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Removing Surface Oxidation from Metal Engine Components

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Old 03-01-2010, 05:05 PM
  #16  
Mongo
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I suppose that would work too. Part of me wants to paint them so I don't have to be replating years later. I know it will be YEARS, but with painting, I've noticed a little bit of quick wax on painted components shines it up for a long time. I painted almost every engine part on my 944 with the exception of the block and the fuel regulators/dampers. It came out to look really good!

For the rails on the 944, I used a flat black, but masked the actual lines themselves off, including the welds to the body of the rail. I then, went over the lines with a high-heat silver, but did not paint the flared ends. The nuts were painted flat black also so I could touch them up later if I beat them up with the wrench putting them back on.

In the case with the shark, I am going to look into paints that mimic a brass or zinc look. I found a pic online of a guy that painted his master cylinder on an old vintage domestic with some sort of gold made by Duplicolor, than used a high-heat clear to tone down the shine. It doesn't look exactly like the zinc, but looked pretty good.

I'm going to experiment with the throttle linkage bracket before doing anything else. I can always repaint the bracket black after stripping it with aircraft remover.

Last edited by Mongo; 03-01-2010 at 05:25 PM.
Old 03-01-2010, 05:09 PM
  #17  
Bill51sdr
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Off list I suggested to Andy that CLR might work on the non-aluminum parts. I have heard this works on oxidation, but not 100% sure how it affects the plating. Anyone?
Old 03-01-2010, 05:10 PM
  #18  
911tracker85
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the Eastwood CAD paint will not produce a finish like the original CAD. and yes, it is paint so will chip if abused.

if my 928 was 'special/collectable' I would have been hesitant to try the CAD paint. and would have gone powdercoat than paint on the intake. but with all the parts off, I just could not put them back on looking like raw metal.

I should have tried a little more practice with the CAD paint but did not want to run out in the process. I do suspect with my advice/experience and a little practice you could get a decent result. but again, if your 928 has collectable potential or you really want to look correct/original I would be cautious.

and if you want a really spakly effect, go heavy on the gold base and you'll get it.

Eastwood garage also has a 'yello zinc' plating kits too. but a lot more expensive expecially if you order enough of the product to be able to plate larger peices such as the fuel rails. I tried checking in my area but could not find anybody who does yellow zinc plating locally.

PS, I would post a pic of my results but my browser keeps crashing when I try.
Old 03-01-2010, 05:40 PM
  #19  
jeff spahn
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
If you're just trying to prevent/minimize light oxidation, a light spray of WD-40 will do wonders to keep things shiny and preserved.
I have been using a product called "Fluid Film" to protect my stuff. John Deere uses it to protect equipment for overseas journeys so I know it will work for my cheap (compared to a Combine) car.
Old 03-01-2010, 09:03 PM
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You can power wash it and most of it wil come off. Stay away from the distributors and coils.



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