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Old 02-18-2010, 01:29 AM
  #31  
dr bob
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After swapping PM's with Rob on Histoclear, I went down to the trash to reread the bottle directions and look for the actual concentration of limonene. It doesn't listthe percentage there or on the MSDS, so no good way to compare the ZEP with real Histoclear. I also made a mistake when I shared that extra ingredient in the ZEP product-- it's monoethanolamine, not diethanolamine as previousy shared. Does tat make much difference in the way it works?

I also diluted the product 8:1, the concentration recommended for casual degreasing. For doing car engines, they do recommend using it full strength rather than diluted. When I do the bottom again, it will be at full strength. No risk of damaging electrical stuff down underneath, so it should be safe for the full strength solution. Hopefully it wil do a better job on the undercoating and the cosmoline, as Dennis recommends. More after Saturday, likely the next play-day with James' '85 Euro.
Old 02-18-2010, 03:03 AM
  #32  
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Can I just tell you all how HAPPY I AM THAT EURO85 IS HAVING SOME GOOD SPA TIME WITH DR. BOB?!!! Yes, I am yelling that because HE IS A STUD! Just look at the before and after engine shots of EURO85! HUGE DIFFERENCE!

THANK YOU DR. BOB!
Old 02-18-2010, 11:47 AM
  #33  
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Shhhhh evrybody! Don't tell James that his car is a Guinea Pig for the cleaning chems testing. It will be our little forum secret...
Old 02-18-2010, 12:35 PM
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Rob Edwards
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Bob-

I went to the surplus place in Costa Mesa yesterday and picked up a new cleaning tool that I want to try on James' car. I tried the limonene/paraffin oil/kerosene mix in it last night out on the nature preserve, worked pretty well:

Old 02-18-2010, 12:48 PM
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goodspeed928
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That thing would clean all kind's of parts
Old 02-18-2010, 05:15 PM
  #36  
dr bob
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Good idea, but there would be a neighborhood uprising to supplement the full-tilt airborne helicopter attack that would quickly follow the first puff of the flame-thrower here. When you folks see news coverage of Cali brush fires in the Los Angeles area, it's almost always visible from our front yard. Look in the background of the picture with the shrouded car, and you'll get a sample of the vegetation that's covering the hillside across the gulch from the house. We invest heavily in "fuel management" every year to keep the growth in check. The fire insurance costs here are close to what the mortgage payments were on my most-previous house purchase.

FWIW, the ZEP citrus stuff is flammable/explosive per the label.
Old 02-18-2010, 09:54 PM
  #37  
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Definitely try it undiluted. I guess the surfactant in the ZEP allows it to be diluted w/ water. Histoclear is pretty hydrophobic.

That pic you posted shows some serious Cosmoline. It might take some long soaking to get rid of that.


Originally Posted by dr bob
After swapping PM's with Rob on Histoclear, I went down to the trash to reread the bottle directions and look for the actual concentration of limonene. It doesn't listthe percentage there or on the MSDS, so no good way to compare the ZEP with real Histoclear. I also made a mistake when I shared that extra ingredient in the ZEP product-- it's monoethanolamine, not diethanolamine as previousy shared. Does tat make much difference in the way it works?

I also diluted the product 8:1, the concentration recommended for casual degreasing. For doing car engines, they do recommend using it full strength rather than diluted. When I do the bottom again, it will be at full strength. No risk of damaging electrical stuff down underneath, so it should be safe for the full strength solution. Hopefully it wil do a better job on the undercoating and the cosmoline, as Dennis recommends. More after Saturday, likely the next play-day with James' '85 Euro.
Old 02-19-2010, 04:14 AM
  #38  
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I think that's undercoating over the cosmoline.
Old 02-19-2010, 04:42 PM
  #39  
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Thanks Rob! 928 Flambe! It would be sterile too after you got done with that bit of gear for sure!
Old 02-25-2010, 01:46 PM
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I should have my Histoclear this weekend. I am ready to tear this 4.7 Euro down and rebuild.
Old 02-25-2010, 10:26 PM
  #41  
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Dr Bob, do you get a lot of water in the engine valley when you rinse off the top of the engine? Are there any places that you took special precautions? I like the results but I'm still nervous about getting the engine wet.
Old 02-26-2010, 01:04 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by pokegama
Dr Bob, do you get a lot of water in the engine valley when you rinse off the top of the engine? Are there any places that you took special precautions? I like the results but I'm still nervous about getting the engine wet.
That valley gets water in it, and there are a few cavities that retain water under the manifold. I try to cover the obvious sensors (two temp sensors on this one), and the distributor caps if the engine is warm. For the '85, I rinsed with a shower/fog spray, no direct water stream on any of the sensitive stuff.

When I did my S4 a few years ago, I ended up replacing the intake switch for the cooling fans a week or so after the washing. I had been gentle with the hose but it still drew in some water.

On the '85, be aware that the engine bay cleaning I did is JUST the top stuff. The front below the plastic covers, sides below the headers, the bellhousing and oil sump areas are still to be done. Those will get a full-strength shot of the citrus degreaser, and if that doesn't get it done it will get some foamy engine brite cleaner. The engine cleaner is a chore with the runoff containment, so I'm really hoping that the degreaser and some detergent will get it done OK.
Old 02-26-2010, 12:43 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by dr bob
Wonder how it compares with the ZEP Orange Degreaser from H-D (which isn't that great...)
Originally Posted by dr bob
FYI the group, I spent some time yesterday with James Morrison's '85 Euro S, a half a gallon of ZEP orange clean citrus degreaser concentrate in 4 gallons of hot water, and went after the engine with that stuff in the garden sprayer. The ZEP is the same as Histoclear, plus it has an additional surfactant. With nothing beyond spraying it on and leting it work for a while, the ersults are very impressive. I'll post pics to a new thread specific to the car, where the never-been-cleaned motor in the car is now bright and clean. The pH of the diluted detergent is a very acceptable 6.8, so it shouldn't cause serious risk to electrical connections with a good rinsing. Lots more cleaning to do, but so far a thumbs-up to the citrus on the aluminum engine stuff.
Bob

Can you clarify what you used? In the lower thread you said the ZEP was good on the engine, but above you mentioned ZEP Orange as not being very good.

I was looking at buying some 5 gallon tub from Home Depot and ZEP I recognize but I know they sell a couple other things.

I have a short block on an engine stand that needs to look like Dennis's engine when its done. Would you now recommend the ZEP Citrus degreaser from HD? If im going to buy one 5 gallon jug of something what should i get thats ? And the ZEP is recommended for the cosmolene too ? It just needs to sit there for a bit to dissolve the stuff?

and application with horse hair paint brush? I noticed plastic bristle brushes go soft, i guess it dissolves the plastic, i assume horse hair isnt prone to this as its actual hair.
Old 02-26-2010, 12:47 PM
  #44  
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what do you guys recommend for an outdoor (but lid covered) parts washer? I would be trying to clean valve covers and rear timing belt plates and other assorted bits from the engine, alternator, smog pump, brackets, etc
Old 02-26-2010, 12:59 PM
  #45  
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If you've got the room to store it I would just hit up HF and get one of their 20 gallon washers, and then HD and pick up 3-4 gallons of odorless mineral spirits.

I have the smaller 6 gallon one (which you're welcome to borrow if you like) and it's fine for anything smaller that 8 or 9" in greatest dimension. It would be a PITA for valve covers and the intake pieces. I ASSume the 20 gallon would be big enough for washing heads and VC's and the like.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94702


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