Tony H.

One more stupid question i went to see if the marks line up witht the V in th top j hole on the covers well the drivers side has a V in th hole to see the PS does not havr the same typeof hole with a V to look at? Are my covers wrong? The covers do not look to be the same thickness I can see a little bit of the front of the cam gear on the drivers side but I can not see any of the cam gear on the PS side I only see the belt?

I really think some one has messed with this car before bought it and I may noy have the parts on it I need to check things properly, it seems like evertime something is wrong I find out my car is different than what is being described to me.

But I am trying to get it right?

And keep the hints and helpful stuff coming it is helping me alot as I learn.

Thanks I am gong to have to take the covers off to see if they line up I guess, which means loosing antifreeze again from taking off hoses, also PS pump resevoir and I can't tremember what all else to get the covers off. But I will do it just to make sure the gears are still lined up, I would hope the tension is good since I used the Pk Tensioner so I would not have to worry about tension I only have about 200 miles on the new belt and tensioner they should be OK I would hope.

But Murphy may be at play here with me.

Thanks Tony H.

Tony H.

I tried to edit the avatar. I hope it worked!!

Tony H.

Tried to do edit on signiture hope this worked!!!

Lizard928

Tony,
I had this same problem happen yesterday on my 87 5 speed.
But luckily I knew exactly what was happening.
The problem is that 4 of the cylinders are cutting out.
First thing is to check both ends of your coil wires for corrosion and being properly seated.
In my case it was the drivers side one the coil end had corroded away almost entirely. I also had to swap out the coil because it was so corroded it was inhibiting the spark with a new end on the lead.

Hope this helps you.

pcar928fan

I had a T-belt done on my '92. Ran like crap when I got it back. I asked, "is the timing correct?" "Oh yea we marked everything..." Sure you did... they did everything BUT check the timing and then FINALLY as a last resort checked the timing and guess what...it had been the problem all along! It was coughing and popping and backfiring as you describe your car doing...

Lizard928

James I agree, but it wouldnt smooth out at partial loads if the timing was out.

Mrmerlin

if your careful you dont have to remove the coolant lines, but it does make things easier if you do, and just undo the clamp on the PS reservoir it can slide out of the way
BTW you should have a 4 speed trans in your user info

pcar928fan

Colin,

Actually it does enough to fool you. If you are not REALLY paying attention as the tach passes into high R's you won't notice that it is still not running right. I had to really pay attention at hwy speeds in the '92 to be sure it was still misbehaving.

Tony H.

I am think my timing may be off, if so what would I do to fix it, it is not like other cars where you turn a distributor to adjust it? I a can not even see the timing mark on the pump housing without taking off the center cover which is removing the alt and all stuuf just like doing the whole belt over.

I did mark everything when I took it apart and it all looked to be in the proper place when it was put back together but I am not a machanic and I guess it could be off one tooth maybe, but I would have no idea which way it would be off right or left tooth?

I drove the car hame and back to work today, on the way home in grar ran terrible but in park much smoother, on the way to work at first ran perfect in park and in gear then when the car reached normal temp it ran rough in gear and smoother in park like on the way home yesterday.

Something seems very strange here!!

I am going to clean all hot spots and the pin to see if any of that will help, then I guess on to the the belt alignment much to my shgrin.

Tony H.

OK I have taken the caps and rotors apart where I can see timing marks, I set the crank to O/T and looked to see if the marks on the cam gear were lined up well the first turn they were 180 degrees off but then I continued around one more revolution and the marks lined up perfect to the rear cam gear marks whe main crank was on O/T and the rotors were facing towards the outside of the car is that coprrect or should the rotors be facing the inside of the car when the main crank is on O/T on the main crank, or does it matter? My 45 degree mark on the cam gear is lined up when it comes around both are the same.

Ihope I am making som kind of since to someone, I have cleand all connection before any of the above and did not change anythng so I wen ahead to try and check timing.
If someone know which direction the rotors should point when it is on TDC that may help me. I may be completly 180 degrees out of time, I don't know if the car would run that way or not but let me know because it is not running good now. When I look at the marks I made at 45 degrees BTDC when I took it apart the marks are just before the rear cam gear marks so I think I marked it properly. I don't think I could mark it it and have it close to the rear gear marks if I were 180 out!!

Mrmerlin

the rotors should both be facing about 3 O clock (the point that sends the spark) ( toward the driverside fender) if the engine is at TDC and your looking at the engine from in front of the bumper.
BUT the cam timing marks are actually on the rear side of the cam pulleys.
There is not any timing mark for the oil pump .
All you need to do is make sure the timing marks are correct for the cams and the crank

Lizard928

You need to pull the upper cam covers off, and look at the marks on the inside.

And James, I know what you are talking about. But from his description I dont think it is timing.

Tony, Please inspect your plug leads. It is quick and easy to do!

Tony H.

I don't think it is timing as well since all seems to line up as described.

When you say check your plug lead what do mean the part on the plug or something on the wire itself?

I did look at my wires to the coils when I pulled them off the caps and they look tarnished and a slight greenish color and Roger at 928RUS said that was not good so I am trying to clean them but I think I may need to bite the bullet and buy new wires for the whole car? Mine are Beru type wires which someone mentioned as the best but I think they may be the original set so if so they may be shot.

I realy do not know what could be wrong all timing marks look perfect so I do not think the timing is an issue, I have clean all contacts I can think of, I left the battery hooked up to turn the engine to TDC and the coils were firing as it turned so I think it can possibly be only bad wires. But they went bad all at once which seems strange.

I am going to clean the coil wires off and use some electric grease on them put the car back together and hope that it runs good if not then I will try all new wires as a last resort, but let me know wht was meant by check your plug leads and I will do that also.

Thanks I will update when I have it done while I work as well at my job, good thing I am my own boss or I would not have a job or I would not have a 928.

Thanks so much.

Tony H.

Tampa 928s

This is a stupid ? but did you check to make sure your plug wires are correct and not mixed up? Pass bank 1-5 front to back Drivers bank 5-8 from front to back, look on the timing covers the cylinder numbers are marked.

Tony H.

I don't know exactlyy what was the stupid question i asked but to answer the other one yes the wires are in the correct place in the caps as label on the timing covers.

Maybe you meant the question about the plug leads, I was asking if it the nipple on the pug itself which threads on or the plug wire being called a plug lead.

Sorry, if it was to basic or a stupid question but I still don't know which was being talked about.

Call me stupid but if I am not sure I will ask if you know you could tell me.

UPDATE: After looking closely at the coil wire ends I see were the electrode (if that is what it is called) the white part surrounding the center of the wire lead is cracked and on has a missing chip in it so I may have found the issue but I will not know for sure until I put on new ones to see and rebuild the front of the car again.

Thanks