deptotpr

My gears are not smooth when initially moving. I am having difficulty locating Reverse - or - 1st. Once I am moving, 2nd through 5th is good. What could I do to improve this? From new owner in Florida......

76FJ55

If your clutch isn't fully disengaging it will cause these symtoms. You may need to check the clutch adjustment and or bleed the system. others may have additional suggestion as well.

WallyP

My apologies that this will sound a bit harsh, but...

First - when asking for help, ALWAYS give the info on your car. Lots of differences between a '79 and a '94.

Second - when asking for help, ALWAYS be verbose. It is virtually impossible to give too much info or to be too specific.

For example, in your post, it isn't clear whether the problem is that the gears grind, or that you have trouble finding the correct lever position. Very different problems, with very different suggestions.

James Bailey

It is unclear what you are trying to describe.....but there are plastic bushings in the shifter linkage which can start falling apart making it hard to locate a gear . If you are having trouble with it grinding as you attempt to put it in gear then that could be a dragging clutch not disengaging.

WallyP

The '78 models are a little different from the later cars, so keep that in mind as you read suggestions.

Grinding of the gears is often due to dragging in the dual-plate clutch.
The first thing to try is to bleed the clutch system again to make sure that there is no air in the fluid. It is very difficult to remove all of the air.

Raise the car so that you can safely work under it.
Undo the two bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder to the clutch housing. Do not take the fluid line off.
Push the rod that operates the clutch all the way to the bottom of the slave cylinder.
Reattach the slave cylinder to the clutch housing.
Bleed the slave cylinder to remove the air by opening the bleed nipple, having some one push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there, closing the bleed nipple, and having the other person then release the pedal. Repeat this three or four times.

If this does not solve the problem, then you may need to readjust the clutch center disk.

To adjust the center disk:
Raise the car so you can safely work on it.
Remove the bottom cover.
Use a pry bar to push the operating lever so that the clutch is fully released. It may be easier to have someone push the clutch pedal down and then use the pry bar to hold the clutch in the released position.
Look carefully at the center metal plate. It should be exactly centered between the surface of the flywheel and the surface of the rear pressure plate. If it is not, use a large screwdriver to turn the adjusting forks so that the plate is centered. You will need to turn the clutch and engine to get to all three of the adjusting forks.

There is a plastic cup on the upper end of the clutch release arm that operates the throwout bearing. This cup sometimes wears or falls out. The early '78s may use a different-sized ball and cup. Replacing it can be a pain, but here is what David had to say several years ago.


Here is what Dave Roberts wrote about it the replacement:

Here is a shortcut you can try, it will be easier than removing the clutch
and arm, if you can do it. Even though Wally still doesn't believe it can be done (gotta show him one day :-) I will tell you anyway !
(A) Install our 3-piece 928 Service Covers to protect your fenders (Yes, shameless plug, but they are COOL! )
(B) Remove Airbox assembly (upper and lower)
(C) Look at the top of the "bell housing" or "clutch housing" where it mounts to the top of the block. You will see a rectangular opening. Within this opening just off center towards the drivers side you will see the top of the clutch release arm and part of the stud it snaps on to.
(D) Take a suitable prying device and pry the top of the lever towards the
rear and then towards the passenger side of your 928. This can sometimes be easy, sometimes it take more pressure than you feel comfortable with, but it will come off. The main thing to be aware of is to not pry on the ball stud, if you snap it then you will have to remove the clutch AND clutch housing to
repair. Hasn't happened to me .... yet (crossing fingers), but I have heard
of it happening. (The '78 ball stud may be thinner, thus might break more easily!)
(E) Once you have the clutch release arm off and to the side you can proceed
to dig out the remains of the old bushing from the hole in the top of the arm.
(F) Insert new bushing, lube accordingly and then work it back over the ball
stud and snap into place (sometimes just that easy, sometimes a little stubborn)
IMHO this is much easier and a LOT quicker than removing the clutch assembly
to replace the bushing. It is trickier, but once you understand the procedure it gets easier, and you can do it without even jacking up and getting under your 928!
Good luck and let me know how it goes,
David Roberts
928 SPECIALISTS

Make sure that the transaxle is full - the fill plug is on the back of the differential housing, with one of the two drain plugs under it. Always make sure that you can get the drain plug out before you drain the transaxle.

There are several wear points on the shift linkage that will cause the shift lever movement to be sloppy. These include:
- Two plastic bushings on the rear coupler, located above the torque tube at the transmission. These wear, and sometimes fall out. You can replace just the plastic bushings for less then the cost of the coupler. Check the bolt that secures the rear coupler to the shafts on both ends.
- A plastic ball on the front shift rod, all the way at the front of the torque tube. The cup on the later cars can be replaced at less cost than replacing the coupler. The cup and ball may be different on the early '78s.
- A plastic ring buried in the foam just forward of the shift lever. The '78s may use a different bearing here. This ring often breaks. Here is an earlier write-up on this problem.
There is one more critical part of the 5-speed shift linkage that rarely gets mentioned. Just at the front of the box housing the shift lever, bolted to the top of the torque tube, is the support bearing for the shift linkage. This bearing is a metal housing surrounding a rubber support, which surrounds a plastic ring that supports the front linkage rod. Sometimes the plastic ring will break, allowing the linkage to move around too much.

Using no more than moderate force, try moving the shift lever up and down. There should be a rubbery feel, with slight movement. If the lever moves freely for 1/4", then feel rubbery, your support bearing may be gone.

If you suspect that the bearing is gone, you can remove the cover plates, peel back the heavy foam rubber and just barely see the bearing around the shaft. If the plastic ring is gone, you have a problem.

The support bearing is expensive ($130 - 150), but that isn't the problem. The problem is that the bearing is pretty well impossible to replace without dropping the torque tube. BUT - there may be a way out!

The shift linkage tube doesn't really move very much in the bearing. It should rotate a few degrees, and move back and forth a tiny bit. Measure the linkage tube O/D, and find a thin plastic tube that is an approximate fit over the linkage tube. Cut a ring from this tube, and split it at an angle. The ring should be as wide as you can get on the shift rod. Put the split ring over the shift rod, and work it into the hole in the rubber support ring. Glue the plastic ring to the rubber support, and lubricate the shift rod. Check for lever movement - it should be tighter.

Note: If you plan to replace the shifter cup, do the cup replacement before you patch the support bearing. The extra movement will help with the cup replacement. You can also check for wear or damage on the plastic bushings at the base of the shift lever WYAIT (While You Are In There).

Hope that this helps!

Mrmerlin

Nice job Wally, your definitely a member of the way beyond club.
Thanks for your contributions