Isn't there only one ground for the system?

Jim, did you measure voltage at the connector using the same ground and the white then yellow wires? It be interesting to note any voltage difference that may have caused the bulbs to blow in the first place.

 

I'll check voltage before installing new bulbs. Just 8 am here so not yet off to buy bulbs.

 

The test light test needs to look at voltage to actual ground as well as voltage to the ground connection in the plug to the bulb. That ground in the harness is the solid brown wire. If you measure accidentally between the high- and low-beam pins with the low-beams on, you might see just a glow in the test light for current passing to the dash indicator bulb. This ASSumes that the other high-beam bulb is pullled r the fuse for same is pulled or blown.

On the bulb sockets for the H5 bulbs, I went through a slew of them while I had 80/100W bulbs installed. They would melt around the termnals, specifically the ground terminals in the sockets. Got to the point where I carried spare sockets, and installed bullet connectors on the wires leading to them so they could be changed conveniently out on the road. I ended up pulling out the high-watage bulbs, removing the Bob-installed relays and wiring, and put the original stuff back with Silverstar bulbs. The slight extra brightness wasn't worth the constant aggravation of the sockets melting.

 

there are 3 ground points under the light bar (2) and then one near the hot post might be under the coil clan as many as you can find

 

Forgot to report the results of my high beam problem. Checked grounds and voltage at all 4 terminals, 11.77 volts each. Installed the new bulbs and last time I looked I had high beams. Looked about for the missing lock ring with no success. Probably forget about it for now. Thanks to all.