ignition switch troubles
#1
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All, I experienced some serious troubles with my ignition switch today. [thankfully, i didn't take the car to 3rd Coast]. I have a few questions regarding which applicable parts to buy. The symptoms are as follows:
- Switch lock assembly popped out when I tried to pull the key out
- Tried to push it back into place, and it doesn't go
- Looked further into it and the plastic tumbler mechanism and center pin were out of place
- jerry-rigged the switch enough to get the car started... had to hold it to one side in order to disengage the steering lock
Is this part of the ignition electrical switch?
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...613%20012%2000
...or the locking tumbler mechanism?
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...347%20915%2001
...or the control cam mechanisms?
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...347%20919%2000
Any pointers to where in the manual this is found? I can't seem to find it.
- Switch lock assembly popped out when I tried to pull the key out
- Tried to push it back into place, and it doesn't go
- Looked further into it and the plastic tumbler mechanism and center pin were out of place
- jerry-rigged the switch enough to get the car started... had to hold it to one side in order to disengage the steering lock
Is this part of the ignition electrical switch?
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...613%20012%2000
...or the locking tumbler mechanism?
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...347%20915%2001
...or the control cam mechanisms?
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...347%20919%2000
Any pointers to where in the manual this is found? I can't seem to find it.
#2
Drifting
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I've never seen the "lock" come apart. I have replaced the switch...twice.
The first part is the switch that is known to go bad. It "plugs" into the lok on the back side.
The first part is the switch that is known to go bad. It "plugs" into the lok on the back side.
#3
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from your post it sounds like the lock cylinder pin has come out thus letting the cylinder slide out.
Warning: dont remove the key from the cylinder or you might lose some of the tumblers and springs.
If you can get all of the parts realigned to fit the cylinder back in then you can fit another pin. This might have to be hand crafted out of drill bit, loctite the new pin into, place use green loctite.
The pod will have to be removed to make this repair, disconnect the battery first.
You should see the small hole on the outer side of the ignition cylinder barrel you might even look in the pod or the carpet for the old pin.
As an alternative to using a drill try finding a small screw and then with a dremel make the tip of it round after you have test fitted it into the housing then you trim the tip down so it wont drag in groove of the lock cylinder once the screw is in and loctited cut off the other side of it with the dremel
Warning: dont remove the key from the cylinder or you might lose some of the tumblers and springs.
If you can get all of the parts realigned to fit the cylinder back in then you can fit another pin. This might have to be hand crafted out of drill bit, loctite the new pin into, place use green loctite.
The pod will have to be removed to make this repair, disconnect the battery first.
You should see the small hole on the outer side of the ignition cylinder barrel you might even look in the pod or the carpet for the old pin.
As an alternative to using a drill try finding a small screw and then with a dremel make the tip of it round after you have test fitted it into the housing then you trim the tip down so it wont drag in groove of the lock cylinder once the screw is in and loctited cut off the other side of it with the dremel
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 11-08-2009 at 12:20 AM.
#4
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What Stan said ^ ...AND when you install the replacement pin don't overdrive it too far in or it will cause interfrence with the cylinder rotation.
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#5
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What David said
#6
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FWIW, when I recently replaced my ignition electrical switch, I bought the control cam mechanism part bundle, but I did not need to use it. I only replaced the electrical switch.
If you are going in to replace or fix the tumbler, I would replace the electrical switch WYAIT. It's a fairly cheap part and the old one will leave you high and dry if it starts to fail later.
If you are going in to replace or fix the tumbler, I would replace the electrical switch WYAIT. It's a fairly cheap part and the old one will leave you high and dry if it starts to fail later.
#7
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The way to tell (other than the stamping of a triangle with a "P" in the middle) is the Porsche switch casing is cast metal and the aftermarket casing is stamped metal. At first glance the aftermarket version actually looks nicer.. but as usual looks can be deceiving.
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#8
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..AND where ever you get the new switch make sure it is genuine Porsche only! There is a commonly sold aftermarket version that typically fails right out of the box. We got a few by accident from one supplier and brand new I could not turn the switch without breaking it.
The way to tell (other than the stamping of a triangle with a "P" in the middle) is the Porsche switch casing is cast metal and the aftermarket casing is stamped metal. At first glance the aftermarket version actually looks nicer.. but as usual looks can be deceiving.
The way to tell (other than the stamping of a triangle with a "P" in the middle) is the Porsche switch casing is cast metal and the aftermarket casing is stamped metal. At first glance the aftermarket version actually looks nicer.. but as usual looks can be deceiving.
#9
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BTW, it looks like Mark Anderson has the pin for the ignition tumbler for $1.00
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...095%20007%2000
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...095%20007%2000