jon928se

Fitting new speakers throughout the car and I want to retain the original speaker grilles.

Anybody know how to separate the original speaker frame from the outer bezel ? - looks like it's glued in place .

Dissolve the glue ?

Cut it out ?

TIA

S4ordie

Hey Jon, Sorry no help here but I am curious what speakers are you putting in? I'm at the stage on project car to begin design of the audio system. As the panels are depth limited it makes it a challenge to upgrade.

Thanks,
Dan

GlennD

Hi,

Not sure if this helps ... but on my 86, the door speaker grills screwed off. I just turned them counterclockwise ... and off they came.

Good luck
Glenn

anpo

Please post a reply with your results and findings when finished. I as well would prefer new speakers but would rather have silence than not being able to install them in the original grill.

I think we're talking about separating speakers from their frames, not grills from door panel. Also early cars unscrew from door panel, later unsnap.

jon928se

Anders

Yes you're right separating spkrs from the original frame - I'll thake a pic in a minute to make it clearer

Hi Dan

Sort of a cobbled together speaker system - I picked a set of Infinity reference 6510CS 6" mid/bass plus tweeters and X over for about $50US in a sale at the local auto parts shop. They didn't have any infinity 4" speakers so I took what they recommended 2 pairs of - Pioneer TS E1076. They all fit in the original spaces without additional spacers.

Rear 4" bolts straight in. Front 4" - fits fine with the pioneer grilles - I want the original grilles so some adaptaion of the originals is required.

The Infinity 6" are slightly too small (diameter) for the orignal speaker trims so some additonal brackets need to be fabricated to fix them to the OEM speaker surround.- you can do wonders with bent aluminium plate.

The infinity tweeters are in theory not required as the pioneers have a co axial tweeter . However I've glued them into the the oem tweeter frame. - Will have to play around with X overs to dtermine what works best.

Head unit will remain for now a 14 year old sony unit which had a 10CD Changer (now removed) - the phono inputs it used will connect to an ipod. Eventually when I find a head unit I like at a reasonable price that is black, has a rotary volume control, USB or SD card front input (and a cassette deck LOL) I will upgrade assuming I can find an amp for the rear that fits in the original position.

benny65

I got a set of 5.5 speaker grill off ebay, worked great on the door and the hatch. Made out of metal, looks almost original to you don't look to hard at it. Hope this helps.

jon928se

Heres where I need to separate the front



Same place on the rear of the OEM speaker showing the joint between the speaker bezel and the speaker frame



Cheers

S4ordie

Thanks Jon.

Are the infinity speakers like most current speakers, 4 ohm as opposed to the original 2 ohm? From what I've read here on several of the audio upgrade threads if you move to 4ohm speakers you need to add and external bass in order to achieve same/better sound than the original speakers.

Hilton

Interestingly, I just checked and the 4" rear speakers (original 10 speaker system from '89) are 4 ohm, but the 6.5" woofers are 2 ohm. Don't have the door speakers in here to check them, but it seems the original system was a mixture of impedances.

Stromius

Jon did a similar thing but was able to fabricate a new bezel out of 1/8" ABS plastic sheet. I measured the ID of the original speaker grill. They snap on and have not had an issue since. I made a template out of wood then used a router table to cut the outer diamter. The inner diameter will depend on the speaker in question. The four mounting holes should line up pretty easily. I also made bezels to mount Sony 1" tweaters in place of the original, smaller speakers in my S4.

jmrjames

Someone stripped out the factory system from my 91 and installed a Blaupunkt Lexington CM84. They took the amp, crossovers and tweeters. They replaced the 4" speakers with a Model 4 China speaker which now need repair. Of course they messed up the factory wiring. I have not looked at what they did to the 6" ones.

Now I am in the market for almost or an entire new system. The first hurdle is find things that fit. Most of the threads here are outdated because the products seem to be now discontinued.

The MB Quart PVF 210 has been replaced with the PVI 210 which appears now to exceed the space allowed for installation.

At this point the only door and maybe rear woofer and tweeter with crossovers seems to be a MTX Audio TX4001. Anyone have experience with these ?

jon928se

the 88SE (8 speaker system) had 4 ohm rear 4" speakers, rear 6.5" speakers are 4 ohm. and 4" door speakers are 4 ohm. Door tweeters also 4 ohm. I know these are all original as they have 928 part numbers on them.

jon928se

Hi Dan
All the new speakers are 4 Ohm (as were all the original ones in my '88SE)

The difference between a 2ohm and 4 ohm speaker, simplistically speaking, just means that you need to turn up the volume more to generate the same SPL. Assuming the head unit is capable of that.

Most modern head units are designed for 4 ohm speakers hence no problem. More likely to run into problems using a modern head unit to drive 2ohm speakers as the head unit will generate too much current at too low a voltage.