EngineSpecs.gif
#7
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Spend some more and save a LOT. It will hurt your wallet to buy another better but still used 300hp Euro motor. Buying the car you see now means you have no clue what else is wrong with it. ie: The trans was barely holding together when he parked it. Four years later the seals are all dry so it needs an overhaul. The torque tube bearings are noisy but you don't know until the engine runs.
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A few months ago I looked hard at a CL listing for a 86.5 in the Carolinas for $3500, a running/driving car that looked OK in pictures. Much cheaper than the one you are looking at for $1500. There are other rennlisters in your area who will set your expectations correctly, and may guide you to a much better car for not much more money.
Someone help this person before he falls into the abyss!!
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A few months ago I looked hard at a CL listing for a 86.5 in the Carolinas for $3500, a running/driving car that looked OK in pictures. Much cheaper than the one you are looking at for $1500. There are other rennlisters in your area who will set your expectations correctly, and may guide you to a much better car for not much more money.
Someone help this person before he falls into the abyss!!
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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I'm in North Florida.
Engine code is M28/12
is there a way to check it?
It's a complete car that has been sitting.
I spoke with the owner a few minutes ago and he said all the cylinders are low.
Engine does turn over but I know that only means it's not locked up.
What would be a fair offer?
Engine code is M28/12
is there a way to check it?
It's a complete car that has been sitting.
I spoke with the owner a few minutes ago and he said all the cylinders are low.
Engine does turn over but I know that only means it's not locked up.
What would be a fair offer?
What do you plan to do with it?
To me bad paint and interior means parts car, I would offer something like $500 in cash, trailer it away, blow if off with compressed air to remove the insects etc., then pull the engine and a handful of other parts and go looking for a nice US 78/79 with a bad engine, but at a minimum good original paint.
Trying to start a CI$ car without flushing the tank and fuel lines will likely cost a LOT of money to eventually fix completely.
#10
Nordschleife Master
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Needs engine work and firm at $1500, I would not waste my time.
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1660945044.html
1980 Porsche 928. It is the S model and it is a Euro model imported from Germany. Not a US model. It has 300hp vs. 220hp U.S. This is a project car. It needs engine work and interior work. Car does not run, and engine may need partial or full rebuild. Interior needs work. Exterior paint is yellow and is not original. Original color is burgandy. I am only asking $1500 for it and I am extremely firm. I have a clean Florida Title on hand.
Serious buyers only call 321-217-4986
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1660945044.html
1980 Porsche 928. It is the S model and it is a Euro model imported from Germany. Not a US model. It has 300hp vs. 220hp U.S. This is a project car. It needs engine work and interior work. Car does not run, and engine may need partial or full rebuild. Interior needs work. Exterior paint is yellow and is not original. Original color is burgandy. I am only asking $1500 for it and I am extremely firm. I have a clean Florida Title on hand.
Serious buyers only call 321-217-4986
#12
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I was offered the same year and model that was running but needed some int and paint work for $1500. I think it eventually sold for about $1000, maybe $800.
Basically, all you really care about is the motor. The rest of the car can be crushed AFAIC. If you want to retain originality, it's gonna run +$10k to get it back in fighting trim, and the most you'll ever get for a very nice, but not showroom 80 Euro auto is about $6k.
Even if he gave it away, it would still be too expensive. Tell him you'll give him $700 for the engine, and he can sell the rest of the car to a breakers yard.
Basically, all you really care about is the motor. The rest of the car can be crushed AFAIC. If you want to retain originality, it's gonna run +$10k to get it back in fighting trim, and the most you'll ever get for a very nice, but not showroom 80 Euro auto is about $6k.
Even if he gave it away, it would still be too expensive. Tell him you'll give him $700 for the engine, and he can sell the rest of the car to a breakers yard.
#13
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OK Guys,
I'm glad I found this site.
Done deal, I'll keep looking.
I just answer the Orlando CL ad. It's the same car.
I went to Kissimmi to see the car but thats close enough from Orlando.
Thanks a bunch guys, in the mean time I will get familiar with this forum.
I'm glad I found this site.
Done deal, I'll keep looking.
I just answer the Orlando CL ad. It's the same car.
I went to Kissimmi to see the car but thats close enough from Orlando.
Thanks a bunch guys, in the mean time I will get familiar with this forum.
#14
Nordschleife Master
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Take lots of picts when you look over a potential car, its the best way we can make informed responses without a lot of guessing.
What sort of car are you looking for?
What sort of car are you looking for?
#15
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Check South Florida CL, I think there was one listed down there that looked pretty good. I am going to pick up the '83 Euro S I bought in about a half an hour, and looked at that Euro in Orlando, strictly as a parts car, but don't think I'm going to need enough parts to justify an entire parts car. Good luck with finding something that will work for you.
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