IcemanG17

very cool stuff...keep it up!!

toofast928

Coolant sensor, located rearward left head.

toofast928

Teaser pic of Fuel Rails. Notice black anodized, outside and in.

toofast928

MSD Off-Road Box. Mounted outside engine compartment. Stays cool and EMI is shelded in the outer fender. (more to come on ignition)

McLovin

What is that JIC fitting in the top of the block going to be used for?

toofast928

Throttle bypass for the IAC Motor.

toofast928

UPDATE:
Engine started two weeks ago. Right now I have the Haltech controlling just fuel, ignition is still strictly Porsche. Tested all the sensors and actuators. Idle quality is very smooth. I just need an hour or two to tune the "no-load". Took me a-while to play with the software and understand the Australian terms.
Few things at this point:

• I thought the E6X had knock control, it doesn't. My knock detection is now for driver alert only.
• All the connections for the sensors/actuators were made by crimping the wire to the connector pin. I had to solder wires, but on a whole soldering was kept to a minimum. The engine harness is wrapped in thermo loop and supported. The ECM has several grounds points where I uses star washers for a bite on the spade.
• The Haltech o2 sensor is located in the right down-pipe. Haltech uses this 4 wire sensor to control closed loop. The left down-pipe has the wide-band o2. This sensor is connected to really cool gauge and the signal is data logged by Hatech. So I can monitor left and right bank A/F ratio, which is exactly the same. It is not desirable to locate the o2 in the middle of the "X". That location will average eight oxygen content. Its easier for a cylinder to be running too lean (or rich) and be be masked by the blend. If the engine is tight, all injectors spray correctly, then we assume all cylinders have the same exhaust output.
• 36# injectors is the biggest injector for the 16V. At idle speed I'm able to control the injector but at 1.8 ms. Don't think I could control 42# for idle quality.

Lizard928

I just browsed over this thread more.

Your coolant sensor location is not optimal IMO as the coolant has yet to cycle through the cylinder heads.

With your comment of being able to pick up a lean cylinder, not going to happen unless you have 8 individual WB O2 sensors like Todd did.

But good to hear that it is running well now.

chewy8000

That's a real bummer it doesn't manage knock automaticly. I thought your whole point of going to haltech was so you could manage knock by the ecu having the abilily to automatically retard timing based on what it's reading to get the car to run optimal.

toofast928

But thats not what I wrote or implied-

Very good Colin, the ECT is not in the Thermostat Housing> I didn't want the trouble of removing the housing. The software allows me to change the warm up time according to the head temp. Had the cold start mapping completed on the second start. -not an issue

Yep it would be nice to have the ECM retard time under a knock condition, but then again this is the fourth year of boost and no knock detection yet. The engine will be tuned below the threshold of knock, not on the edge. (The system will alert the driver to knock)

toofast928

IGNITION:
During my testing of the L-Jet ignition I found that the timing could vary 1-3 degrees at high RPM. Probably because of the T-Belt contraction and expansion. In fact when Haltech was reading the flywheel RPM, the distributor RPM read 30 RPM higher. So its time to have the computer control the spark timing- ADVANCE/RETARD as I input into my map. Having the Haltech control ignition will increase accuracy by eliminating the T-Belt and flyweights inaccuracy.

First I measured distributor shaft end play and rotor to post alignment:

toofast928

Next removed the flyweights and welded the primary shaft to the secondary shaft. The pick-up coil was left intact to operate the dash tach. Shaft end play was adjusted to .025". Below is a pic of how the shims are stacked.

toofast928

With the stock L-Jet blue ignition coil (8 volt) I was experiencing spark blow-out at high RPMs. When I scoped the secondary ignition spark out put maxed at 12,000 volts. Now Haltech will control MSD Control Box and a Blaster Coil. Spark plug gap was widen to .034"-- for now. Ignition wires were changed to Magnecor.
50,000 volts should be enough...

Iwanna928

That is so cool. That car is going to be a beast when you get her dialed in!

I am jealous.

Stephen

Ducman82

this is one nice project my friend! keep up the good work!