Imo000

I'm sorry but you are over complicating things. To remove the TT you don't have to drop the rear suspension at all. I just did it last weekend. All you need to do is remove the 2 trans mount bolts, disconnect the emergency calbles, place a large flat piece of wood under the trans pan and lift it with a regualr hydraulic jack. Then with you feel push the transmission back ~1". AND that's it, the TT will come out. The front bellhousing upper bolts can be removed from the top, but the fuel cooler lines have to be dissconnected. Then when the TT is half way down, spin the bellhousing around to get more clearance from the flywheel. The entire rear suspension and transmission lines can stay connected too, there is enough slack to move the transmission back untill it bottoms out on the floor. At this point the clerance is enough to take the TT out.

Landseer

Well, than that's a WHOLE lot easier.


Mine was in association with trans change.

James Bailey

Imre that is true for a 5 speed but the auto shaft protrudes about 10 inches and is captive by part of the bell housing...(however some opt to cut off the lower connecting piece) Rationalize that it was NOT NEEDED

Imo000

No no it wasn't a 5-speed, this is an auto trans TT that I just pulled and didn't cut a single thing. I've read all the different write ups, including the suggestion of cutting the bell housing bottom and tabs off, but cutting wasn't an option for me. Someone wrote (I think it was Tony) that the auto TT can be removed without any cutting or suspension drop. It was a tight fit untill the bellhousing is turned uside down but after that it was fairly easy. Here's the pic to prove it!

James Bailey

Ah so you are unbolting the bell housing too ?

928Novice

I realy do not need to take the drive shaft out do I? I only want to put on a super clamp.

Imo000

I can't see any other way if you wnat to use a super calmp. But for a Pklamp the TT stays put.

Jfrahm

The Pklamp does not require TT removal, the Superclamp does. Are there other problems with the torque tube? T/C carrier bearings?

-Joel.

Imo000

Yup. The driver side upper bolt comes out fairly eaisly with a flex head gear wrench and an extension (another wrench). The passanger side is another story. After removing both fuel cooler lines, had to ue a swivle head ratchet (spark plug/tune up ratchet) with a 1ft extension hammered to the handle. Once the bolt crack, it spun out easily but because of the lack of space to get my hand in there, had to use a ratchet that has a spinning grip that drives the ratchet head. This way everything stayed in place and only had to spin the handle of the ratchet (got if to Christmas year ago and never used it till now). I'll post pics later of the tool combination that's needed to get to these two bolts off.

morganabowen

Phewww, interesting and educating read. All things considered, a happy ending