Lizard928

The torn wire is for the tensioner arm.

Consider going to the Porkensioner while you are doing this.

Your cams gears have almost nothing through the coating, they will be ok to either recoat or reuse as is, then replace next time. The Oil pump gear looks brand new, do not touch it.

I do all my timing belt jobs at TDC (even 32V). You will need a 30mm wrench to turn the cams for lining the belt up. But there is lots of room to be able to do it this way and it makes things MUCH simpler.

Also from the amount of oil in there, consider replacing the crank main seal. This adds nearly no time and is easy.

Lizard928

Jim,
the cams will instantly move once you remove the belt at TDC. However there is more than enough clearance for the valves at TDC. The cams can turn almost half a rotation with the engine at TDC from their proper location before anything will touch.
I have verified this on many 928s, GTS, GT, S4 and S3 engines.

928autobahndreamer

Here is the wire I was talking about. Looking at other pictures from TB jobs, I am not seeing any similar wires. The tensioner wire that connects to the lower TB cover is intact.

Also, I plan to install a PKensioner, eliminate the air pump (ultimately install an X-pipe), and use the 32Vr to set timing.

Lizard928

As stated, that wire is for the tensioner, which is why your light would have been on.

Dont worry that is all gone with the porkensioner.

928autobahndreamer

Any recommendations on how to have the cam gears recoated? Can I just bring them anywhere that does hard anodizing? I want to make sure the right process is used, so I don't have an abrasive surface that eats belts.

Also, I want to be sure about what I am looking at with the oil gear. There is no shiny metal showing on the gear surface, but it is a bronzish color, different than the silver coating on the front. This is the original aluminum gear(magnet does not attract), so if it were worn through, I would expect to see more of a reflective metal, not the bronzish color I am seeing? So, I am guessing the coating is still intact and the oil gear is a keeper?

Also, as long as I am replacing the main crank seal, I figure I should replace the oil pump seals as well.

Am I thinking correctly?

928autobahndreamer

The thing is, I'm not sure that is what it is. The light only came on when I did a quick acceleration on a cold morning. I parked the car and did a visual inspection and things looked ok. I figured it may have been temperature related.

On start up the warning did not relight.

If the tensioner wire was toast, it would always light. Wouldn't it?

Lizard928

You have an extremely small amount of wear through the cam gears. Someone posted up a company that will recoat them for you. Also iirc Big Dave recoated his own.

The brozish colour on the oil pump gear and cam gears is the origonal coating. And on the oil pump gear it is 100% intact. So I would leave it be.

If you want to replace the oil pump seals as well you can. But I see no oil weeping through them.
I personally would only replace the outter wiper seal if you are going to replace anything on the oil pump. But I would not bother as it sees very little oil and no real pressure unlike the crank main seal.

Lizard928

On the wire not necessarily. It could have rested in place for the most part completing the grounding circuit. And the extra gravity could cause it to move breaking the circuit.

928autobahndreamer

Lizard931.
Thanks for the info. This has been very helpful.

docmirror

I wouldn't try to recoat the cam gears just replace them. The seals are pretty much a WYAIT deal, I would replace anything you have a concern about. Also replace the oil pump gear now as well.

This is an area where you don't want to skimp. The cam gears aren't that costly.

928autobahndreamer

OK. I am the worlds slowest wrench.

But, light at the end of the tunnel. Everything I set out to do is almost done.

To recap. I have
replaced the timing belt
replaced the water pump,
replaced cam gears,
removed the tensioner and replaced with a Porkensioner,
set timing with the 32Vr (man, Ken is a genious),
rehabed the 14 pin connector,
replaced ignition wires,
replaced ignition caps and rotors,
installed Ken's flex plate clamp,
replaced brake rotors, pads and lines, bled the brakes,
removed the air pump,
raised my ride height from 135mm to 155mm (I was bottoming out constantly and had to drive around road kill squirrels)

All that is left is reinstalling the fan shroud, changing the oil, refilling the coolant, put on the timing belt covers, double check everything, and then fire her up.

I am really ready to drive her again. I can't wait.

My cam timing was retarded 3 deg on bank 5-8 and 2 deg on bank 1-4. I am advancing to 3+ since it is an auto to liven it up (based on Ken's recommendation).

I also found I had a little exhaust leak from the diagnostic access tubes. They had broken off at the headers on both sides and were leaking. I plugged them with a screw and some JB weld. That may get a little torque back as well.

Some pics.

928autobahndreamer

Some more pics of the progress.

On the suspension pics, you can see how low the suspension was set by the lower mark. I think it should handle a little better now.

Also, you can see where the timing was set with the 32 Vr. 3 deg retarded on the drivers bank and 2 deg retarded on the pass bank. No wonder this thing really was happier at redline. I moved the peak down a few hundred RPMs and see if we can get a little more low end torque.

PorKen

Nice job!

It was probably more with the old belt on there. The old readings were likely 1-4:-4 | 5-8:-4, cold, and 1-4:-2 | 5-8:-4 hot.


A new belt will stretch to create around 2° retard on the 1-4 side (<1 on the 5-8), about the same as a cold to hot engine. You should verify your settings after 1000 miles or so. With a 1K+ mile belt, add ~2° retard to the 1-4 side when cold, or set both sides the same when the engine is hot. With a new belt, set both sides the same, cold.

928autobahndreamer

Thanks for your input Ken. As you can see, I have loved your developments for the 928. Do me a favor and hold off on releasing anything I can't live without until I have a chance to replenish the funds.

I had read all of the 32Vr threads while doing the adjustments. I figured that it Was probably retarded even further. I will be curious as to how it changes the feel of the car with the extra low end grunt.

Up next the car is scheduled for an Xpipe, motor mounts, and CV boots.

Then new shocks and springs and better wheels.

Then new carpet and maybe some of Paul's leather work dash, pod, pasha sport seats.

Then supercharger, sharktuner ect.

Ok, I need to win the lotto. My wish list keeps getting longer instead of shorter.

Stromius

Great work Jim! Nice to see the play by play pics!

May have been me. I had my barely worn cams recoated at Finish Line Coatings in Oregon. They came out great and sold them here on RL. Contact/Email Lona (Louie Ott's sister!)
http://finishlinecoatings.com/

EDIT added pic of the recoated cam for anyone who needs to see finished product.