Power steering adjustment bolts
12-16-2009, 03:56 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Power steering adjustment bolts
When I removed my PS pump, one of the bolts that goes through the cassette bracket into the pump broke off. I was able to get the other two out OK. Will I be OK with just the two or should I try to get it out with an extractor/drill and re-thread it. The broken one is circled in red.
12-16-2009, 04:05 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
I'd try and get it out Ted and replace the bolt.
Although somewhat extreme analogy I've never understood the airline captain coming on the PA to announce an engine failure but that it was ok the plane can still fly on the remaining engine. If its ok then why bother with the 2nd engine in the first place.
Although somewhat extreme analogy I've never understood the airline captain coming on the PA to announce an engine failure but that it was ok the plane can still fly on the remaining engine. If its ok then why bother with the 2nd engine in the first place.
12-16-2009, 04:46 PM
#3
Team Owner
hopefully the bolt that was used was the correct length try using a reverse drill bit on the bolt , you might have to remove the radiator for better clearance
12-16-2009, 04:58 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The pump is out sitting on my bench right now so space isn't an issue. The bolt threads straight through the pump to the other side. It is that good old aluminum - steel corrosion thing, and a PO that was in there before as it took almost no force at all to snap it. Reason I asked about leaving it out was I read a thread here somewhere and someone mentioned leaving it out to allow greater PS belt adjustment.
I hear ya on that one, but it would not be the first time Porsche over-engineered something! 
It is going to me a PITA to get it out, but might as well give it a shot seeing as it is out on the bench right now.
I'd try and get it out Ted and replace the bolt.
Although somewhat extreme analogy I've never understood the airline captain coming on the PA to announce an engine failure but that it was ok the plane can still fly on the remaining engine. If its ok then why bother with the 2nd engine in the first place.
Although somewhat extreme analogy I've never understood the airline captain coming on the PA to announce an engine failure but that it was ok the plane can still fly on the remaining engine. If its ok then why bother with the 2nd engine in the first place.
It is going to me a PITA to get it out, but might as well give it a shot seeing as it is out on the bench right now.
12-16-2009, 06:07 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
if you have access to a welder you can lay a nut over the remaining bolt and weld the two together through the hole in the center of the nut, then use a wrench to remove it. the heat from welding will help break the bond detween the Al and steel as well.
12-16-2009, 07:07 PM
#6
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
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It might work with two bolts. When I resealed my ps pump I found the lower rigth bolt missing. Had been driving like that for at least two years. But, perfectionist that were are, we always try to make it work as it was designed 
12-16-2009, 08:26 PM
#7
Team Owner
FJ55 has the right idea go see a welder
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12-16-2009, 10:31 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Problem is the bolt is broken just below flush of the hole and there isn't any bolt hanging out the back to weld it to either. Would drilling it and trying an extractor + heat on the housing be worth a try or would I be wasting my time?
12-17-2009, 01:01 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Use a Dremel to grind a flat spot on the bolt to allow for an accurate center punch. Drill a small pilot hole in the center, don’t break the bit in the bolt and create a bigger problem. Once you have the pilot hole use an Easy Out.
If that fails, re-drill the bolt, with the correct drill for a tap or just smaller. This leaves the threads of the bolt in the hole but with no strength to hold them together. With a pick or small cold chisel and a pair of needle nose pliers, work the threads out. If this works it’s a good idea to clean the threads with a bottom tap before replacing the bolt.
Finally if all else fails use a larger bit to drill out the rest of the threads and install a Time Cert. Use Red Loctite on the Time Cert, not on the threads of the bolt, so it won’t turn next time you remove it.
Be careful when drilling not to go to deep. Measure the depth of the other holes and use a piece of tape on the drill to mark the depth.
If all else fails get epoxy that can take the recommended torque and fill the hole completely, then re-drill and tap in a new thread, this is the worst solution. Clean the surface real good before using the epoxy.
If you break a tap in the hole, you may be surprised at what the Dremel tool can accomplish using a diamond bit. If the diamond bit is small enough, you may be able to cut away the web (center section or body of the tap) without getting too close to the existing thread in the hole. A diamond cutting tool will be harder than the tap material.
Good luck, just work slowly.
If that fails, re-drill the bolt, with the correct drill for a tap or just smaller. This leaves the threads of the bolt in the hole but with no strength to hold them together. With a pick or small cold chisel and a pair of needle nose pliers, work the threads out. If this works it’s a good idea to clean the threads with a bottom tap before replacing the bolt.
Finally if all else fails use a larger bit to drill out the rest of the threads and install a Time Cert. Use Red Loctite on the Time Cert, not on the threads of the bolt, so it won’t turn next time you remove it.
Be careful when drilling not to go to deep. Measure the depth of the other holes and use a piece of tape on the drill to mark the depth.
If all else fails get epoxy that can take the recommended torque and fill the hole completely, then re-drill and tap in a new thread, this is the worst solution. Clean the surface real good before using the epoxy.
If you break a tap in the hole, you may be surprised at what the Dremel tool can accomplish using a diamond bit. If the diamond bit is small enough, you may be able to cut away the web (center section or body of the tap) without getting too close to the existing thread in the hole. A diamond cutting tool will be harder than the tap material.
Good luck, just work slowly.
12-17-2009, 01:11 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
You guys are insane!
Whenever I deal with that tensioner I think about the Porsche engineers who put in three bolts where one would work. The tensioning bolt has a locknut on it, too.
Just tighten the other two, to spec, and be happy. Look for another tensioner on EvilBay. Should be a $10 part.
Enjoy your car!
Whenever I deal with that tensioner I think about the Porsche engineers who put in three bolts where one would work. The tensioning bolt has a locknut on it, too.
Just tighten the other two, to spec, and be happy. Look for another tensioner on EvilBay. Should be a $10 part.
Enjoy your car!
12-17-2009, 02:17 PM
#11
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Ted,
I have access to acetylene if you want to heat the bolt area up but propane might do it too. Then maybe try an easy out. I hate those things as many times cause more problems than solve. Or a reverse drill. As long as the bolt is not cross threaded, it should come out eventually. If it is, there will be no other way than to fully drill it out.
I have access to acetylene if you want to heat the bolt area up but propane might do it too. Then maybe try an easy out. I hate those things as many times cause more problems than solve. Or a reverse drill. As long as the bolt is not cross threaded, it should come out eventually. If it is, there will be no other way than to fully drill it out.
