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Preparing my 928 for reliability

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Old 02-05-2010, 09:57 PM
  #16  
Shark Attack
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If I may add to SharkSkin
  • All critical rubber under the hood should be checked/replaced if needed.
  • Clean all major power points; battery terminals, Alternator/Starter connections, Jump post connection(replace cover if missing), B+ studs on top of CE panel.
  • Clean all ground points(see FAQ).
  • Have the battery load tested.
  • Check all belts, or just replace them all and put the old ones in the tire well as spares.
  • Fuel filter if you don't know when it was last done
  • Make sure cowl drain is clear
  • Pour lots of water down the cowl in front of the pass. side wiper, checking for drips above the CE panel. If you see any drips, re-seal the blower box.
  • If you have a sunroof, get a length of small-diameter weed-wacker line and gently clear the drains at each corner of the sunroof.

    May I add if we are going for relaible:
  • tb and water pump
  • if the air hose is off the altinator.. Just do a new Alt and hose. Its so filled with crap its going to die.
  • Replace the fuel pump relay
  • under plenum refresh
  • Chacole canister Y tube
  • Check Tie rods replace as needed
  • check upper and lower ball joint boots replace as needed
  • half shaft boots, replace as needed
  • Motor mounts replace as needed

Old 02-05-2010, 10:20 PM
  #17  
dr bob
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Grab a copy of Wally's annual electrical maintenance guide from the 928 Specialists website (www.928GT.com) and folllow that list. Lots of sniggly problems can be avoided just by keeping connections clean and tight. get a copy of the Fuse and Relay chart for your car from there too, print it and put the printout in the car.

Keep a couple spare relays in the car if you must, but more important is a tool that will let you pull them easily if you need to do any diagnosing by swapping them. The relays are not expensive from the Big Three if you want to keep them, but you won't get stranded if you remember that you can drive with the horn relay plugged in for the fuel pump or LH.

There's a fuel pump relay jumper that you may want to make out of a few simple spade terminals (male) and some wire. Handy to have for many, although I have to confess that mine is gathering cobwebs in the little tool bag I have in the car. I have a cheap multimeter in there (Harbor Freight <$5 special on sale), a 'universal' socket and screwdriver kit that was on a Home Depot tble at Fathers Day a decade ago, and a set of mini booster cables to use to charge the battery from another car in case of problems. All unused stuff. Flashlight, fuse kit, AAA card and AMEX if you get really stranded.

There's no good way to predict LHA failure, but it is inevitable if the unit hasn't been repaired yet. The builders usually put their own stickers on the case if you don't know already about a replacement. IMHO, it's easier to do this in the calm and comfort of my own garage on my own schedule, vs on the side of the road somewhere just east of nowhere. I had a spare core donated by a lister from way back, and Rich Andrade fixed it for me before mine failed. It went into several cars temporarily before mine actually needed it, but when it needed it there was no doubt it needed it. JDS has them, Mark Anderson at 928 Int'l too, and the service from any of them will be fine. There are stories of folks who had them shipped to hotels where they were stranded, good deal if it doesn't fail on a weekend.

As others recommend, do the flex plate relaxation exercise too. By the time you see driving symptoms of TBF it's way too late. Takes an hour, saves an engine. Should be on the annual maint list at least.


Otherwise, if all your fluids are up to date and your workmanship is OK on those projects like the TB job, go drive it and enjoy it.



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