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GTS Suspension upgrade part 1

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 11:55 PM
  #16  
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Orange springs are the very rare M637.............were having a discussion on the my 90 GT suspension thread.

Is there any option code that confirms a suspension/spring upgrade?
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Orange springs are the very rare M637.............were having a discussion on the my 90 GT suspension thread.

Is there any option code that confirms a suspension/spring upgrade?
Interesting. I don't think there is anything noted on the option code sticker but I'll look today and confirm.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #18  
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Glad to see you are using more than the recommended spring compressors. Our local Ford shop had a front spring go ape **** and it is embedded in the block wall 15 feet up. They have left it there as a reminder to everyone in the shop how much power is in a coil spring. Never can been too careful

Last edited by jeff spahn; Mar 7, 2010 at 10:29 AM. Reason: spelling correction on reminder
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:49 AM
  #19  
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I suspect the person that is under the spring when it finally decides to fall out of the wall from 15 feet up will get a first-hand tutorial in the kinetic energy stored in that particular spring, No?
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Z
The fronts are "sport" springs from Porsche and the rears are going to be the stock springs
Does anyone know the spring rate these would be?

Does this vary by year between the different sport suspension or just early / late?
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #21  
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The WSM is vague on sport spring rates. Here's what is listed for 'brown' painted front springs:
Attached Images
File Type: png
spring rates.PNG (17.5 KB, 47 views)
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Does anyone know the spring rate these would be?

Does this vary by year between the different sport suspension or just early / late?
The standard springs are supposed to be:

1 brown mark: 191 - 197 lb/in
2 brown marks: 197 - 203 lb/in
3 brown marks: 203 - 209 lb/in

Orange marked springs are said to be 8% stiffer than standard springs, and therefore at most 226 lb/in. Also note that they are paired with the standard M474 shocks on the Club Sport cars.

A bit from the aftermarket springs.

EDIT: This should be easy to test in practical life, before the springs are installed. Apply a pressure of 226 and expect to see a compression of 1 inch. I have a feeling that it takes more than 226 pounds to do that, and therefore the rating is on the low side. Just a feeling I have.

EDIT 2: This document may be handy: http://928clubsport.free.fr/collecti...se.php?idrep=3

When will Samuels magnificent CS site be back in service ? Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease !


Ragnar
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #23  
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Chuck,
That's going to look really good when you're done!

You may want to take the time to clean and paint your dust shields. You could mask everything off with the fronts on the car so you don't have to pull the front hubs off. Rears are a snap to remove after remove the rotors.

Also, you will probably want to paint the hats on those Zimmerman Rotors as well. I know the Zimmerman's on the 79 were unpainted and rusted really quickly. I painted them with rustoleum hammered paint on recommendation from Roger and Jim M. It's made to paint right over rust, but you can paint the bare hats no problem. I also unded up painting the edges or "vanes" on the edges of the rotors as well.

Here's the paint

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProductFinde...ST&bsq=F&bid=8

You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes. I used a paintbrush as I did not want to remove the hats. It will be easier for you to spray the hats and Vanes while they are off the car. The hammered Silver will "match" your wheels the best, hide dirt, and brakedust that you can't get to every single time you wipe your wheels off. The paint hides imperfections and is pretty durable.

Keep us posted, I'm right behind you on this project by a few months!!
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 928drvr86.5
I suspect the person that is under the spring when it finally decides to fall out of the wall from 15 feet up will get a first-hand tutorial in the kinetic energy stored in that particular spring, No?
You may be right Ben. I just don't want to be that guy. FWIW, I don't think the whole spring is up there just the part of it protruding from the wall doesn't appear to be a whole spring.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:25 PM
  #25  
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If you remove the top shock nut before you lift the car, you don't need compresssors for removal. As you jack/lift the car it all comes apart slowly.

p.s. I can't believe the factory springs are that soft. Holy cow! My 600/400 feel a little stiff, but not when really going.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:10 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Schreiber
Chuck,
That's going to look really good when you're done!

You may want to take the time to clean and paint your dust shields. You could mask everything off with the fronts on the car so you don't have to pull the front hubs off. Rears are a snap to remove after remove the rotors.

Also, you will probably want to paint the hats on those Zimmerman Rotors as well. I know the Zimmerman's on the 79 were unpainted and rusted really quickly. I painted them with rustoleum hammered paint on recommendation from Roger and Jim M. It's made to paint right over rust, but you can paint the bare hats no problem. I also unded up painting the edges or "vanes" on the edges of the rotors as well.

Here's the paint

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProductFinde...ST&bsq=F&bid=8

You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes. I used a paintbrush as I did not want to remove the hats. It will be easier for you to spray the hats and Vanes while they are off the car. The hammered Silver will "match" your wheels the best, hide dirt, and brakedust that you can't get to every single time you wipe your wheels off. The paint hides imperfections and is pretty durable.

Keep us posted, I'm right behind you on this project by a few months!!

Chuck, will the Rustoleum paint take the heat from the rotors?
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:13 AM
  #27  
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Rick,
The paint holds up really well. I've had it on the 79 for several years with no problems.
Roger here and Jim Mayzurk both painted their hats before I did and that's where I got the idea from. Both Jim's and Roger's still look good.
BTW, Jim's GTS is a daily driver.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 11:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Schreiber
Chuck,
That's going to look really good when you're done!

You may want to take the time to clean and paint your dust shields. You could mask everything off with the fronts on the car so you don't have to pull the front hubs off. Rears are a snap to remove after remove the rotors.

Also, you will probably want to paint the hats on those Zimmerman Rotors as well. I know the Zimmerman's on the 79 were unpainted and rusted really quickly. I painted them with rustoleum hammered paint on recommendation from Roger and Jim M. It's made to paint right over rust, but you can paint the bare hats no problem. I also unded up painting the edges or "vanes" on the edges of the rotors as well.

Here's the paint

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProductFinde...ST&bsq=F&bid=8

You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes. I used a paintbrush as I did not want to remove the hats. It will be easier for you to spray the hats and Vanes while they are off the car. The hammered Silver will "match" your wheels the best, hide dirt, and brakedust that you can't get to every single time you wipe your wheels off. The paint hides imperfections and is pretty durable.

Keep us posted, I'm right behind you on this project by a few months!!
Hey Chuck!

Thanks for the post.

My rotors and calipers are ready to go (well, except the rear calipers which need to be repainted...... again!):



I actually used a high temp silver to paint the hats and followed up with a product called Pelucid from POR15 (http://www.por15.com/) It's a rock hard clearcoat that doesn't yellow and is chip resistant.

For the dust shields, I plan on using another product from POR15 called Black Velvet (http://www.por15.com/BLACK-VELVET/productinfo/BVG/) to refinish them.

I have used all these products b/f and have been extremely pleased with them.

As clean as my GTS is, I never cleaned the underside like I did Kermit and plan to do so as part of this project. There is a ton of cosmoline that needs to come off........ fun.. fun!
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #29  
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Oh maaan...you didn't use that paint that changes color with maximum temperature it reaches to see how hot your hats were getting?!?
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 928andRC51
If you remove the top shock nut before you lift the car, you don't need compresssors for removal. As you jack/lift the car it all comes apart slowly.

p.s. I can't believe the factory springs are that soft. Holy cow! My 600/400 feel a little stiff, but not when really going.
Carl, during my research I saw where you've posted this on another thread. I opted not to try this b/c the front on my GTS has not sagged and when I loosened everything up I couldn't even get the strut low enough to get the three mounting studs from the top of the fender. I was concerned there was too much "spring" in it and when I loosened up the lower control arm it would have been a loaded gun....... I think loosening up the lower control arm was the only way I was getting the coilover out.
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